Start-run-stop switch

G

Graham_Wright

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Joined
30 Dec 2002
Messages
8,192
Location
Gloucestershire
www.mastaclimba.com
I have been unable to find an engine control switch with five positions, three of them biased;-

1. Stop, biased off (solenoid)
2. Off
3. Run
4. Pre-heat, biased off
5. Start biased off.

The electrics are easy and are relay-buffered but I am trying to avoid the mechanics which are messy.

Anyone help please?
 
Sounds like many Volvo switches.. at least for engines that have a stop solenoid
( MD2010 series for example) But I guess at €180 youd not be too keen.

Tried Furneaux Riddall ?

Or even ASAP supplies

.
 
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I had one of those switches but the "Stop" switch wasn't biased off.
Consequently people left it in the "Stop" position which burnt out the stop solenoid.
A very expensive mistake so I switched to a seperate stop switch.
The original switch came off a Nanni panel.
 
If you can't find the right key switch, you could always wire "stop", "start" and "heat" as separate buttons, with a simple on/off keyswitch.

Pete
 
prv said:
If you can't find the right key switch, you could always wire "stop", "start" and "heat" as separate buttons, with a simple on/off keyswitch.

Pete
Click to expand...

Lots of boats don't even have a key anymore.
Just a power on switch to the panel and then separate switches as described by 'prv' above.
 
Talulah said:
Lots of boats don't even have a key anymore.
Just a power on switch to the panel and then separate switches as described by 'prv' above.
Click to expand...

That's where I started and with biased switches, it's easy and (reasonably) foolproof.

However, it would be nice to give the instruction "To start the engine, turn the switch progressively clockwise and release it when the engine starts. To stop the engine, turn the switch anticlockwise until the engine stops and then release it".

ASAP almost gets there but the "stop" position (actually AUX) is not biased and results in the burnt out solenoid (as mentioned).

I knocked up a multi-layer spring biased cam system but it looks horribly over the top!
 
Graham_Wright said:
That's where I started and with biased switches, it's easy and (reasonably) foolproof.

However, it would be nice to give the instruction "To start the engine, turn the switch progressively clockwise and release it when the engine starts. To stop the engine, turn the switch anticlockwise until the engine stops and then release it".

ASAP almost gets there but the "stop" position (actually AUX) is not biased and results in the burnt out solenoid (as mentioned).

I knocked up a multi-layer spring biased cam system but it looks horribly over the top!
Click to expand...

The only spring loaded "Stop" one I've come across is the Volvo one that VicS mentioned.
 
Talulah said:
Lots of boats don't even have a key anymore.
Just a power on switch to the panel and then separate switches as described by 'prv' above.
Click to expand...

It's exactly what I have myself. Big chunky rotary switch labelled "Panel on/off", then a button labelled "Start", and a manual pull for stop. Plus a spring-loaded toggle switch to shut the buzzer up, which you can hold with one finger while turning the switch and pressing start.

The old Yanmar key-switch could be turned with any flat piece of metal - my dad didn't even notice that he'd used his front door key in it once - and it's in the locked cabin anyway.

Pete
 
Talulah said:
I had one of those switches but the "Stop" switch wasn't biased off.
Consequently people left it in the "Stop" position which burnt out the stop solenoid.
A very expensive mistake so I switched to a seperate stop switch.
The original switch came off a Nanni panel.
Click to expand...

Current boat has a Nanni, 4.150, with what sounds like that switch. The way that gets around the 'burn out' problem is to use a timed relay - Part Nos. Denso 061700-3770 or Kubota T0070-31410. They are £60 or 70 squid, mine burnt out through being installed inverted and having water dripping on it!

Could you build a timer circuit to the stop relay/solenoid ?
 
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I appreciate that the OP would like to replace like with like, but at lower cost, but ... perhaps a neater alternative would be to use a four position key switch off/run/pre-heat/start and separate the stop solenoid function to a press to make switch. This is the set-up on my Sole panel and it is simple to understand as both the heat and start positions are biased back to the run position. When my switch fell apart I replaced it with a Chinese copy of the Lucas style switch as used on tractors etc - £10 - £20 on ebay "diesel ignition switch". There is a five position equivalent in the same price range, but the stop position is not biased to off.

Rob.
 
rob2 said:
I appreciate that the OP would like to replace like with like, but at lower cost, but ... perhaps a neater alternative would be to use a four position key switch off/run/pre-heat/start and separate the stop solenoid function to a press to make switch. This is the set-up on my Sole panel and it is simple to understand as both the heat and start positions are biased back to the run position. When my switch fell apart I replaced it with a Chinese copy of the Lucas style switch as used on tractors etc - £10 - £20 on ebay "diesel ignition switch". There is a five position equivalent in the same price range, but the stop position is not biased to off.

Rob.
Click to expand...

I have the five position key switch but because the stop isn't sprung have disconnected it (due to costly burn out of stop solenoid) and replaced the stop part with a separate press to make switch as per your suggestion above.

Whilst the switch has a position for "pre-heat" there is no pre-heat on the engine and despite telling people this a lot continue to hold the key in this position for a few seconds.
 
My elderly vetus has three push to make buttons - start, heat and stop. No forgetting keys and simplicity itself to explain to others.
 
I've also suffered the burnt-out stop solenoid ..... It seems more common than I thought!. (An alarm should have sounded when engine stopped and oil pressure dropped .... but notoriously on a BUKH panel it failed to do so).

I now have a heavy duty pressswitch in series with the original stop position on the keyswitch. Hopefully now both switches won't fail simultaneously!
 
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