Small amount of oil on water surface when KAD43 leg operated

[DavidJ]

Hi
When I took the KAD43 leg up and down (only a couple of units on the meter) to test a few days ago I noticed a little oil on the water.
When you you hear the motor bottom out (not a great description but you probably get my drift) is it normal to exhaust a little oil?
I‘m guessing not.
What maybe the potential problem?

 

[Greg2]

Possible a ram seal leaking? Alternatively, it is possible that there was a little un-burnt fuel sitting in the exhaust and it came out when the leg was operated.

 

[BruceK]

seals on the ram. I could spend hours now telling you horror stories, broken friendships, tears sweat and frustration. Or I could offer you a brand new pair, never used before rams if yours are too far eroded for a seal change. the latter is the easy out if you can grab it. The former wont save you any anguish, but will a few pennies. And of course is the correct repair as opposed to an aftermarket bodge. Unless of course you plan on offloading thoes woes to the yard mechanic who wont hold prisoners and insist on an engine out while financing his new porshe. I'll pin this here and leave you to mull over it

 

[Momac]

Could be nothing. A little oil or diesel goes a long way on water.
Check the ATF in the trim pump reservoir to see if its cherry coloured . If it's like strawberry mikshake that would be a concern.

 

[DavidJ]

seals on the ram. I could spend hours now telling you horror stories, broken friendships, tears sweat and frustration. Or I could offer you a brand new pair, never used before rams if yours are too far eroded for a seal change. the latter is the easy out if you can grab it. The former wont save you any anguish, but will a few pennies. And of course is the correct repair as opposed to an aftermarket bodge. Unless of course you plan on offloading thoes woes to the yard mechanic who wont hold prisoners and insist on an engine out while financing his new porshe. I'll pin this here and leave you to mull over it

Thanks Bruce
I fear you and Greg are right. The legs are 2002 vintage DPA’s which I hadn‘t mentioned, is this the same as the rams you are offering?

I need to do some further investigation as Martyn suggests. I don’t think I have any noticeable oil loss from the reservoir so could be a “live with” problem but I will check the colour.
Of course I’m now back in the UK, boat‘s in Spain.

 

[BruceK]

DPA? That's an odd paring for a KAD43. No, unfortunately mine are the new type

https://images.app.goo.gl/rEJRnKnf9LMA9JLY7

 

[BruceK]

DPA? That's an odd paring for a KAD43. No, unfortunately mine are the new type

https://images.app.goo.gl/rEJRnKnf9LMA9JLY7.jpg

 

[madabouttheboat]

Thanks Bruce
I fear you and Greg are right. The legs are 2002 vintage DPA’s which I hadn‘t mentioned, is this the same as the rams you are offering?
View attachment 131877
I need to do some further investigation as Martyn suggests. I don’t think I have any noticeable oil loss from the reservoir so could be a “live with” problem but I will check the colour.
Of course I’m now back in the UK, boat‘s in Spain.

That one pictured is from earlier 290 legs. In 2002 I would have expected to find DPE legs, and these have the round ends.

 

[madabouttheboat]

Can’t see the pic Bruce has linked to, but suspect yours to be more like this

 

[DavidJ]

Ahhhhhhhhh!
You are all right
My engine is KADP-A
The leg is DP-E 1.78
…..so my pic is wrong, sorry.
So Bruce the question is are your rams suitable? Your pic isn’t working for me.
I believe part number 3860881. Madabouttheboat‘s pic looks right.

 

[BruceK]

Yes. My RAMS are suitable

 

[BruceK]

Background to them. I tried to reuse the hydraulic pipes that had been slightly bent on dissasembly. Don't make that mistake. Replace yours too. Otherwise you can strip the cylinder threads just by finger tightening. Which is what I did. As the boat was being lifted back into the water I bought another two and had these ones resleeved and tapped by Dragon hydraulics. In the end the dawn things cost me over 750 a piece. You can get yourself a pair at good discount here Keypart
But mine go for 350 a piece. PM me if interested.

 

[DavidJ]

Background to them. I tried to reuse the hydraulic pipes that had been slightly bent on dissasembly. Don't make that mistake. Replace yours too. Otherwise you can strip the cylinder threads just by finger tightening. Which is what I did. As the boat was being lifted back into the water I bought another two and had these ones resleeved and tapped by Dragon hydraulics. In the end the dawn things cost me over 750 a piece. You can get yourself a pair at good discount here Keypart
But mine go for 350 a piece. PM me if interested.

Thanks Bruce, realistic price.
I‘m not going to the boat for another couple of months so will check back if they are still available. I guess if the corrosion levels are not too bad (which I doubt after 20 years) I may attempt a seal replacement, which I guess can be done without removing the pipes.

 

[QBhoy]

Likely the issue is as suggested above…but thought I’d add an optimistic but less likely thought…has the drive just been serviced or props been off and on ? If so..it could be grease.

 

[DavidJ]

Likely the issue is as suggested above…but thought I’d add an optimistic but less likely thought…has the drive just been serviced or props been off and on ? If so..it could be grease.

Nice thought and I wish it was true but no service for over a year.
Greg suggested it could be residue from the engine startup…….I’ll hope for that.

 

[Sianna]

First thing is to determine whether it's ram fluid or engine oil. As it been said before, if ram fluid the signs are cloudy red / oil and water reservoir, plus your trim not holding true and dropping all the way -4 on the gauge whilst underway.

Do you leave the outdrive down or lift when moored up?

I found out on my DPE's the hard way that leaving the the drive up caused crap / crustaceans / something to stick to the exposed piston rod, the next time I dropped the drive, the crap was pushed past the seal and tore it.

I wouldn't bother with ebay seals, I tried that and they were useless, leaking worse than before, I did manage to get an original VP seal kit eventually which solved the problem. It's not a difficult job and the pistons can be removed with the rams left in place (boat out of the water obviously)

There are plenty of tutorials online about rebuilding the rams too.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Rebuild+Volvo+Penta+Trim+Cylinders

 

[BruceK]

Thanks Bruce, realistic price.
I‘m not going to the boat for another couple of months so will check back if they are still available. I guess if the corrosion levels are not too bad (which I doubt after 20 years) I may attempt a seal replacement, which I guess can be done without removing the pipes.

if the endcaps are not so corroded you can still get them off without shearing then you have a good chance at seals only. The trick is to do them befor the endcaps are FUBAR even though you replace them. Good luck, and yes mine will still be around.

 

[DavidJ]

Thanks Flip & Bruce
My leg is down all the time even when at sea. For the S37 it seems to be the most efficient setting. Any other position reduces the speed. I only use the tilt for cleaning the props (I can hang over the bathing platform) and for times when I nearly run aground and saving the leg!!!!
Almost tempted to put my head in the sand.

 

[BruceK]

you cant. One day otherwise you will select reverse and the drive will come up and punch a hole right through your swim platform screaming FEED ME SEYMOUR!

 

[simonfraser]

I used a titanium end cap removal tool with a longer handle welded onto the tool
wedged it onto the end cap by lowering the leg and the use of some U shaped offcuts of wood
laid under the boat and they came off no prob