Sorting leaks around sliding hatch Westerly Konsort

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FairweatherDave

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The woodwork rails supporting the sliding hatch and the woodwork around the edge of the hatch needs rebedding, or "resealing". I have removed the hatch garage to get access but I'm not sure I can remove much more. I am tempted to run a bead of CT1 or sikaflex where wood and grp meet....as I don't know how to remove the wood....if I could I would be putting down a bed of butyl tape/compound. P1010025.JPG
 
The sliding hatch which is not visible as removed, is a large flat surface .... a puddle can form which should drain off and away but what can happen is water travels forward and over a lip and into the hatch "garage". I believe some water is able to penetrate from the grey painted grp on the left hand side of the rail in the thumbnail pik. Any advice welcome! Note, the bead of sikaflex or whatever would be hidden with the hatch re-installed.
(PS I am aware of rebedding nearby deck fittings, inc the teak handrails and spray deflector as sources of leaks, but that is not what this thread is about :) )
 
The only real solution is to remove the rails and rebed them. The rails are almost certainly bolted through the coach roof (we have almost identical ones). The bolts will be hidden: countersunk and the holes plugged. Careful inspection will reveal the plugs that can be VERY carefully drilled out and replaced with new ones when you refit. You’re probably aware that you can buy the plugs, or buy a plug cutter and make your own from a scrap bit of teak.

My experience of running beads of mastic along the edge of fittings in an attempt to stop them leaking is that it doesn’t work.

Edit. Looking at the pictures aren’t those the holes where the bolts are without plugs put in them? You’ll need to remove the Headlining to get it the other side of course but they should unbolt and when re-bedded it will be a proper job.
 
Thanks both. The funny thing is the photos I posted I took in about 2015 when I was rebedding the teak grab rails and deflector. But I am back to the same position now with the garage roof off. I have been trying to work out how to remove the woodwork without breaking it and how to rebed properly and thanks John, you have encouraged me to a proper job. The headlining panels are down (and relined). I ran out of time on my last visit as I had used sikaflex instead of butyl on the garage, and that was a pig of a job getting it up. I am familiar with the little teak plugs that cover screw heads, and also the little grp bumps where Westerly glassed over their nuts....fortunately I haven't found any machine screws without "nuts". So next visit to the boat should be more very careful dismantling. I am encouraged!
 
Funnily enough I have just been into the murky depths of Facebook and totally by chance discovered a couple of brilliant photos of all the woodwork removed right back to grp and then reinstated, by someone called PH. Not my photos to share. But in his comments he found some very shoddy screws into nothing much. If I can dismantle rebed and reassemble to his standards I will be happy. Proper job.
 
Well the joys of Facebook....just made contact and got advice from the guy whose photos I found. So the woodwork joints should all be lap joints and once as much sealant and all the screws are removed it should all come apart nicely. I will update here with some photos and hopefully not tales of woe..... Feeling a lot more confident.
 
Seems you are dismantling, so this is likely even more redundant than it otherwise would be, but just in case...

I;ve had some success leak stopping around window seals on my ancient Taiwanese car usng sunflower oil, which stays liquid for long enough to wick between surfaces but eventually sets (by atmospheric oxidation)

In a less hot climate this might take too long, but linseed oil, "boiled" linseed oil, or perhaps Tung oil would all be quicker.

A snag with these "natural"materials is that they can grow mould, especially in enclosed damp spaces, such as behind headlining.

I would expect an alkyd resin, like Penetrol, or possibly a thinned varnish, to be superior in that regard, but I havnt tried them.

Unlike sealants, these should also tend to protect the wood as well as leak stopping.

When I last did this sort of thing, a very long time ago, I would have first flood coated with Cuprinol Clear wood preservative, but I dunno if the current formulation is worth using
 
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ducked said:
Seems you are dismantling, so this is likely even more redundant than it otherwise would be, but just in case...

I;ve had some success leak stopping around window seals on my ancient Taiwanese car usng sunflower oil, which stays liquid for long enough to wick between surfaces but eventually sets (by atmospheric oxidation)

In a less hot climate this might take too long, but linseed oil, "boiled" linseed oil, or perhaps Tung oil would all be quicker.

A snag with these "natural"materials is that they can grow mould, especially in enclosed damp spaces, such as behind headlining.

I would expect an alkyd resin, like Penetrol, or possibly a thinned varnish, to be superior in that regard, but I havnt tried them.

Unlike sealants, these should also tend to protect the wood as well as leak stopping.

When I last did this sort of thing, a very long time ago, I would have first flood coated with Cuprinol Clear wood preservative, but I dunno if the current formulation is worth using
Click to expand...

Why not just use Capt Tolleys ??

Trouble with natural 'oils' - often when in summer - the temp goes up - they can become sticky and ooze ...

Linseed Oil (boiled and filtered) - reminds of being a Cadet ... ugh !!
 
Pretty sure I wouldn't be able to get Capt Tolleys in Taiwan, whatever it is.

But of course now I can at least look it up, thanks...

...People seem to like it. SDS listed ingredients all seem to be preservatives, so dont give much clue as to whats in it (though one of them was named "contact allergen of the year" 2013), as is usual.

Maybe a latex or PVA suspension?

I'd probably try Penetrol first in preference, because it has more potential uses, but this stuff is reported to often work in this sort of application
 
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Yes, I am WOA but find the forum a bit rubbish.... things sink without trace. I thought I had posted there but no evidence now. Searched the technical articles and W Wiki.... The Westerly Facebook groups are more active and this time got me sorted. I find FB a bit random too. But like lots of people I try to avoid FB if I can help it....so YBW is first port of call.
 
Well I have got the wood rails off and central bar. The bar with the Westerly plate on had been fibreglass in position and needed my multi tool plunge saw, so that was a bit of work. The long side rails were easy by comparison. And revealed is the soggy balsa core in each corner. So the dismantling destruction we'll justified.....my rebed was well overdue. Now need temperatures for epoxy work.
 
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