Solar deck connector

[dune16]

I was just at the point of drilling a hole in my deck for the standard Bulgin front panel mounted socket when I realised the thickness of the deck may be an issue. The standard bulgin socket says max thickness 5.2mm. I just measured and the deck is likely to be pretty much 5.2mm (or worse). I am now holding off drilling the hole as I don't want to be left in a situation of an open hole in the boat and no suitable connector. I've had a look on the Bulgin site and they do "Explora" series and this is up to 7mm thickness so that will work but..... I just added up the cost of the socket, plug and sealing cap (for socket when not in use)..... Cheapest I can find (RS components), £86.98!!! That seems rather steep to me. Any other good options or do I just have to pay? haha. Thanks.

 

[stuartwineberg]

Not sure what model of plug but I have a Moody with extremely thick decks. I drilled the hole, passed the cables from inside to out, made the connection and then fixed the socket to the deck with pu40. If I have understood properly, the deck thickness is irrelevant unless you need to gain access to the connecting screws afterwards. I did have to splice short lengths of thinner cable to the solar leads in order to fit the Bulgin screws. Also in my opinion it is better to have the socket fastened to the panels and the male on the deck to avoid risk of a dc shock from the panels. To do this I swapped the cores of the plug and socket. I am sure others will have different opinions but hope this helps. I notice that this is a spin off from a thread I started a while back so I can confirm that the setup has worked extremely well all season.

 

[dune16]

Not sure what model of plug but I have a Moody with extremely thick decks. I drilled the hole, passed the cables from inside to out, made the connection and then fixed the socket to the deck with pu40. If I have understood properly, the deck thickness is irrelevant unless you need to gain access to the connecting screws afterwards. I did have to splice short lengths of thinner cable to the solar leads in order to fit the Bulgin screws. Also in my opinion it is better to have the socket fastened to the panels and the male on the deck to avoid risk of a dc shock from the panels. To do this I swapped the cores of the plug and socket. I am sure others will have different opinions but hope this helps.

The deck socket I have (pic attached) has a threaded ring that you're meant to screw from underneath to clamp the socket in place. Did you not use the ring and just glued it or do you have a different socket? Thanks.

 

[stuartwineberg]

Indeed different. It was this one

 

[Mistroma]

I fitted my deck panels about 10 years ago and wanted to be able to move them around if required and also avoid a loop of wire sticking up out of the deck.

I used over-specced H07RN-F to provide flexibility, UV resistance and minimise voltage drop. I found a low aspect deck gland with a side exit. It has a a slightly extended bulbous shape that isn't very high and cable exits parallel with the deck. I think it was from Index marine, very poorly advertised and not often stocked. It has all worked very well for more than 10 years. I remove the panels every winter and that's a quick job using a sealed box underneath the panels.

I think the side entry gland is one of these Side-entry Waterproof Cable Glands
Index make a variety of sizes in 2 colours and the side entry keeps the cable close to the deck.

I use a Bulgin plug & socket for the panels on the arch at the stern. It has also been fine and wasn't very expensive. The pins get a wipe with Contra-lube at the start of each season. It stick up from the deck and would be a liability on a flat area of deck. Mine is in a niche beside the coaming and an upright support for the arch.