ST60 wind instrument query

Plevier

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I wonder if someone can shed light on the behaviour of my ST60 wind dial?
It used to show about the same on both tacks but then it drifted so that close hauled on one tack was showing 30 deg (apparent) and 60 on the other. Now it's gone further and is nearer to 0 and 70!
However if I go into calibration mode and check the straight ahead position (see stages 3 and 4 in the instructions below) it is correct. (Stage 4 says "sail directly into the wind" I find the engine helps at this point:))

I am confused about stage 2 in the instructions below - making two complete slow circles. It doesn't read as though you need to be in calibration mode for that. Does it mean it is supposed to be done every time the instrument has been disconnected, i.e. every time I take the boat out, or is it just when it's brand new?

BTW it's a normal unit not a Rotavecta.

Thanks.

Extract from Raymarine instructions:

Linearizing and aligning the wind transducer
This procedure ensures that the sensors in the windvane transducer are correctly
calibrated to record rotation of the windvane, then compensates for any small
errors which may exist in the alignment of the wind transducer.
To do this:
1. Power-up the ST60 Wind instrument.
2. Slowly turn the vessel through two complete circles. This procedure automatically linearizes the windvane. A successful linearization is indicated by the digital display flashing and the buzzer sounding three beeps.
3. Hold down the disp and true/app keys for approximately 2 seconds to enter
User calibration then use the disp key to select the wind angle screen (see the
User calibration flow diagram).
4. Sail directly into the wind and adjust the analog pointer to zero, using the
vmg and tack keys. If you are unable to achieve the required degree of accuracy due to sea conditions, and errors become apparent during subsequent
tack operations, repeat this procedure to achieve alignment accuracy
 

FWB

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Hi I have had similar problems in the past with my ST60 Wind system.
You only need to do the circling bit in order to set up then go to calibrate to align the transducer. This only needs to be done once.
It's a simple system, transducer / cable / instrument head.
In my case the transducer was at fault and caused the problem you describe. The old type is rather angled the new ones are quite bulbous and are much better. I had a later failure and this was eventually traced to the cable, which I replaced.
It is much cheaper to replace the entire system than getting individual bits. I found this out to my cost! In the end you will have a better system and if the instrument head is ok you can use it as a repeater.
If you do replace the whole system then it is important to also replace the cable. The second failure I had was due to corrosion in the cable.
 
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earlybird

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The 360 deg. procedure should only need to be done once. However, if you go to Raymarine Support FAQ's and search for ST60 wind calibration, answer ID69 should come up. This says that the 360 deg. turns should be done in calibration mode, which seems at variance with the manual.
This answer also suggests other possibilities for misalignment.
 

Cantata

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Had some similar inexplicable problems with mine this year. As well as its varying inaccuracy, in my case it would not complete the linearisation, or anyway it didn't beep to say it had.
I replaced the sender for the windvane eventually, this cured it. I had acquired a sender unit somewhere (can't recall where) a while ago for forty quid, simple to replace, just 4 wires to solder.
 

Plevier

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Thank you, will have a play next weekend.
Raymarine's instructions are contradictory at points.
I might try restoring to ex factory default settings and starting again.
 

Plevier

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If you don't have to be in calibration mode for the two circles linearisation exercise to take effect, presumably it must continue to respond to it.
If so, I wonder if it confuses the system that every time I leave my mooring, the first thing I have to do is a 180 degree turn going astern, and always the same way? Having then gone out to sail, I'm not in the habit of doing slow 360 degree circles (although it can happen!)
 

Cantata

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If you don't have to be in calibration mode for the two circles linearisation exercise to take effect, presumably it must continue to respond to it.
If so, I wonder if it confuses the system that every time I leave my mooring, the first thing I have to do is a 180 degree turn going astern, and always the same way? Having then gone out to sail, I'm not in the habit of doing slow 360 degree circles (although it can happen!)
Turning the 2 slow circles does not put the system into Calibration mode, as I understand it. The manoeuvre 'linearises' the masthead transducer, signalling to you that it has successfully done that by beeping at you, and you then still have to press buttons to put the instrument head itself into Calibration mode. So I think the answer to your concern is 'no'.
 

blenkinsop

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replacing bearings in wind transducer

Following guidance on earlier threads, I have been trying to replace the bearings in the transducer. Removing the old bearings seems to carry high risk of damage to PCB etc and/or partial destruction of the plastic housing.
There was a link to someone who would do such repairs on eBay mentioned in earlier threads but his eBay page seems to have disappeared. Does anyone who has used his service have an alternative contact detail?
 

Billjratt

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Are the bearings knackered?
Mine were a bit crunchie but a wash out with WD40 or W85 and then saturation with light oil, 3-in-1 or slightly heavier, did the trick two or three seasons ago (still going strong).
You can feel when they're happy if you spin the shaft with your fingers.
 

BlueChip

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Following guidance on earlier threads, I have been trying to replace the bearings in the transducer. Removing the old bearings seems to carry high risk of damage to PCB etc and/or partial destruction of the plastic housing.
There was a link to someone who would do such repairs on eBay mentioned in earlier threads but his eBay page seems to have disappeared. Does anyone who has used his service have an alternative contact detail?

Its really easy to repair these, there is not really any possibility of damaging the pcb as its a long way from the bearing.
Just trim away the plastic until you can ease the old bearing out and then replace and fix the new bearing(s) in place with a dollop of epoxy or silicone.
This isnt the neatest job I've ever done but you can see the idea here - www.montecala.com/st50repair.jpg
 

Cantata

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Following guidance on earlier threads, I have been trying to replace the bearings in the transducer. Removing the old bearings seems to carry high risk of damage to PCB etc and/or partial destruction of the plastic housing.
There was a link to someone who would do such repairs on eBay mentioned in earlier threads but his eBay page seems to have disappeared. Does anyone who has used his service have an alternative contact detail?
If you like I could send you some notes I wrote about doing this job after doing it myself. Success not guaranteed whatsoever of course but it worked for me. PM me an email address if you want a copy.
 

Ricd

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I wonder if someone can shed light on the behaviour of my ST60 wind dial?
It used to show about the same on both tacks but then it drifted so that close hauled on one tack was showing 30 deg (apparent) and 60 on the other. Now it's gone further and is nearer to 0 and 70!

y

I have had a similar problem this season. Instrument keeps loosing itself. I have repeated linearisation and calibration steps, everything looks ok for a time then it looses the plot again...sometimes indicating + or - up to 90 degs off reality. My problem is is it the transducer up top, is it the cable, is it the cable connection or is it the instrument head that's at fault?:confused:
 

blenkinsop

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transducer bearings

thanks for all the advice. Have now decided to put it back as after WD40 and 3in1 it seems a lot better and hopefully will last for a while.
 

Plevier

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I have had a similar problem this season. Instrument keeps loosing itself. I have repeated linearisation and calibration steps, everything looks ok for a time then it looses the plot again...sometimes indicating + or - up to 90 degs off reality. My problem is is it the transducer up top, is it the cable, is it the cable connection or is it the instrument head that's at fault?:confused:

Exactly!
 
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