Southern Brittany

[Allan]

Next June I plan to return to the west coast of France in my Westerly 33 (draft 1.4m, bilge keels) for a couple of weeks. We will probably head to Camaret-sur-Mer then, hopefully, Belle Ile. Are there any suggestions for places to visit on the way back up the coast. Interesting towns, villages, anchorages and the odd marina are what we would like. Last year we went to Camaret, Ile de Groix, Concarneau, Audierne and L'Aber-Ildut. This year we would to visit different places.
Allan

 

[youen]

You can sail to from south to north
Port Louis
Le Belon
Concarneau
Beg Meil
Les Glenan
Benodet
Sainte Marine
Loctudy
Lesconil
It is an easy sailing area

 

[Dab]

If you get as far south as Trinite Sur Mer (south of the Quiberon Peninsula and Carnac) you can visit the Alignements, a set of linear arrangements of standing stones between Trinite Sur Mer and Carnac. There is a tourist road train you can catch which takes you along most of the route.

 

[guernseyman]

If you get as far south as Trinite Sur Mer (south of the Quiberon Peninsula and Carnac) you can visit the Alignements, a set of linear arrangements of standing stones between Trinite Sur Mer and Carnac. There is a tourist road train you can catch which takes you along most of the route.

Or hire bikes in Trinité to visit Carnac.

The Morbihan is different, and gives you access to Vannes.

 

[Poignard]

Port Manec'h, at the estuary of the Aven and Belon rivers, is a pleasant anchorage. There are also a few visitor moorings but the one nearest the breakwater is in shallow water. Small general store in the village and a couple of good restaurants. More places to anchor in the rivers..

 

[Allan]

Many thanks for the suggestions. Belle Ile will definitely be the furthest we go. When I lived in France I sailed the Trinite-sur-Mer area and the Morbihan. I also did a lot of work near Vannes.
Allan

 

[Cloven]

If you are planning to go as far as Belle Isle, then you are perfectly placed for a beautiful cruising area - Isles of Houat & Hoedic, marinas at Haliguen, La Trinite and Port Crouesty, as already mentioned, the gateway to the Gulf of Morbihan. Once in there you can visit Auray, Bono, Vannes, Isle au Moines, Isle d'Arz - the list goes on. A little further still and you are into the Vilaine & 27km of navigable river with marinas at Arzal, la Roche-Bernard, Folleux & Redon or, if staying at sea over to Piriac - lovely marina and beautiful town. Why go home!

Maybe see you out there!

 

[Allan]

This year we went down as far as Ile de Groix and enjoyed the speed/distance of the trip. For that reason I don't want to push things any further. At some point the "why go home" will become relevant. Until then we won't be going beyond Belle Ile.
Allan

 

[TSB240]

Still thinking about the three weeks we had in this area this summer.

I reckon I could have spent two weeks just exploring Belle Isle alone!

Sauzon is superb if you can dry out.

Dave W has recommended some places a little further south and I would endorse trying out the River Villaine.

Looks like we are booked in for a return trip this summer.

You obviosly know the Morbihan and Vannes well but there is so much in that area to explore.

Wish I had gone to Piriac probably end up there this year if northerlies prevail!

 

[Sybarite]

Next June I plan to return to the west coast of France in my Westerly 33 (draft 1.4m, bilge keels) for a couple of weeks. We will probably head to Camaret-sur-Mer then, hopefully, Belle Ile. Are there any suggestions for places to visit on the way back up the coast. Interesting towns, villages, anchorages and the odd marina are what we would like. Last year we went to Camaret, Ile de Groix, Concarneau, Audierne and L'Aber-Ildut. This year we would to visit different places.
Allan

Here is a post I made at the end of August.

Sourhern Brittany as far as Morbihan (long post)

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Some things that I enjoy (in response to a pm ):

In general, the islands of Brittany are worth seeing if only for the fact that the number of French people there are limited by the ferries!

Ushant, Molène and Sein (especially Sein with its narrow streets and Breton speaking population) but pay special attention to tides and currents which are very strong. Keep an eye out for the resident population of large dolphins and possibly for seals – probably the only place in Brittany to see them.

Brest: a visit to Océanopolis is well worth while. The town itself is nothing special. There may be interesting boats in the old port which you would see on the way in.

Aulne River. Depending on your draft you can go up as far as Châteaulin which is about 15 miles up-stream and then there is one lock to pass. I went up with 1m70 draft but you should check the sailing directions. Keep to the outside of bends.

Camaret : is a junction port for boats heading north and south. If shopping is required it’s easier to cross the harbour in a dinghy; otherwise it’s a long walk.

