SL Anchorman Windlass

[Hugohove]

I believe that this is a Simpson Lawrence Anchorman Manual windlass. I'd like to grease it but can't work out how to open it. I'd also like to know how to use it! I did download a manual from the SL website but it assumes some prior knowledge.

 

[Tranona]

Put a winch handle in the centre and unwind it anticlockwise. The gypsy will then come off, but will probably need a bit of persuading.

 

[sailorman]

Put a winch handle in the centre and unwind it anticlockwise. The gypsy will then come off, but will probably need a bit of persuading.

will be better to put the handle in the other socket & turn anti clockwise to unscrew the top plate :encouragement:

 

[agurney]

will be better to put the handle in the other socket & turn anti clockwise to unscrew the top plate :encouragement:

and use the pawl to lock it in position when trying to release.
Diagrams & info here: http://slspares.co.uk/instruction-manuals-pdf.php

 

[Hugohove]

Thank you for your replies. The off-set socket doesn't appear, from the windlass itself or from the exploded diagram, to engage with anything within the windlass. Is it solely intended to provide leverage for the winch handle? The gypsy pawl is currently seized in the open position. It will respond to a sharp knock with a hammer but I'm reluctant to use brute force in case it results in damage.

 

[charles_reed]

Thank you for your replies. The off-set socket doesn't appear, from the windlass itself or from the exploded diagram, to engage with anything within the windlass. Is it solely intended to provide leverage for the winch handle? The gypsy pawl is currently seized in the open position. It will respond to a sharp knock with a hammer but I'm reluctant to use brute force in case it results in damage.

Use plenty of penetrating oil to free up the pawl.
Then use a PTFE spray.
I too, in 26 years, have never found my way into my SL Anchorman and with a WinchMate electric winch-handle have found it an ideal means of recovery in winds of below F4.

Mine has no centre, but only an offset winch hole. That allows one to use various levels of leverage.
Nothing like the photo posted.
Being all bronze it's quite long-lived - I anchor about 150 times a season.

 

[duncan99210]

Looking through the SL manuals, there are two,versions of the winch: with and without capstan. The capstan version has both an offset hole on the top plate and a central socket. The central socket is threaded, loosening it frees the clutch. Looking at the parts diagram, this will allow you to removed both the gypsy and capstan.

 

[RIBW]

You may find this website helpful
http://humbletravel.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/strip-down-anchor-winch-externals.html
Cheers
Bob

 

[agurney]

Thank you for your replies. The off-set socket doesn't appear, from the windlass itself or from the exploded diagram, to engage with anything within the windlass. Is it solely intended to provide leverage for the winch handle? The gypsy pawl is currently seized in the open position. It will respond to a sharp knock with a hammer but I'm reluctant to use brute force in case it results in damage.

Use the offset socket for leverage; use the pawl as a jamb; turn anticlockwise to remove the cover.

 

[Hugohove]

I engaged the gypsy pawl and squirted lots of WD40 into the windlass before trying to wind anticlockwise, without success. I may need to wait another 24 hours to allow the oil to penetrate. The handle I'm using is the Barton sheet/halyard winch handle and I'm not sure it's sufficiently robust for this job.

 

[Contest1]

Just sorted mine out. The center opens the clutch. The outer socket is additional leverage and prevents over tightening the clutch.
The gypsy runs free with the clutch released.
Didnt need to open the unit further.

 

[Hugohove]

Thank you all for your input. WD40 and a good shove with my foot finally did the trick.