SOF Marseille to Croatia delivery trip

[BartW]

on arrival was one of total satisfaction...

absolutely, it felt as if we had circomnavigated all europe

I was also sorry to hear about the damage, just unfortunate, but easily repaired I'm sure. It could have been so much worse and you arrived safe and sound with much to look forward to.

yes this is peanuts in the total sheme of things, and we are very gladd that we got there safe with this old lady, without any issue's that would compromise our summer season. (touch would as the summer holiday hasn't started yet !)

 

[BartW]

As promised here some info about Porte Montenegro, for those who want to come here, or for those who are looking for a marina in this region of the med.

We have finished our 8th week stay here at Porte Montenegro as homeport
Until know we are very pleased with the place, even so that we changed our booking here for a berth from one season to 3 years !

Porte Montenegro
Is a brand new port, build on the remains of a old Yugoslavian submarine harbour,
With money from 3 western private investors (boating people) I forgot their names
They try to get as much as possible cooperation from the government, and live in peace with them,
And cooperate fe on refurbishing the area’s around Tivat and Porte Montengro.
They apply very high standard on protecting the environment.

Tivat used to be a small city, with a little tourism,
But gradually the village is growing, and smoothly and fysically connected with PM,
A nice boulevard with white stones and Palm threes is prove of that.
Approx. 500 ppl from in and around Tivat have a job in PM,
Many local small businesses are setup around the marina.

Porte Montenegro itself is a small marine village, and as far as I know, most of the residential apartments are sold.
They are now building again a new complex with high class apartments around a swimming pool.
The new buildings have a nice styling, much use of Dalmatian natural white stone, and other variants in stone walls and floor decoration.
Although it is all new, it’s not boring, they used a lot of variation in the structure and the finishing of the houses.
They also used many trees, schrubs and flowers to decorate the village,
On the big quays are palm threes
A team of gardeners permanently keeps it all looking nice and clean.

The marina had a total of 450 berths, and space for the biggest super yachts.
For this year they planned expansion of 250 more berths, but only now at the end of the season, the works reach their final stage
And boats are starting to occupy the new berths.
Works have been going on all summer, but didn’t disturb our stay in the marina.
Originally I had booked a berth in the new part, but because the works weren’t finished in time, Luckily I got a nice berth in the existing part, right in the center, near the super yachts.

The marina
Is well equipped, electric and water is charged but at a very low price
Internet is free and very good speed (better then my 3G modem, this caused me some hassle the first weeks of our stay, and need to change sim card in Croatia)
There are many wifi antennas on each quay.
You can also get a fibre connection to your boat, when you need high bandwidth for your work fe. (150 euro/month)
On the quay’s are connection points for hoses for emptying the black tank, the service is foc.
Waste can be disposed (separated) in nearby containers hidden in nice small houses

In PM village are all accommodations you can expect for boating people;
There is much to do for crew permanently living in the marina, sports club, gym, pub, cinema, etc…
In the village are
Restaurants, pubs and bars, small supermarket, trendy clothing stores, boat chandler, boat sales and rental brokers,
Hair dressers, wine and ice-cream shops, laundry, etc etc,
And all according a high quality standard (and price class)
Compared to local, the prices in the PM village are expensive, but compared to hot places in SOF they are cheap,
Fe for 50 euro pp we had a nice meal including wine and starter.
In old town Tivat are also many shops and restaurants, some are very good, and much cheaper
and we had there a very good dinner for 20euro per person !!!
price for one bread in PM is 2.5 euro, and in Tivat it is 0.6 euro.

In the marina are all kind of boat maintenance and cleaning services,
But if you can find the right local people, you can have services at very low rates.

End of august the new 5 star Regent hotel opened her doors here.
The hotel takes a prominent position in the Marina, and looks very chique outside as well inside.
The hotel was already well occupied during the first weeks of her opening.
We looked at the menu from the restaurant, and some dishes are over 100 euro !

As a berth holder we are very well treated by the staff.
At “the office”, young girls take care of your booking and accounts, or any general enquiries.
The yacht assistance team, takes care of all your paperwork and customs duties, they join you and bring you with the golf caddy to harbor master, police and or customs.
you can do customs paperwork while the boat is on her berth when you plan to leave the country or come from another country (Croatia fe)
and Then there is the docking staff, who helps you with the mooring or other technical issues, electric connection, etc,
all very young people (students), and very friendly and helpful.