Heading south, the southern part of Point de la Chèvre has some picturesque little bays which are worth a swim stop in good weather. Keep an eye out though for buoyed fishing nets. Morgat is a useful if somewhat featureless port. The resort about half a mile away has some good restaurants. Douarnenez is interesting especially visiting the floating boat museum which, incidentally, nearly bankrupted the town…

Leaving Douarnenez, I would visit Sein (see above) then Audierne. I always moored in the outside harbor and so cannot comment on the approach to the inner harbor which is tide dependent I think.

Leaving Audierne and rounding Pen Mar’ch the first significant port is Le Guilvinic which traditionally is one of the main fishing ports and not that welcoming to pleasure craft – although I had no problems.

From there I would tend to head to the Glénan islands where you have a ring of islands surrounding a lagoon which is one the few areas in Europe to have coral sand beaches (W. Ireland also have some). There are buoys at St Nicholas but elsewhere there is not much problem anchoring. St Nicholas has two restaurants, a seafood one where you have to reserve at lunch-time for the evening and the previous evening for lunch-time. They have a large vivarium behind with an impressive collection of lobsters. There is another bar-restaurant with a basic but reasonable selection. On St Nicholas, there is a fenced-off area where there is a type of narcissus which only occurs on that spot. As the day ferries only land at St Nicholas, I prefer other parts especially the SW corner of Penfret. Great places for walks.

From the Glénan I would then visit Loctudy (if you need a port but otherwise so-so) and then Bénodet and opposite, Sainte Marine. Bénodet is one of the favourite places for my kids because it has a lively atmosphere, even a casino. There are usually some beautiful boats here.

The Odet River : not to be missed. Steep wooded banks and twisting curves. Near the top and just before it opens out to a wide open bit, there is a turning off to starboard; it’s very narrow but inside it opens out into a lovely tree-surrounded pool (Anse an Toulven). Keep well to left of entrance; it may be prudent for you to wait for half-tide rising before entering though I have only lightly touched once at low tide. The centre of the anse is deep enough and mud-bottomed so no great risk. After the Bénodet area you can head to Port La-Forêt where several large racing boats are based. It’s a very good place if things need repairing. There is a golf course within (long) walking distance.

From Port-la-Forêt, go next to Concarneau. It’s not particularly practicable for shopping but well worth a visit. Visit "la Ville Close" a walled town on an island within the harbour.

Our favourite restaurants :

• Le Croquervol : 3 rue Alfred Le Ray just opposite the marina.
• La Coquille : In the inner harbour on the right bank. The owner is the former chef of the Tour d’Argent at Paris, one of Paris’ best restaurants.
• A few miles from Concarneau (make sure the funds are in your bank) La Taupinière. http://www.la-taupiniere.fr/video.

After Concarneau there are several little ports along the way, Doelan, Port Mane’ch where, depending on your draft, you can go up the Aven as far as Pont Aven a very picturesque town for painters where Paul Gauguin was based before heading off to warmer places. You will have to dry out against a wall at low tide. Alternatively you can explore the Belon estuary just opposite Port Mane’ch.

From there I would visit the Ile de Groix. Port Tudy is a picturesque little port and there are very good walks around the island. In settled weather and a westerly régime you can moor off the beaches to the east.

From there you can visit the Rade de Lorient where you have the choice of 5 or 6 marinas. My home base is Locmiquélic which is excellent. I read in the visitors’ book that some consider it to be the best on the west coast of France.

Two restaurants on the port : Le Cargo Sentimental (owned until recently by a circus clown) where the fare is good but has become a little pricey (the cabaret act?) and simple fare (moules frites) at La Boussole. A small supermarket in the town centre (1 km) or Intermarché, Lidl and a new Leclerc at the other side of the town.

The Tabarly sailing centre at the old submarine pens (Lorient) is worth a visit and is the base for the Banque Populaire trimaran amongst others.

You can also moor virtually in the town centre if crowds and noise are your thing.

Port Louis marina has recently been enlarged and is just past the Citadelle at the entrance.

The Blavet is navigable as far as Hennebont.

