Wiggo
Well-Known Member
No! No! Take the money!
Spot the component
- Thread starter Morpheous
- Start date
Morpheous
Well-Known Member
are the floating connectors coded ? do they have a number or label on them,
sorting where these wires go to, would clear up a lot
as the unit is not connected anymore, perhaps you could get it out, and make some more pictures,
looking at these pictures (also under the heatsing (?)) it might be possible to recognise the cirquit and know what it could do.
how many amps are the fuses ?
are you sure there is no other connection / terminal posts on the other side ?
If there is only these two connectors,
then I guess it is a home made thing, with a same connector for input and output, so a dangerous situation for whatever it does.
can't you just "call" the previous owner ?
I know, that's less fun on here
I suspect calling the previous owner will not be productive, if the accuracy of claims made when purchasing the boat are anything to go by! The fuses are 15 amp.
Looks like it's coming out this weekend then. I'm pretty sure there are no othe wires going in. The heatsink looks part of the box rather stuck on but I could be wrong on that. I have the original wiring diagrams now (thanks epervier) and there is nothing obvious there. It's definitely not the old battery charger then?
jfm
Well-Known Member
A batt charger has only one 230v inlet, and it would be unusual for the inlet to have c15-16 connectors. Your box has 2 x 230v inlets (or rather, 2 connectors that ought to be 230v inlets). and they're both high temp rated c15-16 type. So it doesn't appear to be a batt charger.
DAKA
Well-Known Member
I agree with others that this may well be a 110volt to 240 volt converter.
Based on two female inputs ready to accept two separate 110v supplies.
These are readily available but I havent seen one like that.
Two issues concern me
a) if it is not an American boat why would it have such a fitting (unless someone used a building site 110 v generator.)
b) if it is a 110 to 240 volt converter then it could be wired into your mains, before you cut any wires you might want to unplug your shore power and isolate the bare ends before you plug back in.
One here
http://quick220.com/220_catalog.htm
But in this case two black 110 v input cables can be seen to the rear, on the front is two 240 volt output female ends.
Based on two female inputs ready to accept two separate 110v supplies.
These are readily available but I havent seen one like that.
Two issues concern me
a) if it is not an American boat why would it have such a fitting (unless someone used a building site 110 v generator.)
b) if it is a 110 to 240 volt converter then it could be wired into your mains, before you cut any wires you might want to unplug your shore power and isolate the bare ends before you plug back in.
One here
http://quick220.com/220_catalog.htm
But in this case two black 110 v input cables can be seen to the rear, on the front is two 240 volt output female ends.
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Morpheous
Well-Known Member
No it's a 20 year old Sunseeker
Glad it's not just me being a bit thick then. I was half expecting everyone to say "duh it's a .... "
EME
Well-Known Member
I haven't a clue!
It has to be an inverter .. as most suggest. However quite what it does and what it is doing on your boat is another issue, and I haven't a clue. It looks home made ( or at least an adaptation of something commercially available , perhaps in America)? I'd love to know what is inside the box and where that wiring goes ...
It has to be an inverter .. as most suggest. However quite what it does and what it is doing on your boat is another issue, and I haven't a clue. It looks home made ( or at least an adaptation of something commercially available , perhaps in America)? I'd love to know what is inside the box and where that wiring goes ...
jfm
Well-Known Member
Why? Where's the evidence of any heavy-current 12v wiring going to the batteries? WhiteMisch has said there are no other connections, beyond the ones we can see in the pic
Those sockets are international standard, iec320series, type c 15-16, rated 10amps, so if used (unwisely) for the 12v supply to the inverter then the inverter would then supply a miniscule 0.5amps at 230v (divide the amps supplied on the 12v side by 20, to get the available amps on the 240v side). That's implausible. Therefore, if there is no 12v heavy current supply to the box it just can't be an inverter? Or it's a 0.5amp inverter with exposed 240v pins in a boat engine room... Lovely!
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andythilo
Well-Known Member
The gauge of the wires on the IEC leads would indicate a high current application, 20 - 25amps capable, and the 15A fuse would indication it's not AC, to me anyway.
Pull it out and trace the wiring back, or if your nads are big enough, plug it in and see what happens
As someone has said, are there volts, either AC or DC on the IEC leads? Their gender would indicate that they are supply leads.
Pull it out and trace the wiring back, or if your nads are big enough, plug it in and see what happens
As someone has said, are there volts, either AC or DC on the IEC leads? Their gender would indicate that they are supply leads.
EME
Well-Known Member
I have no idea what else it can be .. I assumed 110V by the way ( I dont know!!)
OPEN the Box !! I dont know what makes sense in that setup .. why it is intriguing!!
Therefore, if there is no 12v heavy current supply to the box it just can't be an inverter? Or it's a 0.5amp inverter with exposed 240v pins in a boat engine room... Lovely!
