South Pacific Windlasses - feedback

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LORDNELSON

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I am considering buying a South Pacific Windlass (VS600). They seem reasonably priced. I would be grateful for any comments users of South Pacific Windlasses may make about their experience with these windlasses, which are marketed from Sydney, Australia, although I am not sure if they are made in Australia. Thank you.
 
I have a South Pacific windlass on my Sarum 28, it is model 800F. It has given good service through 2 season's use. South Pacific are an Australian firm but their windlasses are made in Taiwan. They are not well-known in the UK having no official distributor here. Size for size they are both cheaper and lighter in current-draw than most other manufacturers' products. Mine was supplied with a rocker-switch arrangement protected by a hinged waterproof lid. This is the only part that has given trouble as the lid's hinge has broken. I may change to the more usual push-button arrangement. The windlass itself seems to be a thoroughly serviceable machine.
 
fitted one 2 years ago, no longer get a bad back. Had trouble with the lever jamming on chain if a link had stuck or twisted, sheared pin this season since then it works a treat, think its used for rope tension, the only complaint would be that its not possible to screw in a chain counter like the quick type but well marked chain can be seen easily from cockpit, fitted controller in bow, with a long lead that will reackkto the bows if required, the excess it stowed in washing up bottle screwed to bulkhead with enought for use in cockpit, I find that this works well for me, Best investment that I have ever made apart from the boat.
 
JimC said:
I have a South Pacific windlass on my Sarum 28, it is model 800F. It has given good service through 2 season's use. South Pacific are an Australian firm but their windlasses are made in Taiwan. They are not well-known in the UK having no official distributor here. Size for size they are both cheaper and lighter in current-draw than most other manufacturers' products. Mine was supplied with a rocker-switch arrangement protected by a hinged waterproof lid. This is the only part that has given trouble as the lid's hinge has broken. I may change to the more usual push-button arrangement. The windlass itself seems to be a thoroughly serviceable machine.
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Hi , I have one of these and need to purchase chain for it , can you please tell me the chain thickness you use 6 or 8? Or if it can vary if you know
Many thanks
David
 
The SP windlasses can be supplied with 6,7 or 8 mm gypsy. The larger ones are supplied with a 8mm as standard but I asked BGD if they could supply with a 6mm gypsy and they said they could. It would be wise therefore to check the gypsy just to make sure you order the right size so you do not make an expensive mistake.
 
I have their CV1000 Pro model which is has been great (2 seasons so far). I did manage to stall it once when extracting the anchor from thick mud and this blew the reversing solenoid which I needed to replace. Since then I have carefully adjusted the torque limiter to prevent it happening again. Bought from Boat Gear Direct, who no longer seem to have this model.
 
Does anyone have any experience of using a South Pacific windlass with a mixed rode using 8 plait as the rope part. Boat Gear Direct says it's OK but anecdotal evidence says very iffy. I know from my own experience that they're fine with 3 strand but would like to change to 14 mm 8 plait for better stowage.
 
ditchcrawler said:
The SP windlasses can be supplied with 6,7 or 8 mm gypsy. The larger ones are supplied with a 8mm as standard but I asked BGD if they could supply with a 6mm gypsy and they said they could. It would be wise therefore to check the gypsy just to make sure you order the right size so you do not make an expensive mistake.
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The chain size for the gypsy should be embossed into the gypsy, sometimes on its circumference but usually into the top or bottom of each half - which means you need to take the gypsy off :)
 
sealegsjim said:
I have had one for 3 seasons with no problems
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I can't get used to this new system of branching the posts. Was that a response to my question about using 8 plait rope or to the general question as to whether the windlasses are any good?

I preferred the earlier system of stacking the posts in a single sequence, simpler and better IMHO.
 
I purchased a boat last year with a South Pacific windlass, it worked once then stopped. I took it out and dismantled, the alloy casing was completely full of bluey white aluminium corrosion crystals, over two litres of them. this was a consequence of the stainless steel bottom plate reacting with the cast alloy housing, in particular where the ss machine screws went in to lugs in the casting there were just corroded holes. In addition the plastic drum of the centrifugal braking mechanism on the end of the motor shaft had worn away.
I cleaned the thing up, built up the lugs again with epoxy cement, painted with epoxy primer and put it together using sealant as an isolator and with a new switch fitted managed to get it to go, though I do not expect it to last long, I put an mdpe platform under the base in the forlorn hope of keeping it away from the sea water that comes in to the anchor locker. I have used it several times this season, the brake which is supposed to control the speed of drop is not repairable but I rarely anchor in very deep water. So far it is working. It is a pain that the only way to service them is to take them out and turn them upside down to get the access plate off.
My opinion is that these Australian branded/ Chinese made windlasses are very much to the cheap, short life, end of the market, I would not buy one. They might probably be fine if kept away from salty water. I also suspect that the UK importers are now buying straight from China as they seem to have dropped the 'South Pacific' brand name. I know that most stuff is made in China now and that like everywhere else quality can vary and be reflected in the price.
Lewmar market a similar product which is worth comparing.
 
I’ve had my South Pacific for about 6 years and it’s been faultless. I use heat eBay wireless remote. My only grumble is the cables are very short, meaning my John n is in the anchore locker. I use a mixed anchorplait/8mm chain rode with a long splice through the chain, this sometimes jams on the way up but a little pull from below sort it.
 
I agree with much of what Quandary ha said.

There is a big issue with corrosion between stainless bolts and aluminium castings on windlass. I don't know if the fault is with the manufacturer or installer - but if you install a new windlass, have a new yacht with a new windlass, or buy a yacht with a windlass one of the tasks at the top of my priority list would now be - disassemble and ensure the bolts are isolated from the aluminium. One of the biggest complaints about windlass is, or are, differential corrosion - which is hardly unexpected as they have salt water all over them, from the chain, every time they are used.

An obvious solution would be cutting out the aluminium castings - but no-one would then buy the windlass as they would be too expensive.

If you ignore the risk of differential corrosion it will soon be too late - and you might need a new windlass.

I'd also spray the motor with 'something' as the carcass is simply mild steel - and it will soon start to look manky.

Muir still manufacture their windlass in Australia, or did a couple of years ago but Maxwell now seem to be sourcing a lot or all of their part from China. We replaced a Muir with Maxwell and whilst I have no complaint of the Muir quality I am very impressed with the product from China being sold by Maxwell. This underlines Quandary's point - it not about where it is made, so forget xenophobia, its about quality control - for which you need to pay, sometime.

If it cheap - question why it is cheap. The design of a windlass is very simple, there are not many parts, there are very few place you can save money during manufacture - unless you skimp somewhere.

But corrosion between stainless and alloy - we need to accept that these two components will come into contact with each other (or pay for a stainless windlass, Lighthouse in America?) so isolate the 2 from each other - because my evaluation is - installers don't bother (and there does not appear to be warnings in the installation instructions).

Jonathan

Edit -And returning to one of my many threads on anchoring - windlass need servicing, or at least checking. I think Maxwell say every year - but it must also depend on how often you use it. But check the oil, many now have a sight glass in the gear box, and replace whatever you use to isolate the stainless bolts from the alloy casting.

When you deploy your anchor - take the load off the windlass, use some form of snubber and/or a chain lock. and when you retrieve - if you need to load the anchor to get it to release (a well set NG anchor) don't load it direct to the windlass. I really don't think you will damage the shaft, they seem bullet proof, but you may damage the seals stopping water getting into the gear box, which is the second most common complaint of windlass (and this is the fault of the operator, not the windlass).

Fortunately windlass seem remarkably resilient - but you don't want one to fail at an inopportune time.

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