Skin fittings: when do you replace them?

Skin fittings: when do you replace them?

  • Every 2 years (regardless of conditions)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    46

MapisM

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The recent debate on this matter, together with a chat I recently had with a boating mate, inspired me a small poll.
I'm very curious to see where the consensus is - if any....
Choice explanations are also welcome, of course! :encouragement:
 
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There isn't really a suitable answer for me - the answer is that I replace them if I buy a boat and discover that it has brass ones, whereas DZR or bronze fittings I expect to last indefinitely.

Pete
 
That’s what I did after purchase , had them all and cocks replaced with DZR .
While they were at it had all the black hoses in the ER replaced .
Obviously piece of mind ,but secondary I,ve got a file of nice invioces to hopefully beat down any attempts of refutement of a claim if the need arises by an insurance Co .
Cos they are 2015 vintage now , it’s not somthing I think about .
Mentally there’s a lid on that box .
So I am gonna decline the poll. But watch with interest .
 
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Nothing wrong with using DZR, but note the R means 'resistant', NOT 'proof'. DZR are still brass and severe galvanic or stray current issues can still cause DZR to fail, therefore they should still be inspected for pinking, which is the external visual indication of de-zincing.
 
Your insurer expects you to undertake thorough maintenance, or it may decline a claim.

Surveyors say every 7 years or so you should remove your skin fittings and valves for inspection and only re use them if they are in very good condition.

The reality is that the cost as well as the time and effort is in the removal and re fitting. You may as well replace them at 7 years with new DZR as this is easy to demonstrate that your maintenance was thorough.
 
Your insurer expects you to undertake thorough maintenance, or it may decline a claim.

Surveyors say every 7 years or so you should remove your skin fittings and valves for inspection and only re use them if they are in very good condition.

The reality is that the cost as well as the time and effort is in the removal and re fitting. You may as well replace them at 7 years with new DZR as this is easy to demonstrate that your maintenance was thorough.
Is that Surveyors (All) or A Surveyor once said it to you ?

I have never had a surveyor tell me that and would certainly question it as a necessity just every 7 years.

Surveyors will certainly make many statements many of which are IMHO to protect their Professional Indemnity insurance premiums, but may not mean they are an absolute requirement.
 
Many surveyors, I am in the trade as well as a keen boat owner.

Saw a yacht that partially sank due to a failed heads skin fitting and valve, major claim only partially paid by ins co due to inadequate regular inspection and maintence.

We change out a lot of corroded, jammed, failed and leaking skin fittings and valves, brass is a scandal and the youngest I have seen fail is at about 3 years but there were other electrical problems.
 
fwiw,
we are in the process of replacing the skin fittings and valves, from engine's and genny intake,
after 26years almost permanently submerged, they all appear still in good condition, no corrosion, all solid quality bronze,
but the reason why we replaced the whole lot was:
looked all worn; sticky valves, no spare strainers available, slightly damaged cover screws on the strainers,...

my conclusion; give it all a thorrough yearly inspection, (or asc a specialist todo that)
yards will alway's choose the "no risc solution" = replace,
 
P What are you going to do/have done with the fittings on your "new" boat?
Almost nothing, P.
I had just the valve of the a/c raw water pump replaced, because it was right under the freezer condensation drain, and over time it corroded for that reason, even if just superficially.
Btw, I also moved the freezer from the lazarette to the crew area (now refitted as utility room), so I'm now expecting it to last as all others, i.e. a LOT!
All other bits (Guidi bronze stuff, fwiw) show no reasons to be concerned.

Thanks everybody, it's nice to see such an overwhelming consensus for the same approach that I always followed - i.e. the first of the above options.
The debate with that boating mate was about a yard who suggested him that after 5 years everything should be replaced regardless of conditions.

Btw, does anybody know if such rule (or any other) exist for commercially registered boats?
That's the only benefit of the doubt that I would give to the otherwise rather biased yard suggestion... :rolleyes:
 
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Almost nothing, P.
I had just the valve of the a/c raw water pump replaced, because it was right under the freezer condensation drain, and over time it corroded for that reason, even if just superficially.
Btw, I also moved the freezer from the lazarette to the crew area (now refitted as utility room), so I'm now expecting it to last as all others, i.e. a LOT!
All other bits (Guidi bronze stuff, fwiw) show no reasons to be concerned.

Thanks everybody, it's nice to see such an overwhelming consensus for the same approach that I always followed - i.e. the first of the above options.
The debate with that boating mate was about a yard who suggested him that after 5 years everything should be replaced regardless of conditions.

Btw, does anybody know if such rule (or any other) exist for commercially registered boats?
That's the only benefit of the doubt that I would give to the otherwise rather biased yard suggestion... :rolleyes:

Good news. Bronze = good.........:encouragement:
 
Without wishing to spook anyone, is my memory correct and someone once posted a message on here that their sea-cock snapped off when closing it, despite it looking fine from the outside?

I must say, I'm always happier closing the sea-cocks on my boat when the crane is operating!
 
Without wishing to spook anyone, is my memory correct and someone once posted a message on here that their sea-cock snapped off when closing it, despite it looking fine from the outside?

I must say, I'm always happier closing the sea-cocks on my boat when the crane is operating!
What is the relevance of a crane Pete?
 
Yep, the crane reference stumped me too. Then I guessed maybe P had underwater work done on hardstanding and wanted to hold in slings on relaunch until it was all checked out. I did that once and had to relift.
 
I still don't get it.
My understanding of petem train of thought is as follows:
1) seacocks can snap off upon closing, so rather than take the chance, I leave them always open while the boat is in the water;
2) otoh, in order to test them at least occasionally, I wait till the boat is on the slings (or on the hard, I suppose). This way, if one of them does snap off, it's no big deal.

One could wonder whether it's better leaving the boat unattended (possibly for long periods) with all seacocks open, or take the snap off risk. Each to their own, I guess...
 
My understanding of petem train of thought is as follows:
1) seacocks can snap off upon closing, so rather than take the chance, I leave them always open while the boat is in the water;
2) otoh, in order to test them at least occasionally, I wait till the boat is on the slings (or on the hard, I suppose). This way, if one of them does snap off, it's no big deal.

One could wonder whether it's better leaving the boat unattended (possibly for long periods) with all seacocks open, or take the snap off risk. Each to their own, I guess...

On the right tracks. In my mind, the worst thing that can happen is that the valve / fitting snaps off when exercising it or closing it when leaving the boat. So I prefer to exercise or close the seacocks when the lift is operating so that I could get a quick lift out if the worst occurs.

Perhaps this is calls for a What Now Skip? What would you do if it's 10pm on a Sunday night, in a foreign country and you close a seacock to find that it comes off in your hand leading to a two foot high fountain or water erupting and the bilges taking on water very quickly?
 
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