Standing rigging dressing

[stephenh]

Untreated galvanised steel wire - just starting to rust.

I believe the 'annual' dressing should be 3 parts boiled linseed to 1 part varnish ( have I got this right ?)

However in the dim and distant past I seem to remember using grease dissolved in petrol to be applied as a one off before the varnish dressing is started.

Can someone put me right - I'm not too sure of the technique or proportions for either.

many thanks

Stephen

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[Mirelle]

The "grease in petrol" business, which I also remember, was based on the theory that the petrol would carry the grease into the heart of the wire, then evaporate.

Probably twaddle, and in any case I never liked messing about with open containers of petrol. I think it was aimed at flexible galvanised wire, 6 or 7 x 19 rather than 6 x7 or 7x7 construction, and this stuff no longer exists in yacht sizes having been replaced by flexible s/s for all the obvious reasons.

Like you I use 3 parts boiled oil to 1 part last year's varnish (the varnish is there because of the driers, really) and it seems to do fine. Worth wiping down the wire with a rag soaked in paraffin (or white spirit, for the affluent) before you start.

<hr width=100% size=1>Que scais-je?

 

[Peterduck]

I used a Shell product called Ensis Fluid. This is basically developed for mothballing machinery, ships, and so on. There are several grades, ranging from a black tarry liquid to an almost clear one. The latter is the one whichI used, grade SDC [which I think stands for Soft Drying Compound]. It is quite thin when applied by brush, and dries to a thin, but very constant layer of soft grease. It is particularly good at penetrating to the core of wire rope. I had to buy a 20 litre drum which cost about $1.00 per litre. We are talking industrial prices here, not chandler's prices. The heavier grades are more durable against the weather than the lighter ones.
Another product which I have used is bituminous emulsion. This is used by road surfacing contractors by the ton, sprayed upon new gravel before it is sealed with asphalt. It gives the asphalt a key top the gravel. It is also very thin, penetrates well, and dries to a soft bitumen film. Obviously, the outside needs cleaning off before the crew step aboard. It is also very cheap [take your own can].
Peter.

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[Peterduck]

I used a Shell product called Ensis Fluid. This is basically developed for mothballing machinery, ships, and so on. There are several grades, ranging from a black tarry liquid to an almost clear one. The latter is the one whichI used, grade SDC [which I think stands for Soft Drying Compound]. It is quite thin when applied by brush, and dries to a thin, but very constant layer of soft grease. It is particularly good at penetrating to the core of wire rope. I had to buy a 20 litre drum which cost about $1.00 per litre. We are talking industrial prices here, not chandler's prices. The heavier grades are more durable against the weather than the lighter ones.
Another product which I have used is bituminous emulsion. This is used by road surfacing contractors by the ton, sprayed upon new gravel before it is sealed with asphalt. It gives the asphalt a key top the gravel. It is also very thin, penetrates well, and dries to a soft bitumen film. Obviously, the outside needs cleaning off before the crew step aboard. It is also very cheap [take your own can].
Peter.

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[ongolo]

Peter,

I got an answer to a question I did not ask.

Thanks Peter

regards ongolo

Ps.:
As far as S.Steel is concerned, being a hobby blacksmith, hobby tool makes, hobby gunsmith and have a proper engineering background, to me Stainless Steel is the most miserable of all materials having only one advantage, it does not rust normally.

Everything else about it is wrong. As a matter of fact, living in one of the two known most corrosive places in the world, even 316 rusts here.



<hr width=100% size=1>1000 dream about it, 100 talk about it, 10 start and 1 completes it

 

[Gordonmc]

Being a simple soul I used waxoyl on my newly rebuilt galv. 6mm rigging. I warmed up a bucketful of the stuff and dipped the wire as the mast was going up. It is basically wax suspended in white spirit and the warming thins it for penetration.
It will come off eventually, but it can be topped up with a rag soaked in the stuff.
Also good for engine/bilge electrics.

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[ongolo]

Hi Gordonmc, I am about to put up new galvanized riging. This waxoyl, who makes the stuff? Name does not ring a bell. What is it normally used for?

Peter, I got a sample of this bitumenous emulsion. The contractor did not want to sell or give it to me, for he says it is not suitable, got some in the end.

Went to all petrol companies to check out prices and substances, phoned half the world flat, and every time the fools want to sell me grease that is used on winches.

Found a Mobil product, is grease like but does no dissolve, so it is useless for poor penetration. I shall experiment over the next two days with bitum.emulsion.

Ensis fluid has limited shelf life, the amount to buy and what I am going to use does not balance. also the price asked here is US$6,-/litre.

Still dont know what to do, I have also stockholm tar, but takes ages to dry, and this japan drier stuff mentioned in rigging books means nothing to me.

regards ongolo


<hr width=100% size=1>1000 dream about it, 100 talk about it, 10 start and 1 completes it

 

[Gordonmc]

Waxoyl is made by the same firm that produces Hammerite paint... used to be Finnigans, but that may have changed. There is a website... www.waxoyl.com.
It is a suspension of wax in white spirit or something similar. It is made for rustproofing... I got to know it well restoring classic cars. Its main plus is that when warmed it can be sprayed with an applicator wand into all sorts of voids and nooks and it is self-repairing. Very good for box sections (Land Rover chassis members) and double-skin structures. It dries waxy and can be cleaned off with more waxoyl or white spirit. Preserves plastics and rubber extrusions.
Obtainable here at most auto parts shops.

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[Peterduck]

As you have stockholm Tar, Ongolo, use this with equal parts of boiled linseed oil and turpentine to form the old square-rigger's "slush". This is what they used to dress their rigging with. When I made some up I added Terebine to the mix too. Terebine is the same beast as japan driers. It evidently reacts with the linseed oil to dry the whole concoction off. This concoction penetrates well.
Peter.

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