Slightly milky sterndrive leg oil!

kennyh

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I’ve been changing the transmission oil in the leg on a DPH leg and the oil has drained slightly milky. There was no obvious water layer and the full volume of oil has drained.

On my last trip I lost the hub on the rear prop which caused the two duoprops to grind together. I’m guessing I may have hit something that threw the hub of balance.

The big question is whether I need to get the leg stripped rebuilt or whether it’s possible that the oil is contaminated as the seals where slightly dislodged when I hit something / lost the prop hub; could it have been a transient thing or should I get the whole thing off and rebuilt?

I’m up the west coast of Scotland and thus logistically getting a leg strip / rebuild does cause some logistical problems.

Any wise words / thoughts on this?
 

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Momac

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I would say Volvopaul is your man if you can get the leg to him.
But I am not his agent so don't take my word for it.
 

mil1194

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I had a milky experience some years ago and it was just a seal and bearing replacement. I don’t remember it being particularly expensive (in the scheme of things)
The problem could be a worn/grooved shaft …more ££££’s

fair enough - but it definitely needs addressing before it gets any worse.
 

Greg2

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As already said, that is not slightly milky so the cause needs to be identified. Not necessarily eye wateringly expensive - we have had similar with previous boats and it hasn’t been a major drama - but it does need sorting.
 

Portofino

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Is it Volvos own oil ? They reckon there own has a special additive package to some what mitigate water ingress , kinda keep up the lub and anticorrosive side as best possible.
Thing is in a 356 day change out cycle you don’t know how long the gears / bearings etc have been swilling around in that stuff .

This is a moot point on here .The none OEM oil users claim obviously there cheap Halfords gear oil , or what ever is just as good ? Or VP are just masters @ marketing.

Suppose it will need a pressure test and basically all the seals replacing.May as well do the other too for good measure .It might not be far behind age wise .

My techs when I had outdrives used to every two yrs at bellows change remove the leg take it into a engine shed and disassemble it , measure tolerances , reassemble with fresh seals and pressure test over night before refitting to the boat .

They looked after a lot of OD s maybe 6-8 legs at any one time - on the go - being “ serviced “ like that .They did find odd bits / parts out of spec and replaced for me .

I never had milky oil in 9 seasons .Or importantly any breakdowns .

Begs the question when do you change seals , o rings etc ?
1- wait for issues inc milky oil…..go from there ?
2- routinely ( when the legs off for bellows ) based on experience of minimising customer breakdowns in season + inevitable hassle that brings ?
 

Momac

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The oil is fully synthetic which is more tolerant of water than mineral oil.
A pressure and vacuum test can be carried out but it does seem probable new seals will be required.
With a bit of luck there will be no harm done.
 

Portofino

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The oil is fully synthetic which is more tolerant of water than mineral oil.
A pressure and vacuum test can be carried out but it does seem probable new seals will be required.
With a bit of luck there will be no harm done.
It’s the additive package that differs .Volvo claiming there’s is better dealing with water ingress .Equivalent weight gear oil from a car parts supplier isn’t formulated for water ingress .

Also issues with “yellow metals “ in gearboxes of classics ( not found I think in OD legs ?) …….same rationale the expense stuff has additive packages the cheapo nil .VP might have some fancy chrome or what ever toughened gears sensitive to something that needs there additive package ??? Just putting it out there be careful choosing oils in this case drive oils against the manufacturers advise .Try and find manufacturer approved lubricants .

Its always the additives or lack of with oils .There’s a thread revived here with a useful post #45
Engine Oil Change

Any how wonder what oil that is ? In the pic ^ .
 

Sianna

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Looks like mine, shaft and selector seals replaced and 12 months on all fine, you can pressure test to see where your leak is but it needs sorting asap.
 

kennyh

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Just an update on this old post…..

The leg was removed and pressure vacuum tested with no fault found (by a trusted marine engineer).

It was refilled with oil and reinstalled.

I’m going to change the oil in a few days so wish me luck!!

Ps. I did loose a prop hub last year so I’m hoping that there was an intermittent seal issue that caused the (potential) water ingress that sorted itself out.
 

simonfraser

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Just an update on this old post…..

The leg was removed and pressure vacuum tested with no fault found (by a trusted marine engineer).

It was refilled with oil and reinstalled.

I’m going to change the oil in a few days so wish me luck!!

Ps. I did loose a prop hub last year so I’m hoping that there was an intermittent seal issue that caused the (potential) water ingress that sorted itself out.

so, how did the water get in :unsure:
 
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