Source for Proctor halyard sheaves

[JumbleDuck]

I am in in need of at least one and ideally two sheaves for the top of an old Proctor mast. 3" diameter (anything up to 75mm will do), 1/2" thick (13mm will do), 3/8" bore (9mm fine). The closest I can find is an acetal one from Allen Brother, A217, but I'd prefer alloy if possible. Anyone know of anyone still supplying bits for Proctor spars?

 

[Refueler]

I had a local metals guy make mine when replacing last year ...

I could ask him to make for you - but postal is crap between UK and EU at present ... If all fails - I can ask him ?

Are yours with a delrin centre or plain alloy ?

I also had to get him to make retainer plates that cover the sheave pins at base of mast ... but in the end used stainless bolts. The bolts and plates are in a box now.

New one in ...

Ignore the split you see ..... boat got skewed against high wall when we were raising mast and cap shroud got pulled causing the split. I keep meaning to have it repaired .... it happened back in 2011 !

 

[JumbleDuck]

Thanks. Mine are alloy with a tufnol bush. And one of them is sitting inside the mast with no possible way of getting it out save by cutting and welding. OK, a hint of operator error there, but also pretty lousy design.

 

[Refueler]

Offers there ....

Before I tried removing - I put a wire retainer round the sheeve just in case it decided to play hide and seek ! Mine were stuck solid top and bottom of mast .... took a lot of bad language to get them out.

Here's the mast bottom sheeves .... no wonder they didn't turn ..

I took the 'good' ones and cleaned up by placing flat against side of grinding wheel - to remove worst then polishing ... they went back in with a few thou less thickness and running free.
The new I had made - I asked the guy to make a few thou thinner but not so much to create problem for the rope.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Mine looked much like yours. I stuck 'em in the lathe and cleaned each face with emery paper and scotchbrite, faced off one overlong bush and driled out one over tight one. It's a bit annoying to lose one. However, I have ordered two of the Allen ones, which should do at least for a while, if necessary.

I have no bottom sheaves and no internal halyards. The main goes over a sheave at the back of the masthead, runs horizontally forward, goes round another sheave and then heads down the front of the mast, while the jib halyard does exactly the same thing in the opposite direction. It all seems like an unnecessarily complicated re-use of a masthead designed for four internal ropes. Next time the mast is down I think I will have it modified so that each halyard goes round a single sheave and down the side of the mast it came up, or perhaps just use blocks.

 

[Refueler]

Trying to remember my last external halyard boat - other than the weekender I have here as well ... there are times I wish present boat was such, there are times even with the distance to the house - I can hear halyards inside mast banging .. No matter how tight you make them.

Snap 23 .. Haven Lady ... main was up front .. down aft of mast ... genny was up front - down front of mast .. only internal was VHF antenna and because no internal halyard - and mast was off boat - I had to thread stiff fence wire all way up the mast ... ba*** job. Tried bike chain with mast lifted one end .. all sorts ... but the fence wire after cussing and stamping feet did it ..

Alacrity 19 .. Nijoy ... same all halyards external.

My spinny halyard - the tail I had on it broke when I was removing and putting light line in its place. Luckily during the sheeve work - the sheeves being out allowed me to use one of the existing lines to pull through two lines setting up ready to re-install halyards when completed.
If I had not internals - I probably would not have bothered reinstalling spinny halyard.

 

[JumbleDuck]

Trying to remember my last external halyard boat ...

In theory I like the idea, because replacing a broken or lost halyard ought to be easy. In practice it has been done really badly, because to thread a new halyard (without a mousing line) through the top of the mast requires both forestay and backstay attachments to be removed completely.

 

[Refueler]

Not so good .....

 

[Bodach na mara]

I have no bottom sheaves and no internal halyards. The main goes over a sheave at the back of the masthead, runs horizontally forward, goes round another sheave and then heads down the front of the mast, while the jib halyard does exactly the same thing in the opposite direction.

I had the same arrangement on the Proctor mast on my Primrose designed Commando. After the mast broke I replaced it with a Z-Spars kit one with internal halyards which drove me daft. When the boat rolled at anchor the halyards clanged against the inside of the mast with no way to apply policemen to stop it. Strangely enough that doesn't seem to happen in the mast of Sea Hawk.

 

[Refueler]

I had the same arrangement on the Proctor mast on my Primrose designed Commando. After the mast broke I replaced it with a Z-Spars kit one with internal halyards which drove me daft. When the boat rolled at anchor the halyards clanged against the inside of the mast with no way to apply policemen to stop it. Strangely enough that doesn't seem to happen in the mast of Sea Hawk.

Yep ... you got it ... You can tighten as much as you like ... but there's always one that will clang !

 

[JumbleDuck]

I had the same arrangement on the Proctor mast on my Primrose designed Commando. After the mast broke I replaced it with a Z-Spars kit one with internal halyards which drove me daft. When the boat rolled at anchor the halyards clanged against the inside of the mast with no way to apply policemen to stop it. Strangely enough that doesn't seem to happen in the mast of Sea Hawk.

My guess is that they had a standard top-end design and used that whether the line when down the inside or outside of the mast .