Russians,
Yes there are quite some Russians around here, (most of the residents are Russians and serbs)
But boat and berth holders are from everywhere,
On my quay are owners from Germany, UK, Austria, Switserland, Holland, Belgium, Croatia, Serbia, Montenegro, and Russia,
But honestly we have no problems with them so far,
And this is confirmed by people from the marina, aswell as other captains I speak with.
For us it is difficult to distinguish Russians from the locals, as their language sounds very similar.(although there is a big difference according the local people)

And still there is a majority of British crew and captains on the boats, a little too much to my liking :-D
We have a lovely young cooking lady onboard this summer, her dishes are far above expectations,
(but unfortunately not of the Italian standard that we have experienced quite a few times onboard of BA ;-) )
she’s from Dubrovnic, and that helps sometimes finding our way between the locals.

There are security people everywhere in the marina,
They are mostly female students, and are always very friendly.

Places to go
Imo this is a fantastic cruising area,
Only the bay of Kotor, is the most southerly European fjord; places like Kotor and Perast are extremely nice and interesting,
The views are breathtaking.
And as it is sourrounded with high mountains, you can almost always visit these with the boat, independent weather conditions.
In winter you can see snow on the tops.

Then further out of the bay, you can stay in Montenegro and visit more south:
Budva, Sveti Stefan, Petrovac, Bar, etc..
Or you can go north, and cross the border with Croatia in Cavtat, (27 Nm from Tivat)
5 miles more north is Dubrovnik, the pearl of the Adriatic, for some; one of the nicest old towns in the world !
And then you have a succession of approx. 1000 islands on the Croatian coast,
Mljet, Korcula, Hvar Brac, etc…
takes years to discover and visit all of them !

From PM you could also go to south Italy; Brindisi is 120 Nm and Sicily about 300 Nm
Or you could go to Corfu (200Nm) or Greece, etc…

Other marina’s / harbours in the area,
There are a few nice ones,
In general are more expensive then in SOF, but nevertheless some are interesting.
As a comparison, For my size, 21m, in SOF the price is 150 euro for one night on average

Montenegro:
Kotor, VERY nice, 75 euro for a night. You could consider here a permanent berth at half the price of PM !!
Budva, party village, 265 or 370 euro (main quay) for a night
Tivat PM, price tbc
Herceg Novi, price tbc

Croatia:
Cavtat, my favourite port !!!, 280 euro for a night (unless you know people ;-) )
ACI Dubrovnic, don’t know the price, a little bit old, too far from old city, and lots of mosquitos (fresh water)
Dubrovnic Gruz, (main port, also for ferry's) price 200 euro
ACI Korcula, 185euro
Old town Korcula, OK, but 265 euro for a night
Hvar, 180 euro for a night and good relations, or a biggggg tip for the guy who can get you a place in high season.
Between the islands you have zillions of nice anchorages, mostly foc.
In many places you can get a berth Foc in front of restaurant

Tax free fuel,
you can get here in the PM fuel station, but you must leave the country immediately, leave to Croatia Cavtat fe,
This is all very well organized; the fuel station does the paperwork for you
I paid this season 0.77/liter /4000l including a small commission for the PM fuel station for doing the paperwork
I have 2 sources for alternative deliveries from trucks, but didn’t try them yet, heard horror story’s about bad quality, etc… And you have to make an appointment near a customs office.
I’m now very good friends with the person in charge in the PM fuel station, which helps when you have a urgent change of plans, weather, ..
In the high season you need to reserve your fueling a few day’s in advance !

Paperwork Is a hassle
In Montenegro and Croatia you always need a passenger and or crew list from the people onboard.
Every time you change passengers you need to go to a harbormaster and have a new list stamped
On top of that, each time when you leave one country and go in to the other, fe Montenegro to Croatia,
For exit one country You need to pass Harbormaster, police and customs, and again for entrance in the other country, Harbormaster, Police and customs.
Passing customs in Croatia; almost every time they asked for the VAT papers of the boat (it’s a hot topic over there)

for a commercially registered boat like mine, it is even more complicated,
you can never start a charter in Croatia (there are now solutions but they cost money)
so guests always have to embark in Montenegro. (or outside Croatia)
In one occasion my daughter and her friends landed in Dubrovnik airport, had to come with a taxi to Tivat PM, and only then we could sail out from Montengro to Croatia Cavtat (near that airport).
I have heard story’s from boat owners who were not allowed to step on their own boat in Cavtat….
So for this reason its better to have a privately registered boat in Croatia, then you can do what you want and change passengers, as long as you have that registered at the harbourmaster,
Even that has now become less important on privately registered boats, as many of the Croat ministers carry women onboard that better don’t show on passenger lists ;-)

In Montenegro you need notarized power of attorney, or authorization that you have command over and can use the boat (in case she’s owned by a company)

how to get there, you can fly to
-Tivat (5 minutes drive to PM) I believe there are regular flights from London,
-Podgorica 1h40 drive, 90 euro taxi ride
-Cavtat/ Cilipi / Dubrovnik Croatia, 1h45 (if your Lucky passing border quick) 110 euro taxi ride, they have flights all year from many destinations



What are the negative points here (so far):

- For me the distance from home; in SOF was 1000km I could go there easily by car, take stuff and friends with me for working on the boat,
Now (2000km) its always’s by airplane, (or friends drive a car and come separately with stuff…)
- The trip from Tivat to Cavtat (27Nm) is a little boring. (coast is mainly rock’s)
I have to change registration from the boat to private, then I don’t always need to sail back to Tivat for changing guests.
- The language, and Croat people are not always friendly, the Montenegro people are much more friendly !
Young people and staff in the marina mostly speak good English
- And the bureaucracy; stay calm while doing the paperwork and when one office has coffee break unexpectedly…. (not in PM)
But you have to take account that you lose time with this.

