Solar Arch

[Pete7]

I don't know what the minimum is.
On the one hand, if it gets abused you might want it to be atleast as strong as the balcony balustrade posts on a house which are about 40mm?,
OTOH, everybody's sprayhood and grab rail are 3/4 or 1 inch at most?
If you can do tube bending in 3/4 or 1 in stainless that would be good to know!

Thanks for some ideas!
If anyone wants a cheap (and nasty?) fitting to clamp to a tube look at 'cable cleat'.

We used something similar to attach the solar panels to the stainless tubes. The metal is mild steel so I had them chromed. That didn't work despite filing the edges round, they are starting to show signs or rust, so will need to go back and make some more out of stainless or aluminium over the winter:

RS PRO Single Tube Clamp for 25mm tube | RS

 

[Pete7]

If you can do tube bending in 3/4 or 1 in stainless that would be good to know!

Sorry but I don't think this is a DIY option. You're likely to break a copper pipe bender or buckle the stainless steel tube.

I did need two curved pieces to join the transom. It was a problem until I saw someone selling a yacht pulpit on e bay for £30. That gave me enough curved bits to joined the down tubes and the transom with some careful measuring. Pipes were joined with aluminium rod filed down to an interference fit and glued with epoxy.

 

[PCUK]

I don't know what the minimum is.
On the one hand, if it gets abused you might want it to be atleast as strong as the balcony balustrade posts on a house which are about 40mm?,
OTOH, everybody's sprayhood and grab rail are 3/4 or 1 inch at most?
If you can do tube bending in 3/4 or 1 in stainless that would be good to know!

Thanks for some ideas!
If anyone wants a cheap (and nasty?) fitting to clamp to a tube look at 'cable cleat'.

Thanks for the info'. My bender is 1 inch which also manages 25mm. The only problem with it is the price of different sized die sets which are £500 plus a set so I'm reluctant to offer anything other than 1 inch tube fabrications!

 

[PCUK]

Sorry but I don't think this is a DIY option. You're likely to break a copper pipe bender or buckle the stainless steel tube.

I did need two curved pieces to join the transom. It was a problem until I saw someone selling a yacht pulpit on e bay for £30. That gave me enough curved bits to joined the down tubes and the transom with some careful measuring. Pipes were joined with aluminium rod filed down to an interference fit and glued with epoxy.

That's a great solution! I often find it is easier and cheaper to buy pre-formed bends and used items and then re-use them as you did.

 

[PCUK]

I know it's not the same but the principle is there. This is the Targa mast I am currently building for my own motor boat in one inch SS.

 

[rogerthebodger]

PCUK

My tage as pictured above is 50mm x 2 mm thick The support frane over my cockpit is 38 mm x 1.5 mm thick

The minimum dis\a depends on the thickness of the tube.

If us use schedule 40 tube you could use 32 mm but it also depends on the bracing

My bender will bend up to 25 mm and I quite regularly bend up to 22 mm by hand I just need an long extension as I an quite long in the tooth now

For 50mm you could use weld bends or go to an custom exhaust supplied to have the bends done.

 

[PCUK]

That's a seriously robust piece of kit. I do use formed bends on occasion but for that sort of job I think bent tubes would be better, and quicker.

 

[B27]

My solar panel lashed to the backstay has been tested by Storm Antoni today.

Just realised that any frame has to be fairly easily removeable, or able to take the weight of the mast when it's down.
Mulling a few ideas involving adjustable frame works, what telescopic aluminium stuff is readily available etc.

By the way, the answer to 'the ketch problem' might be to put the panels on the boom?

In the winter I had my trickle charge panel on the top of the boom, worked a treat, out of the way and negligible shading.

 

[Pete7]

My solar panel lashed to the backstay has been tested by Storm Antoni today.

Just realised that any frame has to be fairly easily removeable, or able to take the weight of the mast when it's down.
Mulling a few ideas involving adjustable frame works, what telescopic aluminium stuff is readily available etc.

By the way, the answer to 'the ketch problem' might be to put the panels on the boom?

In the winter I had my trickle charge panel on the top of the boom, worked a treat, out of the way and negligible shading.

Are you planning on storing your mast on board? if so that is quite an additional load. I know when I had the standing rigging replaced, I took the opportunity to inspect the mast in detail. I did try to lift one end off the trestles and couldn't. It was all I could do to roll it over. Its perhaps 45ft.

Could you not store it under the arch if you were doing the French canals or similar?

Pete

 

[B27]

Not planning to do canals or anything, but the mast will need to come down at some point, and I won't want it moving too far from the boat, as I will likely be using a cheap slightly chaotic boatyard.
Yes if the arch is high, mast could go under.
It's lighter, only about 10.5m I think, but still a lump to put on the middle of an arch.
Would be no problem if you were looking for the 'real cruiser combined solar arch and dinghy davits' concept but I'm looking for a light, cheap solution.

 

[Pete7]

but I'm looking for a light, cheap solution.

Me too which is why we are both posting in PBO

Try this: Bei Facebook anmelden Buy yourself a sewing machine and you could have a full canopy by next Spring.

 

[B27]

I could probably either store my other boat under that canopy, or re-purpose some of the bent ali tubes in their chairs...

 

[Pete7]

I could probably either store my other boat under that canopy, or re-purpose some of the bent ali tubes in their chairs...

How big a set of panels were you thinking of?

Or this? if it doesn't work then its hardly a huge loss. Quite like the idea of carbon fibre poles though.

Bei Facebook anmelden