standing rigging replacment

LoneHort

LoneHort

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Hi folks,

What is the forums thinking on replacing my open-bodied turnbuckles, toggle forks etc. which seem fine visually when doing a re-rig of the standing rigging?

Taking advantage of the Jimmygreene 20% November discount on standing rigging and the chap there is advising I replace the turnbuckles , toggle forks etc. also saying stuff like " no point in just replacing the wire and swaged fittings and then using old turnbuckles" Taking that to the nth degree would also mean replacing the mast shroud attachments and chainplates on the boat ......
Interested in hearing what other think and have done?
Thanks
 
If they are chromed bronze they should last longer than the shrouds and stays. It does seem to be a bit of a grey area though. Likewise chainplates and tangs will last through several re-rigs, but probably not the whole lifespan of the boat.
 
It is the ss wire that seems to have the finite life expectancy. I have never heard of turnscrews forks etc failing although you should check them for cracks. My turnscrews lasted for 35 years before I replaced them though in bronze body they seem perfect. Most other hardware in the load circuit is over sized compared to the wire itself. So if it was me I would just replace the wire and swages. ol'will
 
I am right now going through the same process, so can sympathise...
New to me boat came with standing rigging of unknown age, and during a rig inspection 10 days ago, I discovered the forestay was unravelled due to problems with the headsail furler top swivel.

I had planned on replacing the standing rigging next summer anyway, but have had to pull the time frame in. New furler system, all new swaged rigging wires.... and all the turnbuckles. It caused me a couple of 'waking up in the middle of the night moments' worrying should I just replace the wires due to the cost, and I can't see anything obviously wrong with the turnbuckles, but they look 'old', and probably original to the build in 1979, so 40 years old.

I also found one of me spreaders brackets on the mast to be loose; it will need to be re-riveted.

So, the bullet has been bitten and the whole lot ordered (using the Jimmy Green 20% off deal).

If anything, the peace of mind will be nice!
 
I am thinking of doing mine next year. Currently my Moody 44 has the bronze chrome turn buckles i note that you can have them replaced with stainless. Would this be better?
Also what sort of prices are we talking about im quite happy to DIY.
Maurice
 
MAURICE said:
Also what sort of prices are we talking about im quite happy to DIY.
Click to expand...

Prices are easily available from e.g. Jimmy Green or ZSpars. But make absolutely certain that you have measured correctly before ordering anything.
If getting new shrouds/stays made up with swaged fittings, the usual practice is to send away the old ones and the rigging company will make up the new ones to the same length.
 
Maybe its time someone told my 1975 boat that its standing rigging needs replacement !!

I've had the boat for 20+yrs and only replaced one stay when it was damaged ... even my halyards and sheets are still same ...

Yep - I like living on the 'edge' !!
 
I had to replace my standing rigging a couple of years ago at the insistence of the insurance company. I had the mast lowered at lift out, removed all the rigging and had them all replaced at a local yard. They recommended toggled bottle screws to replace stainless bottle screws with separate toggles. All by StaLok. They did a good job and on further inspection the original stainless bottle screws were not in good condition and went to the local scrap yard.
 
Refueler said:
Maybe its time someone told my 1975 boat that its standing rigging needs replacement !!

I've had the boat for 20+yrs and only replaced one stay when it was damaged ... even my halyards and sheets are still same ...

Yep - I like living on the 'edge' !!
Click to expand...

Next you'll be telling us you risk your life by using a CQR anchor! :D
 
Refueler said:
Absolutely ... actually mines a Plough anchor (CQR is a brand name) ... with FULL chain rode ....
Click to expand...

Man, you're walking with death.

Haven't you seen all the wrecked yachts littering our coasts that had plough anchors and rigging more than 10 years old?

I know I'm living on borrowed time.

:D
 
Poignard said:
Man, you're walking with death.

Haven't you seen all the wrecked yachts littering our coasts that had plough anchors and rigging more than 10 years old?

I know I'm living on borrowed time.

:D
Click to expand...

I know its terrible ..... actually just checked ... mines a Holdfast Plough anchor. I am really worried and can hardly close my eyes to sleep when I am riding to it and a long chain rode.
 
LoneHort said:
Hi folks,

What is the forums thinking on replacing my open-bodied turnbuckles, toggle forks etc. which seem fine visually when doing a re-rig of the standing rigging?

Taking advantage of the Jimmygreene 20% November discount on standing rigging and the chap there is advising I replace the turnbuckles , toggle forks etc. also saying stuff like " no point in just replacing the wire and swaged fittings and then using old turnbuckles" Taking that to the nth degree would also mean replacing the mast shroud attachments and chainplates on the boat ......
Interested in hearing what other think and have done?
Thanks
Click to expand...

nth/degree means you should replace the boat every 5 Years.
 
I know this will blow in the face of so many but I base this on observation, professional Ships Officer for too many years, Marine Surveyor and looking at boats all my life.

If you are a racing or serious hard pushing guy with your boat - then of course prudence says to replace before disaster strikes. As to how many years you consider prudent is debatable.
Racing can mean frequent changes in one season ! Or maybe once at start of season.
Hard constant cruising could mean every few years.
A weekender boat - which lets be honest most are ... I think 5 years is playing VERY VERY safe and I think can be easily pushed to longer ... 10 years maybe.
Given that many boats are in fact Marina Queens .... surely even 10 years start to look unnecessary ??

My boat is not used enough I have to say even though its at bottom of my garden in private channel. This being the case - I have no concern to let her go another 10yrs on top of the 40 odd already clocked up.
 
Close inspection of the non wire gear will tell its own story I believe. You should use a magnifying glass on all bearing surfaces.

Replacing the wire and with new swaged on fittings is the norm; 15 years under normal conditions seems the industry average and will not deter an insurance company. Over 20 years without replacement is probably ok too but in the event of any failure, you're on your own with the insurer. With my rig, the fore stay takes all the load; if it fails it all comes crashing, not so the other stays. I replace my fore stay every `10 years.

One factor I urge is that wear will be the greater if the gear has run slack or is left loosened for the off season etc. Gear that is taut should suffer a lot less surface to surface wear.

Otherwise, if the turnbuckles are really tough to unscrew they may be galling - the threaded surfaces are not interfacing as they should. Best to replace.

PWG
 
peter gibbs said:
Close inspection of the non wire gear will tell its own story I believe. You should use a magnifying glass on all bearing surfaces.

Replacing the wire and with new swaged on fittings is the norm; 15 years under normal conditions seems the industry average and will not deter an insurance company. Over 20 years without replacement is probably ok too but in the event of any failure, you're on your own with the insurer. With my rig, the fore stay takes all the load; if it fails it all comes crashing, not so the other stays. I replace my fore stay every `10 years.

One factor I urge is that wear will be the greater if the gear has run slack or is left loosened for the off season etc. Gear that is taut should suffer a lot less surface to surface wear.

Otherwise, if the turnbuckles are really tough to unscrew they may be galling - the threaded surfaces are not interfacing as they should. Best to replace.

PWG
Click to expand...

That seems like a sensible, pragmatic outlook.
 
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