Stainless steel adhesive

[bluerm166]

There are various special types available which promise a strong bond.
My duty is to bond a light 25 mm s/s sprayhood track to a 40mm wide 2mm thick stainless flat because the track guage is too thin to accept any substantial countersink,so fixing screws inevitably foul the slider.
The flat will allow larger screws outside the track zone which on a flat grp surface are much more likely to stay put.
The grab rail on the back of the hood means there can be considerable sideways force which has loosened the previous screws.
I suppose that welding or brazing / might also be possible .
But has anyone else had good success with adhesive sold for stainless ?

 

[Pete7]

I think that is going to need welding or failure at night in a storm inevitable. For the price of a few dabs of weld you will sleep better.

 

[philwebb]

Hi bluerm, on that sort of metal thickness spot welding would be a could bet. I’ve only done it on thin steel myself, but can‘t see why it shouldn’t work on stainles.

 

[Graham_Wright]

Goop?
No idea if it's any good but I've just bought some for a stainless to rubber application.

 

[V1701]

I'd be amazed if CT1/OB1 failed because by the sounds of it you have a good amount of surface area to work with. I'd bond both the track and the flat using that, screws as well if you want for the flat...

 

[coopec]

Not sure I understand the problem but maybe pop-rivets are the way to go? No?

 

[Boater Sam]

CT1 bonds the inside bracing into car bonnet and boot panels and are almost impossible to separate.

 

[westernman]

Ask these guys what glue they used Royal Navy orders investigation into nuclear submarine ‘repaired with glue’

 

[bluerm166]

Thank you all .No takers for specialist s/s glue then.
This shows the limitations.
Yes I can weld it,if I find a friendly welder but I wouldn't want any distortion.
Possible to make a tradional rivet from a clevis pin ( a very thin head) .
Yes conceiveably a pop rivet + washer would do it if the 'bulged underside' projection is housed in the
former screw hole which will be on the same centre.I will be bedding the flat anyway in terms of w/proofing which is not sustainable at present.
Loathe to buy a heavier track as this still only 25 wide and fixed only on the centreline.
Want to keep the track as without it the hood, when laid down,lies on top of all the clutches which if any levers are up is a real hazard to the hood windows and of course makes them inaccessible.

 

[Poignard]

CT1

 

[Graham_Wright]

Can you not recess the slider to clear heads?

 

[KompetentKrew]

I may not be able to help but you've now got me very curious, @bluerm166.

I can't visualise the kind of stainless sprayhood track you mean - do you have a link to the site you obtained it from, or any pics please?

I would be thoroughly trying to find a way to secure it using the holes in the track as, to my mind, that is clearly the most elegant and "correct" way.

 

[bluerm166]

for the curious :
It's Baseline light duty track 2602 which has a very thin gauge metal base with negligible ability to countersink.Had there been a drawing available I would have scrutinised it and probably worried about the gauge.
Baseline Marine Products Ltd - Canopy Track Systems
The tracks are 300mm long -sufficient for the hood to fold down in front of the clutches ,also leaving them usable -particularly the lift- keel line.
When the hood is up the normal pivot block is slid to the back of the track and the hood held by it's straps although each also has a screw clamp.
The slider is also of thin gauge s/s so not readily grooved to pass a screwhead.
Particular issues are the sideways load on the fixing - the tendency of the arch (not a full semi circle) to spread when any load is applied ,the relatively thin grp which has a veneered panel inside so not a candidate for bolts,and the design of the track which allows little clearance to any screw heads,so the small screws remain subject to being 'worked' and loosened.
The project has saved the hood from damage and freed the clutches so has worked for several years.
A flanged track with fixing on both edges ( like a bookcase shelving upright for panelling ) would be ideal so as we are where we are I suppose I am intending to create that .
I have accepted that I should no longer swing on the top of the arch as I enter the cabin but even so would like to improve matters.

As Kennedy said, ....... we do these things because they are hard........ ( and sometimes because we are foolish ).

 

[Poignard]

Is there clearance for the shallow head of a pop-rivet?

 

[Fr J Hackett]

I had a similar arrangement admittedly it is screwed into wood but there was no problem of the slider passing over the small countersunk screw heads

 

[Thistle]

It's Baseline light duty track 2602

What is it made of? Reading from your link "Car and track made from annodised aluminium. [...] 304 stainless steel track." If it's an anodised aluminium track you will have to guard against corrosion if it is in contact with steel. Perhaps a problem best solved before buying the bits?

 

[bluerm166]

Yes Poignard ,I will try a pop rivet and see if the bulb can be accommodated in the previously used screw hole.The flat has to lie flat and the bedding can't really be left thick.
I see your similar usage Fr J .Your frame there though has 'vertical' legs rather than a lower partial arch with a grab rail ,that wants to spread.It's catch 22.If the small screws would stay put the slider would clear them.Also you can almost certainly deploy a longer screw.If I introduced a batten with thickness rather than the flat the canvas would be overstrained on its fixing studs .My fixing is also into the side of the cabin top and inclined away rather than perpendicular to the thrust so rotation is encouraged.Accepted that if the thrust was square or was negligible because the arch was a true semi circle things would be easier.
I will do some development work in the shed with some similar material - using s/s pop rivets or an old fashioned rivet made from a clevis pin.If it will spread sufficiently without excess- excess force and without undue marking of the piece it may work .The attraction is the well formed thin head and I have odd spares.
Thanks Thistle but 2602 is all stainless .

 

[Alex_Blackwood]

Yes Poignard ,I will try a pop rivet and see if the bulb can be accommodated in the previously used screw hole.The flat has to lie flat and the bedding can't really be left thick.
I see your similar usage Fr J .Your frame there though has 'vertical' legs rather than a lower partial arch with a grab rail ,that wants to spread.It's catch 22.If the small screws would stay put the slider would clear them.Also you can almost certainly deploy a longer screw.If I introduced a batten with thickness rather than the flat the canvas would be overstrained on its fixing studs .My fixing is also into the side of the cabin top and inclined away rather than perpendicular to the thrust so rotation is encouraged.Accepted that if the thrust was square or was negligible because the arch was a true semi circle things would be easier.
I will do some development work in the shed with some similar material - using s/s pop rivets or an old fashioned rivet made from a clevis pin.If it will spread sufficiently without excess- excess force and without undue marking of the piece it may work .
Thanks Thistle but 2602 is all stainless .

Have you looked at flange rivets? I can't post A Link on this device but a Google search should find them. S/S are available.

 

[penfold]

If adhesive is good enough to bond the track to the SS bar it's good enough to bond directly onto the GRP. I'd prefer welding, it's a pretty straightforward TIG job, the main risk is the bar distorting and the flanges bending upward but perhaps ask the welder for their opinion; it may be advisable to go up to 3mm bar to reduce this risk.

 

[PCUK]

Not sure I understand the problem but maybe pop-rivets are the way to go? No?

That's what I was thinking.