MMhh ... totally
It looks like a job by Mr Robinson ( whatever it is) .. look at the wiring at the rear .. and I'm not convinced there isnt/hasn't been a 12 volt supply are you ? The one thing we can see are the Heavy-Duty heat-sinks which suggests high ampage does it not (possibly more than 20 Amps ??) (or dodgy components !) ??
I have to ask would you have it on your boat .. even 'disconnected' ?
I'd just like to know what it really is /was and what it was used for !
Edit - I'm assuming that one of those 'inlets' has to be an 'outlet'. We could of course have the first proof of Leprechaun stowaways and we actually are looking at a self-gimballed ( fore - and - aft only), twin-hot-plate , cooker for the little folk.
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Morpheous
Well-Known Member
I am reasonably certain there are no other wires at the back, it is mounted on a metal l shaped bracket ( yes Heath has been here ) and I can spin it round 360 on the screw. I'm pretty sure I would feel a wire there. So my mission for this weekend is take it off, open it up, photograph and post back the pics.
I shall also see if I can trace the wiring back to see where it goes. And 110v to 240 transformer could be plausible, there is one of those old metal style mains connectors with the screw cap (forget what they are called) that may have been connected. The only thing that doesn't add up with the transformer is there are 2 fuses.
I shall also see if I can trace the wiring back to see where it goes. And 110v to 240 transformer could be plausible, there is one of those old metal style mains connectors with the screw cap (forget what they are called) that may have been connected. The only thing that doesn't add up with the transformer is there are 2 fuses.
jfm
Well-Known Member
The gauge of the wires on the IEC leads would indicate a high current application, 20 - 25amps capable, and the 15A fuse would indication it's not AC, to me anyway.
Pull it out and trace the wiring back, or if your nads are big enough, plug it in and see what happens
As someone has said, are there volts, either AC or DC on the IEC leads? Their gender would indicate that they are supply leads.
Those IEC320 plugs/sockets are 10A rated.
Morpheous
Well-Known Member
The gauge of the wires on the IEC leads would indicate a high current application, 20 - 25amps capable, and the 15A fuse would indication it's not AC, to me anyway.
Pull it out and trace the wiring back, or if your nads are big enough, plug it in and see what happens
As someone has said, are there volts, either AC or DC on the IEC leads? Their gender would indicate that they are supply leads.
Nads definitely nervous and shrivelling at the thought! Almost everything working so daren't risk frying anything. I didn't see any AC or DC's but will check
andythilo
Well-Known Member
Very true but judging from the botch that it is, do you think the person who built it knew that?
BartW
Well-Known Member
after more close inspection of the wires on the sockets, I believe it is a self made DC to DC stabilizer
so either the previous owner used to have a 12V electronic device that needs stabilized 12V (and can't have 14+ volt that comes out the alternator)
or a lower voltage device f.e. 5volt,
so then the unit is a 12VDC to 5VDC convertor / stabiliser.
looking at the components inside could be a cleu
you might find some unused wires at the other end, in the dashboard f.e.
so either the previous owner used to have a 12V electronic device that needs stabilized 12V (and can't have 14+ volt that comes out the alternator)
or a lower voltage device f.e. 5volt,
so then the unit is a 12VDC to 5VDC convertor / stabiliser.
looking at the components inside could be a cleu
you might find some unused wires at the other end, in the dashboard f.e.
Morpheous
Well-Known Member
Probably not judging by the 15A fuses1
Morpheous
Well-Known Member
There are loads of unused wires, it clearly has had many systems renewed replaced, by passed etc. I have had to stop using a Hummingbird 3D fishfinder because it interferes with the VHF. Maybe if it was using a clean supply it would be happier?
Since new I know it has had radar/charplotter, battery charger, bow thruster, tv antenna, electric toilet fitted. It looks like it has had Cetrek autohelm at some point. Apparently it is missing some significant part but it has the remote for it and according to the previous owner the wiring is there.
andythilo
Well-Known Member
Maybe it'd be best to start from the beginning and re-wire it all. A daunting task I know but at least then you'll know where everything goes and what it does.
jfm
Well-Known Member
Fair point!
As already said, it's definitely home made. It's a standard (maplin et al) black plastic box, the 320 connectors are attached with slotted screws, the heatsinks seem to be screwed to the top of the plastic box (doh!). Whitemisch, I think you'll have to remove the heatsinks to reveal the screws that hold the lid of the box on
Morpheous
Well-Known Member
Yep, it's definitely coming to bits. My mission for tomorrow morning. I'll get pics of the internals up on Sunday when we get back
Nick_H
Well-Known Member
Maybe it's just the worlds most elaborate in-line fuse? If there's no other wires coming out of the box, then it seems quite likely that one of the male sockets is an outlet, which would cause me serious concern about any other modifications the guy had made, like diverting the engine exhausts into the cabin for heating
