Split pins or rings

matt1

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I’ve had a few occurrences when the rings have got caught on things, deformed and nearly been pulled out. Obviously it’s split pins for the standing rigging, so I guess they must be more fool proof but am I missing anything if I swap the rings for split pins in the lifelines/guard wires? I guess a ring would be easier to remove if I had to drop the wires in a hurry
 
I have never used rings since I found the broken bits of one at the foot of my forestay. It had come from a clevis pin which, fortunately, had not had time to work itself free.
 
I mostly have rings on items such as lifelines. Most of them get taped over with self-amalgamating tape, which lasts longer than vinyl. The only awkward ones are on the pelican clips on wires between the semi-pushpits. These can't be taped because they need to move. One occasionally catches the ensign but all I can do is make sure the ring is without snags.
 
I’ve had a few occurrences when the rings have got caught on things, deformed and nearly been pulled out. Obviously it’s split pins for the standing rigging, so I guess they must be more fool proof but am I missing anything if I swap the rings for split pins in the lifelines/guard wires? I guess a ring would be easier to remove if I had to drop the wires in a hurry
Split rings, as you have already recognised, have a tendency to unwind themselves, so best not to use them in any critical or difficult to view positions- better to be used in less important equipment and always in view within the cockpit area. . As to releasing lifelines - cold, wet fingers and short finger nails would make a split ring a real challenge- better to use pelican hooks or snap shackles ( the latter can be fitted to push pit with turns of braided line which serves as adjustment and if necessary can be cut quickly if the shackle jams.
 
Both split pins and rings need taping or other protection if they are at all likely to come into contact with ropes, fingers, clothing etc.
So it does not much matter which you use. Whichever fits the situation better. Checking the taping and inspecting fittings for bits of ring sticking is a regular task. Standing rigging which is never going to be taken apart at short notice, split pins closely fitted are probably best, but they still need covering.
Some rings of really thin wire bend out of shape very easily, as do fine split pins.best to use the right size for the job.
 
I had a split ring get caught and pulled out on my steering wire. Luckily my emergency steering was easy to set up and use! I have since been told use only split pins unless the item is regularly taken apart and regularly means at least monthly. I'm am now also wary about ring use in 'critical' items.
 
I had a split ring get caught and pulled out on my steering wire. Luckily my emergency steering was easy to set up and use! I have since been told use only split pins unless the item is regularly taken apart and regularly means at least monthly. I'm am now also wary about ring use in 'critical' items.
If a ring can get caught, so can a split pin. Often doing damage to that which catches it...
Steering wires though, need to move and shouldn't be at risk of things catching them.
You don't want the rudder jammed by something trapped in the wires.

Best to look at the whole issue rather than just fit a new split pin.

Sometimes by the, for relatively lightly loaded items, I cheat and use a bolt with a nylock nut. Definitely not for the shrouds etc! Only clevis pins of known parentage there.
 
Split pins ..... or rings ?

My shrouds come down to the toe-rail and have U fastenings with removable non threaded pins. They require a split pin or ring to fix. I removed the split pins on the side shrouds for good reason after a person with open yachting sandals caught their toes and caused nasty cuts. I taped over - but it was a stop-gap remedy that I was not keen on.
So I searched carefully for rings that I could have faith in. The ones supposedly for those pins - were too flimsy and when I tried one - it was obvious the ring would deform easily if caught. I then searched for better and found them in a Farmers equipment shop ... decent gauge rings, with the bar across the middle set in so it didn't catch anything. (these are not split rings in effect .. these are a circle with a horizontal bar to insert and then twist round) .. sure people know what I mean... but not the sprung bar ones - they are far too big.
They were designed to lock pins on tractors and farm gear - something that does not accept shoddy crap gear !!
They also never had sheets or lines catch in them as I had with 'yachting rings and split pins'.

Those rings lasted many years and I only replaced some when a helper lost odd ones overside during mast lowering. Reminds me - must go look in the Tractor shops over here !! I need more.
 
I'm not a great fan of split pins, so use small bolts (2mm ish) with nylock nuts on my standing rigging.

I have thought of similar - as long as I can find proper stainless - instead of the crap that shops 'say' are stainless and then you find 6 months later rusted !

I think it also needs a bit of clarity on what people consider a RING ... there are various sorts ...

Ones made of circular gauge and end is just bent up proud to allow entry into hole - some are near 90 deg.

Others where the end is bent across the centre of the ring to avoid it catching - some with also other end bent up proud

Others more like key rings with no raised or proud end to use

Just examples ... there are others.
 
Rings are for kit that needs locking but needs to be either opened regularly or must be able to be opened without tool in an emergency. Example of the first is the securing pins on our towed generator: the pins need to come out to convert it to a wind turbine. Guard rails spring to mind for the second.
Otherwise it’s spilt pins. Care needs to be taken in bending the exposed ends back so as to minimise the snagging hazard. I’m not a fan of taping anything, no tape survives for long in the sun and looks tatty quickly. Use the correct sized pin so as to minimise the length of the free ends and bend them back properly.
 
Illuminating!

I loathe split pins, mainly as a result of receiving numerous gashes to my fingers and other parts of my anatomy, both in fitting or removing them and when in place, but also because of the sometime difficulty in removing them, and because no matter how big one's stocks, one always seems to need the next size up or down.

As a result I've often used rings or monel wire in all manner of places. I now see that I have been living on borrowed time for the last few decades. :oops:
 
Interesting thread - I've just renewed the steering cables on my boat - the originals which I suspect are as built 40 yrs ago had split rings at the quadrant end and split ins at the pedestal chain end. I fitted split rings at both ends as there was nothing to foul them(and I prefer them as you don't get clothes snagged on them - as my wife did on a new pair of trousers...)
 
Seizing wire preferred for most critical semi-permanent use cases!

In skiffs someone produced some natty clevis pins with a velcro band.
 
Last year's thread .

Andrew Simpson of PBO fame mentions his dislike of split rings for rigging and lifelines . He has known four masts come down due to them, including one himself.

Thought I would check mine. All the rigging has split pins but not the lifelines. The port side lifelines split ring was half out and the starboard side clevis pin had nothing in it at all. Decided that I would do without them and replace with pins or monel wire.
 
Last year's thread .

Andrew Simpson of PBO fame mentions his dislike of split rings for rigging and lifelines . He has known four masts come down due to them, including one himself.

Thought I would check mine. All the rigging has split pins but not the lifelines. The port side lifelines split ring was half out and the starboard side clevis pin had nothing in it at all. Decided that I would do without them and replace with pins or monel wire.

Split pins - I'm always stabbing myself with the ends .. tried taping them up but that is only a temp solution.

If I can get good stainless rings OF CORRECT size - I prefer them ...

Each to their own ...
 
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