Splicing small lines

gandy

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Hi,

Does anyone here find that they can successfully splice small lines of 3mm to 5mm using any of the various published methods? (Apart from three strand, of course)

The type of line I use has a braided polyester cover, then a near parallel polyester or Dyneema core. This is for control lines, kicker, outhaul, reefing lines etc.

Marlow's splicing needle, and the smallest hollow fid I can find are both to big to fit into the cover. If anyone successfully splices this type of stuff, then I'd love to know how you go about it.

Alternatively I'd be grateful for suggestions of other types of line, suitable for small control lines and more easily spliced.

Thanks,

Tony S

Apologies if this has already been discussed, but a search for "splice" or "splicing" in any combination seems to hang indefinitely.

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AndrewB

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I'm quite sure this question has never appeared before, though we've had the occasional thread on splicing regular sized braidline.

Its possible to get fids down to 6mm, but any smaller and as you say, the conventional tools are out the question. In any case very light line isn't cored.

I suspect you are on your own here. My yacht came with a 4mm burgee halliard that was a continuous loop. It appeared to have been done by stranding a couple inches at each end and then plaiting them into the other end, presumably with an outsized darning needle. The result was rather a bulge, though it had been carefully tapered and was quite strong.



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Talbot

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There is an alternative approach (althopugh the subsequent splice is not quite as strong as conventional splice, I have never had any problem with it). I also use the same technigue if I need the bulge on the rope to be as short as possible. What I do is make the eye with a loop of the rope leaving abt 4" extra on the short end. I then make a hole through the centre of the long part of the rope at the point I want the eye to meet. I pass the short end through this hole (you will almost certainly have to taper and seal the short end to ease the problem of getting it through the body of the rope). I then pull the short end through until I have the size eye I want. I put a temporary lashing over this to hold it in place while doing the next bit. About 1" to 1.5" away from the first hole, (and also away from the eye) I make another hole on the long part of the rope. This must be parrallel with the first hole such that when you pass the short end through this hole and pull tight, the two ropes should lay parrallel. Pull the short end though as hard as possible and roll the two ropes together to help them lay flat, pull tight again, then whipp the splice from the eye all the way past the second hole, and for another 1" to 1.5" (which should just about be to the end of the short end of the rope). make sure the whipping is a good qualitity and as tight as possible. Make sure both holes are in the centre of the rope!

When the weight comes on the eye, the rope squeezes tight on itself and the whipping makes sure it all stays in the right place.

Hope you can understand my explanation!

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lumphammer

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I have made a fairly successful splice using thin copper wire doubled over as a fid. Push the bight up through the braid, thread the inner core between the copper wires and pull back. The advantage is that you can make the wire long enough to get a good grip. Do this in both directions, then whip or sow the ends. I haven't yet worked out what to do about the outer braid at the joint though!


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G

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It was accepted practice to literally 'sew' the splice .... that is to use a large sail-needle and use that to feed the core filaments down the centre of the standing part and out at sufficient length of splice. The braided outer would then be fed in / out / in / out of the standing part braid to complete ........ cut of excess and if needed you can put a short whip at end of splice to tidy up ..... in some cases if the line is a slack construction - as is often the case in lighter lines .... a short splice at the satrt of the splice where both parts come together is not unreasonable.


Basically using the large needle as a fid come needle.........

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MainlySteam

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That is interesting Nigel.

I think I understand what you are saying correctly - does that mean that with Spectra/Dyneema core, where you first enter the core into the braid at the root of the loop where the parts come together, the core ends up not exposed to UV (those materials being sensitive to it). Or would one need to just whip over that short bit or else use a short piece of shrink wrap, perhaps with hot melt inside, to protect against UV?

Regards

John

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G

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Specialist ropes ....

require specialist care.

My suggestion was based on common lesser specialist rope. He does mention both polyester and Dyneema .......

As long as the core is pulled well into the standing part and the outer braid is spread sufficiently and sewn in over .... then I would guess the core should be covered reasonably.


As we know - braided rope is normaly spliced by passing the core of the end down the standing part alongside its core ...... the free core being pulled down by a hook. The outer braid is entered into the standing part at slightly different point. The action of load tightens the whole structure ....

In the posters question he is taling about light small cordage .... so this can be doen with a large sail-makers needle ....... but I have seen old-hands literally sew the outer braid to give it better hold.

I do not normally splice the Spectra / other specialist types ---- a) cause I'm a scrooge and don't buy such !, b) can require special techniques .... best left to a rigger.


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aitchw

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I have frequently used the same general method successfully though I go through the standing part three times about 18mm apart and whip only the bottom and top of the splice, about 15mm in each case. Not as neat as a proper splice but I have never successfully made one in these thin cords. I use dyneema cored lines,4 - 6mm for all control lines and hallyards on my dinghies.

I have acquired a Marlow splicing needle now so I will try again and see if I can make it work. I find it very difficult to extract the core from the sheath to start with on thin line so if anyone has an easy method I would be grateful to hear about it.

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