Slipping Singlehanded

[Janpierce]

I frequently sail singlehanded and have developed a method of slipping warps when leaving a berth that alows the Skipper to remain in the cockpit controling the engine and rudder.
Like many useful gizmos the idea is very simple, as follows :-
Rig the last warps to be slipped with a bowline passed thro the CENTRE HOLE in the associated dockside cleat. Pass a short (12") rigid plastic tube thro the bowline loop so that it remains secured and cannot escape from the cleat, a short length of waste pipe works fine. Tie a long cord, (from the cockpit) to the pipe through a hole previously drilled. Allow about 2ft spare at this end of the cord and use this to clip onto the warp such that when the cord is pulled the tube is pulled out of the bight first and then the warp is pulled inboard so as not to foul the prop.
I have used this when reduced to two warps to slip succesfully in adverse wind or tidal circumstances. Motoring on the final line to spring the bows off, after which I put the drive in neutral to relax the warp tension. A quick jerk of the slip cord and the boat is underway.

 

[Talbot]

Alternatively use your trusty bosco boathook with the wire strop rigged on the slip line, attach it to centre cleat and motor against it. remove all other ropes. When ready to go, just yank the slip line and away you go.

 

[LadyInBed]

Why not just double up the lines then loop them over the pontoon cleats /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[cliff]

[ QUOTE ]
Alternatively use your trusty bosco boathook with the wire strop rigged on the slip line

[/ QUOTE ]Well said young man just don't try the same with a "duck", they tend to break. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[Guest]

Sounds a workable idea and you obviously have found it so ....

I have one binding reservation for this sort of work - I would never have any loop or other knot / hitch etc. in an end that is going to be let go. Even "clean" ends have flipped and wrapped on cleats when letting go - Malcb will second that !!

I prefer doubled lines back to working point ... and when letting go ... reduce to shortest possible before letting it go - do NOT throw or try to "whip" line off ... letting it go and pull through naturally normally ensures clean get away. Throwing or "whip" to get it free ... can cause a turn to catch on the cleat ashore.

Any loop or knot in a rope can catch or lock under a ridge / board / other hazard just waiting to catch the unawares !!

As to use of hooks / other implements - great .... but if you are exerting that much pressure on a fitting plastic or otherwise that it breaks in normal weather / depart berth situations - you are doing something wrong IMHO

 

[Talbot]

so that would be quacked? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

 

[cliff]

Or quackered depending on how one looks at it.
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"Artificial intelligence is no match for natural stupidity"
sailroom <span style="color:red">The place to auction your previously loved boatie bits</span>

 

[Xpat]

Interesting to hear how others approach the problem of leaving a berth single handed. What method do you use when returning?

 

[Malcb]

I made a fixed length line that can be attached via a clip to a shackle fixed just about amidships on the toerail. The line finishes in a spliced loop which is supported by a length of hosepipe (to keep the loop open). the total length is sufficient to prevent my bow hitting the end of the pontoon when I moor up.

This is the first line to go on and the last line to take off. When it is over the cleat, by just putting the engine into forward gear, and adjusting the tiller, it holds the boat perfectly alongside, enabling me to connect/disconnetct the mooring lines.

I use a boat hook to place the loop over the cleat, and a boat hook to remove it from the cleat.

Total cost to make, under £10

 

[webcraft]

Right at the start of my yachtmaster prep course I was shown a brilliant self-slipping spring line for wonderfully slick escaping from berths when pressed on by the wind - single handed bow springing to bring the stern through the wind then away we go, no crew required.

Second time I tried it, whoops, there goes that stanchion . . .

If anything can go wrong it will . . . if anything can get caught round anything it will . . . KISS is still the best principle.

- Nick

 

[whisper]

If it's my regular berth I just walk out of the side door of the wheelhouse and grab an already made up short line and wrap it around my centre cleat. Then I can do all the others at my leisure.
If tying up to a new pontoon berth then I get as close to it as possible and lassoo an appropriate cleat on the pontoon and tie it again, to my midship cleat.
Leaving single handedly is normally just a case of letting go all ropes, with the short midship one being the last, then push off.
It is of course a great help being able to quickly walk through the wheelhouse from one side to the other. The midship cleat is one step away from the wheel, on the stbd side, 3 from the port one.

 

[Spuddy]

Similar for me, Nick. It was Ronnie McInnes in Troon and was an arrangement known to boy scouts as highwayman's hitch. Worked a treat on the course. I was showing it to a friend with stiffer shorelines and it wouldn't free; ripped the dodger rather than a stanchion before I got it to trip. With a bit of prep it would work though and could be more reliable than the clueless crew.

 

[Xpat]

I use the same method using my midship cleat but haven't got round to holding the loop open with hosepipe yet, thanks for the tip.

 

[Xpat]

I use the highwayman's hitch when leaving my tender for short periods but don't think I would trust it enough it to hold my boat alongside under power.