Source for glow plugs

colind3782

colind3782

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Thinking about changing the glow plugs on my Sole Mini 34 to improve cold starting but the OEM Sole parts are €45 each! (x4). I'm sure that when I was idly looking last year I found them, or a pattern, for about a tenner but I can't find the site now.

The Sole part number is 13127017. Anyone know of a supplier?
 
VicS said:
Many look pretty similar ... just like spark plugs do but has one of more of yours actually failed ??
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Haven't tested them yet. The boat is in Spain and I'm not. However, it can take up to a minute of preheat to start the engine when it's cold. Even in the summer it's about 15 seconds so I'm thinking it's probably a glow plug or connection issue. I'll check them when I'm out there to launch the boat mid-March and, if necessary, take some replacements out in April.

The engine is based on a Mitsubishi K4D, the same as the Thornycroft 80 so they should fit.
 
colind3782 said:
Thinking about changing the glow plugs on my Sole Mini 34 to improve cold starting but the OEM Sole parts are €45 each! (x4). I'm sure that when I was idly looking last year I found them, or a pattern, for about a tenner but I can't find the site now.

The Sole part number is 13127017. Anyone know of a supplier?
Click to expand...

You need to check them before replacing. They are not like spark plugs, where they get a little dodgy and new ones make the car start better. Generally speaking, they either work or they don't. You can check them with a multimeter, but a quick method is to take the positive wires off of all glow plugs take a piece of stranded wire, about 1mm-2mm csa, hold one end on a positive cable (starter cable ?) and briefly touch the other end on the positive connection of a glow plug. If the glow plug is working the current it draws will cause the wire to spark as you touch the glow plug. Obviously, take care with the live wire touching any bare metal of the engine.
 
PaulRainbow said:
You need to check them before replacing. They are not like spark plugs, where they get a little dodgy and new ones make the car start better. Generally speaking, they either work or they don't. You can check them with a multimeter, but a quick method is to take the positive wires off of all glow plugs take a piece of stranded wire, about 1mm-2mm csa, hold one end on a positive cable (starter cable ?) and briefly touch the other end on the positive connection of a glow plug. If the glow plug is working the current it draws will cause the wire to spark as you touch the glow plug. Obviously, take care with the live wire touching any bare metal of the engine.
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul
 
PaulRainbow said:
You need to check them before replacing. They are not like spark plugs, where they get a little dodgy and new ones make the car start better. Generally speaking, they either work or they don't. You can check them with a multimeter, but a quick method is to take the positive wires off of all glow plugs take a piece of stranded wire, about 1mm-2mm csa, hold one end on a positive cable (starter cable ?) and briefly touch the other end on the positive connection of a glow plug. If the glow plug is working the current it draws will cause the wire to spark as you touch the glow plug. Obviously, take care with the live wire touching any bare metal of the engine.
Click to expand...

Or a car headlamp bulb on a couple of leads. If the glowplug is Ok the bulb will light. 'swhat I have always used to check them on my diesel cars.
 
PaulRainbow said:
You need to check them before replacing. They are not like spark plugs, where they get a little dodgy and new ones make the car start better. Generally speaking, they either work or they don't. You can check them with a multimeter, but a quick method is to take the positive wires off of all glow plugs take a piece of stranded wire, about 1mm-2mm csa, hold one end on a positive cable (starter cable ?) and briefly touch the other end on the positive connection of a glow plug. If the glow plug is working the current it draws will cause the wire to spark as you touch the glow plug. Obviously, take care with the live wire touching any bare metal of the engine.
Click to expand...

Not entirely accurate. the spark test only assumes continuity. It is sometimes found the element has failed in the enclosure and is touching or welded itself to the casing. You may find when extracting them a void where this has happened, in severe cases they have been known to disintegrate. The only positive method is as Paul points out in the post is to check the resistance against the definitive.
 
third engines said:
Not entirely accurate. the spark test only assumes continuity. It is sometimes found the element has failed in the enclosure and is touching or welded itself to the casing. You may find when extracting them a void where this has happened, in severe cases they have been known to disintegrate. The only positive method is as Paul points out in the post is to check the resistance against the definitive.
Click to expand...

On my BMC 1.5, I measure the voltage drop across the cable that connects between the relay that powers the glow plug chain and the actual cable connection to the first glow plug. The voltage is measured with a sensitive moving coil meter. Full scale deflection indicates all four plugs are drawing current, 3/4 fsd means one plug down etc. I don't know the meter sensitivity off hand.

It is a useful technique for general current measurement rather than increasing the length of (a probably heavy) cable to make a detour via an ammeter. The problem is you need a milliammeter which will probably look out of place with the other instruments.
 
ghostlymoron said:
The simplest way to test them is to feel if the ends get warm when current is applied.
Click to expand...

Use an infra red digital thermometer on each glow plug. This is the type to use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Digital-...017825&hash=item3aa58da6b8:g:R54AAOSw1QpaR1VF (as an example only, no connection or recommendation).

Check the engine block temperature before starting. Then start the warming up of the glow plugs. If the glow plugs are working, each will show warmer than the metal nearby.
 
Graham_Wright said:
Mine, around 6 amps each.
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V=IxR, so 2 ohms each, 1/Rtotal = 1/R1 +1/R2 +1/R3 +1/R4 gives 0.5 ohms total circuit resistance 24 amps to go the long calculation assuming 12 volts. In reality with this load it may be slightly more than 24 amps, battery voltage will fall but hey ho we are not in the laboratory.

But to answer the original question, assuming we have the part number (try cross ref on the NGK site) it may be cheaper to source from motor factors.
 
colind3782 said:
Haven't tested them yet. The boat is in Spain and I'm not. However, it can take up to a minute of preheat to start the engine when it's cold. Even in the summer it's about 15 seconds so I'm thinking it's probably a glow plug or connection issue. I'll check them when I'm out there to launch the boat mid-March and, if necessary, take some replacements out in April.

The engine is based on a Mitsubishi K4D, the same as the Thornycroft 80 so they should fit.
Click to expand...

I have the 3 cylinder Mitsubishi (Vetus) and these glowplugs fit mine http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NGK-Y-114...ack-of-3-Genuine-NGK-Components-/322209531632

If your engine starts better with versus without using the glowplugs then they have not all failed. Therefore you just need to compare the resistance of each glowplug to see if there is one or more that is different. if they are all the same then the problem may lay elsewhere.

www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
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