Here a few pics

This is the Venice square, now full with Riva’s Chris crafts, Fraucher, etc..
Foto’s were taken in June, sorry no sun then

The regent hotel was not yet ready then

For more pics of google images Porte Montengro, more and better then I have, some are renderings, and some are real,
Real looks much the same like the renderings

Taken from my cockpit,
We are very close to the big crane on the main central quay, symbol of the marina,
The Maltese Falcon in the background (other side of the main quay ) leans to one side due to very strong wind at that moment.

In the bay of Kotor, near Perast

Taken from the top of the Kotor city wall ,
At the end of the small quay, on the rights side is BA

Google Kotor images to see the city in all its glory

And Cavtat
First (and smallest) boat on the quay is BA

Will try to make a full report later, about our adventures this summer in this region.

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Thanks Bart, you've whetted my appetite further. We have done our summer in N Sardinia and will be leaving our boat in S Sardinia for the winter. Then in Spring next year we intend to move to PM so save a berth for us! I look forward to your full report.
Btw overnight moorings in Croatia may be expensive but not as expensive as N Sardinia. I was asked for €515/night (+ water and electricity!) in Porto Rotondo a couple of weeks ago although I managed to get a discount. With regard to getting tax free fuel in PM, when you say 'leave the country', does that mean you must go to another country or can you just motor out into the Adriatic outside the 12 mile limit? What is the price of fuel in Croatia now? I have been paying €1.70-1.80/litre in Italy and that really hurts

 

[BartW]

Then in Spring next year we intend to move to PM so save a berth for us!

OK I will warn the marina

With regard to getting tax free fuel in PM, when you say 'leave the country', does that mean you must go to another country or can you just motor out into the Adriatic outside the 12 mile limit? What is the price of fuel in Croatia now? I have been paying €1.70-1.80/litre in Italy and that really hurts

Yes you need to go to a destination outside Montenegro, and this is written on your passengerlist, so in order to keep your paperwork "clean" you are obliged to do it.
The fuel station told me a story of a boat that went to Budva in Montenegro instead of Cavtat Croatia,
police got them, and they got a penalty.
The Fuel station is very keen on "perfect" paperwork. with stamp and all that (you need a stamp from your boat)
the guy is a very nice chap, he's greek.

you can also go to Italy or any other destination outside Montenegro.

I'm not sure about fuel price in Croatia, I believe still between 1.3...1.5 euro
most of our time is spend in Croatia, but alway's fuel from PM

and we still poodle about 30 to 50% of the time, when we 're not in a hurry,

 

[MedMilo]

Very interesting and informative report, thanks v much. PM looks very good indeed although the paperwork sounds a bit dull! Our boat is private and will be UK VAT paid and it sounds as though this will simplify things somewhat. Diesel at that price will be a real treat and to add to Mike's question - do you simply need to fill up, motor out of Montenegrin waters and then back in to PM? Hopefully the whole (dyed?) tank doesn't need to be used outside Montenegro! We tend to arrive and head off for a week or two but it's sometimes good to have a few days pottering out and back for day trips - are there many good day anchorages around PM? Bay of Kotor would appear to be an obvious one but not sure about anchoring/swimming/skiing etc for teenage kids there?

 

[BartW]

Very interesting and informative report, thanks v much. PM looks very good indeed although the paperwork sounds a bit dull! Our boat is private and will be UK VAT paid and it sounds as though this will simplify things somewhat. Diesel at that price will be a real treat and to add to Mike's question - do you simply need to fill up, motor out of Montenegrin waters and then back in to PM? Hopefully the whole (dyed?) tank doesn't need to be used outside Montenegro! We tend to arrive and head off for a week or two but it's sometimes good to have a few days pottering out and back for day trips - are there many good day anchorages around PM? Bay of Kotor would appear to be an obvious one but not sure about anchoring/swimming/skiing etc for teenage kids there?

there are no conditions on quatities for the fuel, or where you use it,
fe you could fill your tank in PM, sail to Cavtat for a lunch and come back to PM, but realise that this would take you almost one full day,

they are very concerned about spillage in th fuel station, you have to sign a safety certificate, etc..
recently they flouded a few hundred liters of diesel in the sea
it was the captains fault, but the fuel station got the penalty several thousend euro's.
new rule is that you're only allowed to fill your tank for only 85%, but they are flexible on that when they know you.


