Starter Battery Recommendation

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SimonFa

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I'm thinking of fitting a starter battery following a scare with a duff house battery last year. Looking at the schematics it appears straight forward as starter motor is wired to the battery selector switch and the battery charger has a connection for a starter battery.

So as I see it all I need is a decent starter battery for a Volvo 2020 and wondered if anyone had a recommendation.

Thanks in advance,

Simon

PS If I've missed anything I'd appreciate a tip off :)
 
Any small battery for a small diesel car will do. They usually have a capacity of around 50-60AH. Actual choice will depend on space available and type/location of terminals.

Would make sense while you are fitting it to create two separate backs, independently switched and a VSR to ensure both banks are charged automatically by the alternator, with preference to the start battery.
 
I assume there's no significant space limitations so an ordinary lead acid starter battery will do. In which case just find a good local autofactors (likely to be located on an industrial estate rather than the High St) and buy one there. Don't need to spend ridiculous amounts - I suspect many are re-branded anyway.

A 55Ah starter battery has worked fine for my 4-cyl Yanmar for 9 years now and I expect to squeeze a few more years out of it yet. It cost £52, IIRC, so about £6p.a. so far. Engine has started first time every time except when there have been separate fuel supply issues - can't blame the battery for that.
 
Looking to also replace a duff lead acid starter battery. Had lasted 16 years.
Is lead acid or gel better and what about maintenance free batteries?
 
Would agree with Tranona, It is the way I went 15 years ago. I also have a switching system to allow the house battery to start the engine if the engine battery fails. My house battery is a dual purpose type which has adequate cranking amps for the starter.

Regards
David MH
 
stephen_h said:
Looking to also replace a duff lead acid starter battery. Had lasted 16 years.
Is lead acid or gel better and what about maintenance free batteries?
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For a dedicated starter battery lead acid is fine. However if you want the ultimate in small size and long life then a Red Flash AGM is the one - at more than twice the price. However if you keep your lead acid fully charged it will last a long time - very little stress on it and low cycling.
 
Tranona said:
For a dedicated starter battery lead acid is fine. However if you want the ultimate in small size and long life then a Red Flash AGM is the one - at more than twice the price. However if you keep your lead acid fully charged it will last a long time - very little stress on it and low cycling.
Click to expand...

Ouch ! that is expensive :ambivalence:
 
Tranona said:
Any small battery for a small diesel car will do. They usually have a capacity of around 50-60AH. Actual choice will depend on space available and type/location of terminals.

Would make sense while you are fitting it to create two separate backs, independently switched and a VSR to ensure both banks are charged automatically by the alternator, with preference to the start battery.
Click to expand...

The charger provides the facility for separate banks and I assume ensures the starter gets priority, but its not clear.
 
stephen_h said:
Ouch ! that is expensive :ambivalence:
Click to expand...

Yes, but they are good and they are small so you can put them most places - even upside down if you feel in the mood. In my boat it meant I could have all three batteries as house batteries (rather than 2+1) and have a Red Flash for starting the engine.

Also worth thinking about - as you are altering the wiring anyway - is to wire in the necessary wiring/plug/socket for one of these new-fangled Lithium battery packs that are the size of a stamp but will start anything (I exagerate, but only a bit) and I think they use Anderson connectors. These are small enough to keep handy on a boat for charging via USB lots of phones etc but are possibly able to save the day if all else fails.
 
SimonFa said:
I'm thinking of fitting a starter battery following a scare with a duff house battery last year. Looking at the schematics it appears straight forward as starter motor is wired to the battery selector switch and the battery charger has a connection for a starter battery.

So as I see it all I need is a decent starter battery for a Volvo 2020 and wondered if anyone had a recommendation.

Thanks in advance,

Simon

PS If I've missed anything I'd appreciate a tip off :)
Click to expand...

I think you will find that a 70Ah battery is specified in the tech spec section of your owners manual

As suggested any car starter battery of this size will be suitable. You will find they have a CCA rating, which is the important factor, of around 600 or so amps

Varta is a good make of battery and in my recent experience Yuasa are very good but a little more expensive. The alternative of course is to opt for the suppliers "own brand"

Be sure to check physical dimensions and terminal type and layout on a comprehensive battery site such as Tayna or Battery Megastore.

If you are tempted by the idea of a Red Flash battery then a Red Flash 1200 ( 550 CCA) will be suitable http://www.dmstech.co.uk/downloads/DMS_data_redflash_highrate_web.pdf
( Be aware that some suppliers confuse max discharge current, which Red Flash also quote, with CCA and could lead you to buying a battery which is too small)
 
stephen_h said:
Ouch ! that is expensive :ambivalence:
Click to expand...

People tend to use Red Flash batteries when they don't have enough space or when they've decided to use the existing space to expand the domestic bank. Compared to major surgery around the battery compartment they're cheap.
 
KellysEye said:
Starter bateries are called Cold Cranking batteries and the latest ones are Calcium. I bought one for a car at Halfords: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/bu...year-guarantee-hcb063-calcium-12v-car-battery

House batteries should be deep cycle such asTrojan
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Starter batteries are called starter batteries, because they are batteries for starting.

Persistently posting that everyone must have deep cycle Trojans is pure and utter nonsense. Many of the small boats we discuss on these forums won't have room for a bank of Trojans for a start and for all of the casual sailors on here leisure batteries work perfectly fine.
 
SimonFa said:
The charger provides the facility for separate banks and I assume ensures the starter gets priority, but its not clear.
Click to expand...

I doubt the engine battery gets priority, but then it doesn't need to anyway. What make/model is the charger ?

Your alternator will not be able to charge both batteries, without some form of split charging/vsr arrangement. I take it you have a 1-2-both switch ?
 
PaulRainbow said:
I doubt the engine battery gets priority, but then it doesn't need to anyway. What make/model is the charger ?

Your alternator will not be able to charge both batteries, without some form of split charging/vsr arrangement. I take it you have a 1-2-both switch ?
Click to expand...

Its a Sterling Pro Charge 1230 CED and yes the switch is 1-2-1both. According to the schematics the starter motor is connected to the 'F' terminal and I assume I just need to move that to the starter battery, which sounds simpler than it will turn out to be, no doubt. I'm going down to the boat tomorrow to change the oil and scope out the work so I'll find out then.
 
SimonFa said:
Its a Sterling Pro Charge 1230 CED and yes the switch is 1-2-1both. According to the schematics the starter motor is connected to the 'F' terminal and I assume I just need to move that to the starter battery, which sounds simpler than it will turn out to be, no doubt. I'm going down to the boat tomorrow to change the oil and scope out the work so I'll find out then.
Click to expand...

The engine battery goes to the terminal closest to the negative, the domestic battery next to that and the 3rd terminal should be bridged to the domestic connection, so all outputs are used.

The alternator will only charge the battery that is selected, so there is still some scope for having a flat battery. I suggest fitting a VSR to prevent this, a Victron Cyrix would fit the bill and is simple to connect, they even do one with the wiring and stuff as a kit.

I'd also suggest that you consider changing the 1-2-both switch for independent switching to keep the banks totally separate. Plenty of threads on here about that one.

EDIT : Standard lead acid battery is more than adequate for your needs, sealed is fine. Don't waste money on AGM for this installation.
 
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