Soldering EPIRB replacement batteries

S

Sailfree

Well-Known Member
Joined
18 Jan 2003
Messages
21,678
Location
Nazare Portugal
Visit site
Bought the correct 3V lithium Ion batteries but they came with conventional battery cap type ends not a tag set in Wax and I cannot get the solder to take on these caps.

Need to connect wires and Diodes etc.

Obviously concerned at heating the battery too much.

An option is to drill a small holer in the caps and use a small self tapper to make the connection.

Anyone managed the solder route and how did you manage it please?
 
Would be extremely concerned with your proposed idea of drilling holes /self tappers (sheer bodgery) . If it were for a torch or something used in a non critical role - maybe - but for the EPERB - NO; would only want the correct battery as per manufacturers spec all soldered correctly using tabs on contacts.

Personally, would prefer to send EPERB back to manufacturers for service
 
[ QUOTE ]


Personally, would prefer to send EPERB back to manufacturers for service

[/ QUOTE ]

Look its no good you stating that now after I have bought the batteries following a thread on here a few months ago stating how easy it was to replace them on the same model that I had!!!

How did they solder theirs??
 
What power soldering iron are you using? I've soldered direct to NiMh AA batteries using a 30W iron and it was just powerful enough. The more powerful the iron the faster you can do it and the less chance of heat damage.

BTW there's a lot of energy in these batteries. Suggest wearing eye protection.
 
Done it several times.

1) use fine emery paper to clean terminal and to remove plating.

2) use good flux to again clean surface of terminal

3) use a good "high" power soldering iron to get heat into terminal quickly.

4) ensure tip of iron is clean and tined with solder before applying to terminal of battery.

where did you get your replacement batteries from I found several suppliers including RS and others cheaper in the US.
 
[ QUOTE ]

where did you get your replacement batteries from I found several suppliers including RS and others cheaper in the US.

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for advice - will try that and more powerful soldering iron.

I went onto a UK web site IIRC they are shaft batteries made in USA. Total cost about £33 including delivery.

Stick stuff that holds them together is a bit of a b!! I intend to replace that with equally stickly stuff tape supplied to put electric underfloor heating down - appears very similar.
 
Could also try using a 'tinmans' soldering iron (big lump of copper heated with a gas flame) - often found in car boot sales now - but still very useful when a lot of heat needed.

Works well soldering the braid of pl259s so should help here
 
I had a similar experience recently replacing the 3v lithium in my garmin gps12.
Be warned this is dangerous. I used a very hot bolt and flux cored solder. I had the problem that the solder would not "take" to the Stainless of the battery I had a very lucky escape, as I turned away for a second the battery exploded leaving a dent in the ceiling and burnt lithium and pieces of solder scattered around the kitchen. Obviously too much heat applied. I believe the old terminals were attached with a very fine weld.
Anyway the solution I used was to attach the wires with plastic tape. It seems to be working ok.
 
Thanks for warning.

Soldering activities will now be transfered from Kitchen to Garage.

Going to rub down terminals and flux them first and see if I can "tin" the surface first without attempting to solder a connection. Will check whether ends are SS as well in case special flux is more appropriate.

No one said any of this on previous thread!!
 
I would agree with others re. risks of soldering. For a less critical application I would go along with Spyro's idea and just use tape; if properly done and good tape probably OK for an EPIRB too, but if it's your last line of defence...

The best solution would be to clean the terminals and the wires then attach them using conductive glue (silver loaded epoxy). This is not cheap, e.g. RS 496-265 @ £25.35 + VAT, and it takes 24hrs to set, but would undoubtably give the best result. Of course if you know someone in the electronics business you might be able to "borrow" some.
 
[ QUOTE ]
I would agree with others re. risks of soldering. For a less critical application I would go along with Spyro's idea and just use tape; if properly done and good tape probably OK for an EPIRB too, but if it's your last line of defence...

The best solution would be to clean the terminals and the wires then attach them using conductive glue (silver loaded epoxy). This is not cheap, e.g. RS 496-265 @ £25.35 + VAT, and it takes 24hrs to set, but would undoubtably give the best result. Of course if you know someone in the electronics business you might be able to "borrow" some.

[/ QUOTE ]

What about the pencil tubes of stuff they sell for repairing car rear window demister elements, thats a conductive glue. Would that work?
 
I would suggest be vary carefull with conductive glue. I suspect the resistance will be relatively high for a circuit used for power supply. Even in the case of repairing window demisters this is intended to be resistive. So check first.

I wonder if some research when buying the batteries might not have found the same batteries with tags that are are spot welded on. (ala Nicads) good luck and be careful olewill
 
I have done this type of job using a high power soldering iron.

Firstly, the battery HAS to be wrapped up in a cloth to stop any explosion causing injury. As you won't be able to hold the soldering iron, battery and solder and wire all at the same time, the battery, wrapped in a cloth, is best held gently in a vice or a suitable clamp (mole grips).

Secondly, the terminal which is to be soldered HAS to be cleaned properly using wet & dry and a suitable flux applied.

The Iron has to be at MAXIMUM heat even BEFORE you even think about appling it to the job and it must be on the terminal for as little time as practical. I use a 100Watt Gun style type if the job can be done indoors and I have a Butane Gun for jobs afloat where there is no 230volts available.

One the job is completed, the battery HAS to be cooled, I use a damp sponge for this job as heat from the terminal will creep into the battery possibly causing damage to the internal components and/or chemistry. The cooling stops only when there is no heat remaining and the battery is cold.
 
I agree with most of the suggestions and add

I used a thin blade screw driver pressed hard on terminals to effect deep scratches in two directions, it stops the solder running off and gives a key.
 
How did they solder theirs??
*******************************

I expect they bought the correct batteries with solder tags hence no problems!!!!


/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif


Anything here?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top