Bay of Kotor has several nice anchorages,
some are pitoresc or have a nice vieuw, some near a restaurant or village,
and almost all of them are good for waterski
some of the boat owners here only do day trips and stay in the bay and watersports all day.
there never is a swell as in the open ocean.

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

O
I'm not sure about fuel price in Croatia, I believe still between 1.3...1.5 euro

Blimey, it was about €1.10 last year. Seems like EU entry has gone to their heads

 

[alt]

Nice one Bart, great pics as always. Good to hear that you're liking your new port so much that you're extending your stay to 3 seasons!

 

[jfm]

BartW, many many thanks for all the great information and pictures. I really enjoyed reading that update. Glad you had (or are still having) a great season. One of these days I'm going to get myself round to the Adriatic (under my own stream; I've chartered there twice)

 

[MapisM]

Many thanks B for your update, very interesting and informative as always.

Just a couple of comments:

OK I will warn the marina

LOL, don't hold your breath.
Deleted User still must experience how the weather and sea can look like in Oct in S Sardinia - not to mention local food and wine.
I have a funny feeling that he might well consider to delay his arrival for another season...

From PM you could also go to south Italy; Brindisi is 120 Nm.

On a more serious note, whenever you are in the mood to make a cruise to IT, I'd rather go West than South, heading towards Tremiti Islands.
It probably takes another 10 or 20 NM, but you won't find a better/clearer sea anywhere else in the Adriatic - and with beautiful dives also.
Just avoid Jul/Aug, but right now and at least for another month (as well as in May/Jun), they are well worth the trip!

 

[AndieMac]

Many thanks B for your update, very interesting and informative as always.

Just a couple of comments:


LOL, don't hold your breath.
Deleted User still must experience how the weather and sea can look like in Oct in S Sardinia - not to mention local food and wine.
I have a funny feeling that he might well consider to delay his arrival for another season...

Crikey MM, Deleted User is only human, he won't stand a chance of wanting to leave (assuming your marina?) after sampling S's magnificently prepared local cuisine, local wine and marina fees

Btw, does your lovely wife realise how many references are made on this forum regarding her culinery expertise? .....

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

LOL, don't hold your breath.
Deleted User still must experience how the weather and sea can look like in Oct in S Sardinia - not to mention local food and wine.
I have a funny feeling that he might well consider to delay his arrival for another season...

I look forward to being persuaded

 

[Deleted User YDKXO]

Crikey MM, Deleted User is only human, he won't stand a chance of wanting to leave (assuming your marina?) after sampling S's magnificently prepared local cuisine, local wine and marina fees

Btw, does your lovely wife realise how many references are made on this forum regarding her culinery expertise? .....

We have already been fortunate enough to sample Mrs Mapism's expertise in this area and Mr Mapism is indeed a fortunate man

 

[AndieMac]

We have already been fortunate enough to sample Mrs Mapism's expertise in this area and Mr Mapism is indeed a fortunate man

Thing is, he's been married so long he must have forgotten how ordinary people prepare food. Some folks are just spoilt!

 

[AndieMac]

Thanks for the extensive, informative report Bart, look forward also to any other cruise reports from the good ship BA and her crew.

 

[MapisM]

Crikey MM, Deleted User is only human, he won't stand a chance of wanting to leave (assuming your marina?) after sampling S's magnificently prepared local cuisine, local wine and marina fees

Btw, does your lovely wife realise how many references are made on this forum regarding her culinery expertise? .....

LOL, nope, I don't think she does, 'cause she never looks at the forum.
And neither I'm willing to tell her, TBH. She might get a big head, you know!
Btw, among all friends of ours, even in this little island, she's actually just about average.
You might remember the dinner we had at M&P home, just as an example....
Apropos, best regards from them. We spoke of AndieMac family just a couple of days ago, while explaining them our plans for the Tas+NZ trip.

PS: nope, not my marina. I think Deleted User is looking at Cagliari, which is indeed more convenient for anyone thinking to fly from abroad and be onboard asap, without bothering with an almost one hour car transfer, plus the ferry. But also in Cagliari, weather/sea/food/wine is pretty much comparable, and it's near enough to catch up now and then, anyway.

 

[Cozzy]

Thank you BartW for taking the time to compile and post such a comprehensive report.

You obviously have great passion for your "old lady" and I can imagine you giving her a little pat on the shoulder saying "well done"

I really enjoyed reading and look forward to the next chapter.

 

[scubaman]

+1 to everything above. It is indeed great to see people enjoying their boats and it seems that you are making pretty good use of yours. Good on you, E and BA!