From Lorient we usually would head for Belle Ile ignoring the Etel estuary where onshore winds can render the bar difficult. The usual arrival port is Sauzon which has to be among the prettiest ports in Brittany. There is an inner harbour which dries out with a flat sandy bottom and an outer harbour where you raft to buoys. Outside this harbour, buoys are also in place. In northerly winds however it can be uncomfortable. In port, try the Bistro du Port (grilled sardines or côte de boeuf grilled on an open fire in front of you). There is another excellent restaurant to the right hand side of the church going up the hill. I forget its name. (Restaurant Roz Avel : thank you Google Earth - it was open out of season when I last visited))

Another place not to miss is Ster Wenn (pronounced Venn) which is an anchorage behind cliffs in the NW corner of Belle Ile. You enter Ster Vraz and then do a right angle to Ster Wenn. You anchor in the middle and take lines to the left bank. There is a golf green on the cliffs at Ster Vraz (9 hole course).

From there you can visit Le Palais, the main port on the island, and its Citadelle by Vauban.

From Belle Ile you either visit Port Haliguen and La Trinité (aka in France as the mecca of yachting) or the islands of Houat (“wot”) and Hoëdic (“eddick”) where you have a superb restaurant at the hotel. We also had an excellent grilled bass (bar grillé) “Chez Paul”. Houat has better anchorages than Hoëdic, and all around the island depending on the winds. Excellent walks on both islands.

Le Crouësty is a well appointed and friendly port but slightly soul destroying. It is a good stop-over point for visiting the Golfe de Morbihan; I prefer mooring to the east of Ile d’Arz but it’s not good holding ground. Better to use a buoy if possible. The island as well as the Ile aux Moines are picturesque and worth visiting.

That’s all for now folks….

 

[shaxi]

thanks for your sharing ,i can feel you enjoy it very much !
some pics you can post ?

 

[Goldie]

Unles I missed it, I don't think anyone's mentioned the Etel River. Marina is good and well priced (and gets cheaper the longer you stay) and the boat trip upstream is well worth the money. Don't think of taking a dinghy upstream unless it can do at least 10kts!!!! Don't be worried about the VHF pilotage direction in French - if you've got the language skills to tell left from right in clear simple french, it's easy.

 

[Allan]

Many thanks for all the suggestions. Places like the Etel are exactly what I'm looking for. I will look do some research about all the places mentioned over the winter.
Allan

 

[Poignard]

Here's a useful book:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Secret-Anchorages-Brittany-Imray-Cumberlidge/dp/0852887574

 

[TSB240]

Don't be worried about the VHF pilotage direction in French - if you've got the language skills to tell left from right in clear simple french, it's easy.

But it took a while for my friend to work out that "Her" Droit was his Gauche

 

[Allan]

Here's a useful book:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Secret-Anchorages-Brittany-Imray-Cumberlidge/dp/0852887574

Ordered.
Allan

 

[Roberto]

Etel

Unles I missed it, I don't think anyone's mentioned the Etel River. Marina is good and well priced (and gets cheaper the longer you stay) and the boat trip upstream is well worth the money. Don't think of taking a dinghy upstream unless it can do at least 10kts!!!! Don't be worried about the VHF pilotage direction in French - if you've got the language skills to tell left from right in clear simple french, it's easy.

even better than VHF, Etel has one of the few signalling masts called "Mât Fenoux": it's a sort of big arrow that Josiane (the name of the lady you have on the VHF) manoeuvers from inside the house to indicate the right direction to follow.
Red flag and horizontal arrow: bar impassable.

Apart from the text, a scanned chartlet and aerial picture here

http://sybrancaleone.blogspot.com/2009/02/il-mat-fenoux-di-etel.html




Upstream the Etel river there is the very nice tiny village of St Cado, sort of Mt St Michel scaled down 100 times ,

and besides the Fisherman's house

 

[DJE]

Next June I plan to return to the west coast of France in my Westerly 33 (draft 1.4m, bilge keels) for a couple of weeks. We will probably head to Camaret-sur-Mer then, hopefully, Belle Ile. Are there any suggestions for places to visit on the way back up the coast. Interesting towns, villages, anchorages and the odd marina are what we would like. Last year we went to Camaret, Ile de Groix, Concarneau, Audierne and L'Aber-Ildut. This year we would to visit different places.
Allan

Belle Ile + bilge keels = Sauzon. Not to be missed.

 

[Roberto]

Ster wenn

Ster Wenn, mentioned by John-Sybarite, NW corner of Belle Ile, just south of Poulains lighthouse

 

[jimbaerselman]

Sybarite's post

Hey, Sybarite, Great post! And nice photos DJE and Roberto

If you look at www.jimbsail.info/drupal/tidal-europe/biscay/france it seems we're in strong agreement about many places, but you've got lots of useful additional detail. What chance I recruit you to look after that page? And if not, may I borrow some of your words?

It's not meant to be a pilot guide - just a guide to help people choose where to cruise

ps, and photos?