Solar panel for a Centaur hatch cover

[Dougie_the_Mate]

Our solar panel is beginning to show signs of wear and tear (old age really). Is it possible to simply fit a new panel to the hatch cover while still using the existing wiring?

 

[Daverw]

Cannot see why you cannot cut the existing wiring and join on the new if panel is of similar size

 

[William_H]

I would suggest you fit an amp meter (moving coil analogue) to just see if your existing panel is supplying current. It may be ok but then again it might be cream crackered. ol'will

 

[Stemar]

No reason I can see for changing undamaged wiring, though getting a waterproof connection will need some care.

I have some to do later today. I tried the heatshrink/glue/solder connections. but my trusty rope end sealer didn't have enough umph, and the blowlamp toasted everything. I'll take the hot air paint stripper and try that. If I'm not happy with the result, I'll solder the wires and spray with silicone before putting ordinary heatshrink over the joint. Someone will be along in a minute with a better way; it I think it really is a better idea, I'll steal it.

If the panel's showing signs of old age, it sounds like a flexible one. It might be worth checking how the cost of rigid panels mounted on an aluminium angle frame compares with the flexible ones. Rigid panels tend to be more efficient than flexibles, and have a longer life. I did that on my last boat, and it worked well - and was still working when I sold her 8 years later.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

Most panels come with MC4 connectors on them now. You might be able to attach these connectors to your existing wiring if it's suitable. They need a special crimp tool, but they can be bought on ebay for less than tenner. Connectors are about a pound per pair in bags of 4, also on ebay.

Hand Crimping Tool Pliers Compatible with MC4 PV Solar Cable Crimper LS-2546B | eBay

4 Pairs TÜV Certified Solar DC Cable Connectors compatible with MC4 - Free Post | eBay

 

[Dougie_the_Mate]

Thanks for the advice chaps - I will assess the current state of the panel before taking action.

 

[Stemar]

I have some to do later today. I tried the heatshrink/glue/solder connections. but my trusty rope end sealer didn't have enough umph, and the blowlamp toasted everything. I'll take the hot air paint stripper and try that. If I'm not happy with the result, I'll solder the wires and spray with silicone before putting ordinary heatshrink over the joint. Someone will be along in a minute with a better way; it I think it really is a better idea, I'll steal it.

OK, scratch that plan! It was too cold and windy for the hot air gun to melt the solder properly or to get the soldering iron hot enough to solder directly, so I used crimp connectors and flooded everything with PTFE spray to chase the damp off. I'll see how long it lasts, but it should do better than the previous choc block (in the chain locker ), which managed 20 years. If my job lasts 20 years, it won't be my problem.

 

[AngusMcDoon]

...so I used crimp connectors and flooded everything with PTFE spray to chase the damp off.

Why not spend £14 and do it properly with MC4 connectors? It takes minutes and isn't difficult.

 

[Stemar]

I may well end up doing that, but I didn't have any at the time. I've got a lot to do and limited time and even more limited energy to get it all done. At least the connection is now fixed on top of the motor, so it won't be dangling around the wet rope

 

[AngusMcDoon]

I've got a lot to do and limited time and even more limited energy to get it all done...

Ah, ok. I understand that. So much to do, so little time to do it!