Some Questions

G

gavin400

Well-Known Member
Joined
25 Aug 2009
Messages
426
Visit site
View attachment 37418View attachment 37420View attachment 37419View attachment 37417

Looked at a boat at the weekend, and it raised some questions (owner wasn't available to answer them):

The engine is a 2 cylinder Volvo (possibly around 1978 vintage) - could anyone identify the model and hp from the photos?

There is a bow thruster fitted, and there is an electric bilge pump in the compartment where the thruster tunnel is located - do bow thrusters leak/seep water?

The boat hasn't been used for 3 years and there is a 3/4 full tank of diesel - the engine started fine - should this diesel be removed and cleaned (I understand there are mobile fuel poilishing companies).
The tank is inaccessible, with no access hatches so has probably never been cleaned in its 35 year life.
It would appear that the fuel outlet is right at the bottom of the tank - possibly the worst possible location.

All thoughts much appreciated.
 
It might be an MD11C Not old enough I dont think to be an MD2B

but there should be an ID plate perhaps on the (port) side near the dipstick?

This page will lead you to manuals and specs and dates and pictures http://www.volvopenta.com/volvopent..._engines/Pages/out_of_production_engines.aspx


Fuel will OK if free of water and "bug" At least with the outlet on the bottom you dont get much of a buildup of water in the tank!
 
Those engines are built like the proverbial brick privvy If it starts well, has plenty of umph and doesn't smoke when warm, it's probably fine. Cold start is by overfuelling, so a cloud of smoke when starting from cold is normal, but should clear quickly. However, they are getting a bit long in the tooth and some spares may be a problem, so I'd have the possibility of a replacement in the back of my mind when making my offer.

I have no access to my tank, but the outlet is in the side, which allows a worse buildup of crud than your setup. After a very inconvenient engine failure caused by a blocked filter in a lumpy sea, I got a couple of spin-on filter holders from a car breaker and set them up in parallel with taps so I run on one filter and have the other primed and ready to go, so I can swap filters in a few seconds.

If you do buy the boat, since the tank's a bit of an unknown quantity, you might want to have a similar setup. Total cost was about £60 (this was a few years ago, but I'd still expect change from £100 today.

I wouldn't expect a bow thruster to leak. If it does, it may be an hour's work between tides to fix, or it may be a new thruster, but I'd regard a bilge pump in that compartment as no more than good practice. From the photo, either it hasn't been leaking over the last 3 years or someone's been very busy with the Mr Muscle!
 
Last edited:
It looks a lot like my MD2B. Interesting to see that it is not painted Volvo green in places, this may mean that it has been worked on at some time, perhaps reconditioned. From my experience (and a few others) it may be a better idea to buy a boat with a replacement engine. Some of them go for the same kind of prices. If you go ahead with this purchase then factor in the cost of a replacement engine in the future. There are several threads about the perils of buying a boat with an old engine!
 
The engine hour meter reads less than 900 hours - don't know the accuracy of that, and am aware that lack of use is not necessarily a good thing
 
Yep, it stopped working at 900 hours and hasn't been fixed! Or it could mean the engine has only done 900 hours - does it work when the engine runs? Or it could be that it stopped working at 700 hours, the engine ran for 3.000 hours and the meter was fixed 200 hours ago - take your pick!
 
gavin400 said:
The engine hour meter reads less than 900 hours - don't know the accuracy of that, and am aware that lack of use is not necessarily a good thing
Click to expand...

I don't think the original Volvo Penta installation for that engine be it MD2 or MD11 would have included an hours meter. 900 hours could merely be the hours it has run since the hour meter was fitted.
 
VicS said:
I don't think the original Volvo Penta installation for that engine be it MD2 or MD11 would have included an hours meter. 900 hours could merely be the hours it has run since the hour meter was fitted.
Click to expand...

I hadn't thought of that! Another way in which the engine hours meter should not be trusted, can anyone think of any more?
 
It would appear that the fuel outlet is right at the bottom of the tank - possibly the worst possible location.
Click to expand...
or not! outlet at the side of the tank can cause problems if low on fuel and motor sailing on the wrong tack.
ie with the outlet on the high side!
Although the fuel outlet is right at the bottom of the tank, it will probably have a small vertical tube inside the tank to stop water and sludge being sucked out.
 
gavin400 said:
View attachment 37418View attachment 37420View attachment 37419View attachment 37417

Looked at a boat at the weekend, and it raised some questions (owner wasn't available to answer them):

The engine is a 2 cylinder Volvo (possibly around 1978 vintage) - could anyone identify the model and hp from the photos?
.
Click to expand...

Looks like an MD11c

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2T3_lv75JY

The engine looks like it might have a number of reconditioned items so might be fit for another 40 years and might not..
Major parts are difficult to get should you need them. The engine compartment does look pretty clean for an old Volvo .

The engine should have a starting handle so pretty easy to get an idea of compression using this.

Wind the engine over a few times decompressed and then winding quickly drop one compressor and see if you can keep turning the engine.
A very good one will stop with a hard bounce and keeping pressure on the handle will take some time before you can get it over compression.
An engine with bad valves and worn rings/bores will have a very soft stop and will continue to turn slowly with continued pressure on the handle. If you have this on either cylinder then beware as you will probably need a head job or two in the near future.

Did the owner not offer an explanation to the units of different colour??? You could be lucky but if not then it could cost up to £8000 to fit a Beta less what you can do your self and less what you get for the old engine.


I agree as others have said that the bilge pump up forard is good practice and for those just in case moments.


It seems the water injection point has been moved so at least from the engine to the water trap is a dry well insulated exhaust.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Other threads that may be of interest

F
Non starting outboard
Replies
4
Views
230
spannerman
S

Share this page

Top