ST60 Wind and Deck Plugs Grrrrrr!

[Aja]

For the umpteenth time my ST60 Wind has stopped reading. As ever it is water that has got into the 'Dri-Plug' through deck fitting a fitting that I have replaced at least twice.

What is the opinion of the Forum. Do I stick with the Dri-Plug and fit a new one. Change to another plug and play system (it needs I think six pins from memory) or be radical and this winter fit a swan neck and be smug about it.

The mast does come down - but not every year.

Donald

 

[sailorman]

For the umpteenth time my ST60 Wind has stopped reading. As ever it is water that has got into the 'Dri-Plug' through deck fitting a fitting that I have replaced at least twice.

What is the opinion of the Forum. Do I stick with the Dri-Plug and fit a new one. Change to another plug and play system (it needs I think six pins from memory) or be radical and this winter fit a swan neck and be smug about it.

The mast does come down - but not every year.

Donald

get a swan neck s/s fitting & join the cable below deck

http://marinedirectory.ybw.com/Mari...sumer/full_review.jsp?r_id=334&category_id=20

 

[prv]

I've got one of Salty John's stainless deck fittings - kind of similar concept to a swan neck, but low profile and can't snag lines. Hasn't let in a drop so far, and looks great.

Pete

 

[knuterikt]

I've got one of Salty John's stainless deck fittings - kind of similar concept to a swan neck, but low profile and can't snag lines. Hasn't let in a drop so far, and looks great.

Pete

Yes, this is far better - keep all the connections dry below deck and low profile.

 

[Talulah]

Our connections are below the deck.
Scanstrut glands
View attachment 34197

 

[sailorman]

my mast is keel stepped, zero problem

 

[tillergirl]

get a swan neck s/s fitting & join the cable below deck

http://marinedirectory.ybw.com/Mari...sumer/full_review.jsp?r_id=334&category_id=20

There is a nicer one than that:

See here http://www.eastcoastsailing.co.uk/backissues.html Back Issue No 07, page 24. Cheaper too. Excellent Quality.

 

[sailorman]

There is a nicer one than that:

See here http://www.eastcoastsailing.co.uk/backissues.html Back Issue No 07, page 24. Cheaper two. Excellent Quality.

Twas all i could find as an illustration to give the OP an idea

 

[jakeroyd]

A cruder idea than suggested above but I wrap my connectors in self amalgamating tape.
Ok so far after 2 years.

 

[Graham_Wright]

For the umpteenth time my ST60 Wind has stopped reading. As ever it is water that has got into the 'Dri-Plug' through deck fitting a fitting that I have replaced at least twice.

What is the opinion of the Forum. Do I stick with the Dri-Plug and fit a new one. Change to another plug and play system (it needs I think six pins from memory) or be radical and this winter fit a swan neck and be smug about it.

The mast does come down - but not every year.

Donald

FlatGland;-can't trip over it like a swan neck.

 

[Talulah]

FlatGland;-can't trip over it like a swan neck.

That looks pretty good. Made by yourself I presume.
I am not a fan of swan necks. Too easy to get a line caught around and consequently very quickly wear through a cable sleave.
The standard fit swan neck on our Dufour 365 was just in the wrong place and it frequently happened removing the insulation off the VHF aerial cable.

 

[Graham_Wright]

That looks pretty good. Made by yourself I presume.

Er……………Yes! sales to date, 1 - on my boat!
I prefer connectors below decks too. An added advantage is you can whip out the plugs if there is lightning about.
As all cables and connectors go through a single deck hole, dropping the mast is a doddle as is replacing it.

 

[DaveS]

Er……………Yes! sales to date, 1 - on my boat!
I prefer connectors below decks too. An added advantage is you can whip out the plugs if there is lightning about.
As all cables and connectors go through a single deck hole, dropping the mast is a doddle as is replacing it.

I entirely agree with using connectors, and like your combination of single weatherproof hole + connectors. Much better than the "yotty standard" way of taking the cables through deck glands then joining below using "chocolate block" screw connectors which sever strands every time they're done up - once a year for many boats. Also, my experience of deck glands is not great: given sufficient time they always start to leak. Your point re. lightning is well made.

To the OP: there are alternatives to Dri-plugs (which I have used in the past with variable results: interestingly they do not appear to have an IP rating). Bulgin Buccaneers are very good, available from electronics suppliers as well as chandlers, but do require care to avoid cross threading because of the fine pitch of the cover screws.

 

[sailorman]

I entirely agree with using connectors, and like your combination of single weatherproof hole + connectors. Much better than the "yotty standard" way of taking the cables through deck glands then joining below using "chocolate block" screw connectors which sever strands every time they're done up - once a year for many boats. Also, my experience of deck glands is not great: given sufficient time they always start to leak. Your point re. lightning is well made.

To the OP: there are alternatives to Dri-plugs (which I have used in the past with variable results: interestingly they do not appear to have an IP rating). Bulgin Buccaneers are very good, available from electronics suppliers as well as chandlers, but do require care to avoid cross threading because of the fine pitch of the cover screws.

the correct block connectors do not screw directly into the wire strands but clamp them

 

[claymore]

In the meantime, get it dried and functioning then wrap a roll of self whatnotting round it.
Works for me.
And cheap - which I know will please you

 

[pvb]

the correct block connectors do not screw directly into the wire strands but clamp them

Correct, they have little stainless steel leaves which clamp the wire safely. Index Marine and others sell them.

 

[nimbusgb]

I fitted a low profile cowling type stainless covered ( modified s/s butter dish ) dorade type box for cable entry and then joined the cables below deck with 'SuperSeal' connectors. http://www.autosparks.co.uk/index.php?cPath=94_739&oscsid=ur9muvm63nfnstf2r612p4dg14
3 seasons with some heavy weather and lots of rain and my raymarine masthead gear, anchor and tricolour and steaming and deck light all still work fine.

Iirc I needed a 5 way connector for the wind unit. Turned side on with the cables made up it just slides nicely through a 38 mm deck hole.

 

[Graham_Wright]

I entirely agree with using connectors, and like your combination of single weatherproof hole + connectors. Much better than the "yotty standard" way of taking the cables through deck glands then joining below using "chocolate block" screw connectors which sever strands every time they're done up - once a year for many boats. Also, my experience of deck glands is not great: given sufficient time they always start to leak. Your point re. lightning is well made.

To the OP: there are alternatives to Dri-plugs (which I have used in the past with variable results: interestingly they do not appear to have an IP rating). Bulgin Buccaneers are very good, available from electronics suppliers as well as chandlers, but do require care to avoid cross threading because of the fine pitch of the cover screws.

I endorse the use of Bulgin plugs available from RS in a variety of sizes. (They are also marketed by Index marine).

I had a problem with the FlatGland as the Raymarine radar connector is right-angled and would not pass through the deck gland (which is an ECS skin fitting). The solution was to split the gland to pass the connector and then close it up. Works surprisingly well.

 

[wazza]

Yes, this is far better - keep all the connections dry below deck and low profile.

A big + 1 on this idea....

 

[Fantasie 19]

What is under the stainless steel cover? How does it work?