singlehanded sailing

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What adaptations do you make to the rig of a sailing yacht to make it suitable to be sailed by one person? I think it's sails small enough for one to handle comfortably, a self-acting jib plus making sure everything is arranged so as to be easily accessible from the cockpit.

I stress rig - certainly not going to sea in her, so not enquiring about navigation/steering over long distance, or endurance. Just want the convenience of having my little yacht set up for one to sail in case no-one else wants to come.

Any views on the advantages or pitfalls? I realise safety is an issue. How do you handle things like mooring/casting off? And how does the self-acting jib work in practice? Have always sailed boats with loose-footed ones.

Have done a search on the subject - but all posts detail epic transatlantic voyages, not pottering about on inland waters, as I intend to do.

Thanks, as ever, for all responses.

PS - Silly me, forgot to mention. Yacht is 24-ft Bermudan sloop



<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by The_Fruitbat on Thu Feb 21 16:15:25 2002 (server time).</FONT></P>
 

billskip

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I sail single handed..gibsaea 126 ketch..its not so difficult ..as allways give yourself plenty of time and you also must be more alert..definatly get an autopilot
as it can give you a lot of help at times ..as for mooring/anchor/pick up buoys etc you will find it ok but must be done with engine which takes a bit of fun out of it...give a lot of time to decide how you are going to do things ..practice makes many cockups....

Bill
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A self tacking jib shouldn't be necessary unless you're really doing a lot of tight tacking - although maybe your are if you're on inland waters. Likewise sail area isn't particularly critical provide winches etc. are up to the job. Singlehanding shouldn't be physically significantly more demanding than day sailing with an inexperienced crew. In fact in many ways it's easier.

The main requirement is that you should be able to reach both mainsheet and genoa sheet while steering. I find tiller steering a big advantage since you can steer if necessary with your knees if hands are busy with sheets etc.

To state the obvious, some form of ability to maintain a course (ideally self steering) while you're otherwise engaged is a big plus.

My boat for example didn't need any modifications to enable her to be sailed singlehanded. Except for agreeing it in advance with the insurance company.

Coming into marina berths hasn't proved a problem (yet), though low freeboard/windage is an advantage.
 

Trevor_swfyc

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Agree with previous post get a Autohelm 1000, virtual must have.
The more controls from the cockpit the better, main uphaul, Kicker, topping lift, reefing lines.
I think the key to single hand sailing is planning and preparation. Practice each aspect, letting go of the mooring, picking up the mooring, sailing, getting sails up & lowering sails.
Have everything that will be required to hand no good trying to find the boat hook as you approach your mooring.
Before I let go of the mooring I connect up GPS, Autohelm, run the engine, remove sail cover main & Genoa which is roller reefed. Put in place winch handles, flag, tiller extention, boat hook, horse shoe buoy (I know theres nobody to throw it but it looks good) Tie the tender to the mooring buoy, think what have I forgot oh yes the depth gauge turn that on. Let go of the buoy only when all is clear, I have a pick up buoy so I try to get this in the tender, as its easier to pick up on my return. Back up the boat from the tender and buoy until you can see its clear of the boat. I always put the sails up when in open water well clear of moorings, the autohelm in control. Maintaining head to wind, slow ahead ensures no problem with battens getting snagged on the rigging. Genoa is no problem being roller reefed.
On return the sails are taken down well before the mooring area, the autohelm allows me plenty of time even to put the sail cover back on.
Picking up the buoy, nobody to blame when it goes wrong, watch how other boats are linning up approach your buoy from the same angle. If you have the angle correct you can approach very slowly stop at the buoy with boat hook in hand slowly walk forward and pick up the buoy from the tender, if you have to rush more practise is required, secure lines engine off, brew on.
The more times you do it the easier it gets.
I find the problem is when I have a crew, I still try to do it all on my own, must practice deligation!
Have fun
Trevor.
 

wrr

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I sail a 27ft LOA (inc bowsprit) 4.25 ton displacement cutter singlehanded. The cutter rig does mean an extra set of sheets while tacking but the jib on a furling gear provides fine control so that I can pick up my mooring under sail. I have also picked up pile moorings under sail against a favourable tide. Slow controlled approaches are essential and I often stop on approach and slowly put on way again. 4 tons plus can easily pull your shoulder out of its socket! Having a reliable engine ticking over in neutral adds to confidence.
A pair of midships (turning point) cleats is essential for pontoon mooring; this is how commercial boatman tie up when first coming alongside. The springs, bow and stern lines can then be sorted at relative leisure.
Reefing and setting a large light airs genoa can give rise to problems in crowded waters as it is difficult to maintain a good lookout. I have mast-based roller reefing and slab reefs with cockpit lines would be easier. I find that the autopilot is super while motoring but I use shock-cord tiller lines on blocks with 'V' cleats while sailing as I find that adjustments and rapid release are easier. I have yet to attempt the spinnaker but I regularly pole out a large flying genoa which is easier to control and affords good downwind sailing.

As the decks are flush and there are no stanchions, I clip on to nylon tape jackstays which run the length of the decks. At least I don't have to bother with a MOB danbuoy!
 

LadyInBed

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Autohelm is essential – it’s a crew that doesn’t answer back and something’s got to steer while you put the kettle on / eat / use heads

I can’t see any need for a self tacking jib, but I would say that roller reefing on the foresail is essential.

Mooring - Lines and fenders have to be deployed (both sides) in plenty of time. Lines have to be run back to the cockpit (in some situations tie the two ends together with a loose reef knot). A short line amidships is sometimes useful with a large eye spliced in the free end for dropping over a convenient pontoon cleat.

Picking up buoys – Timing is the thing, not too many revs and knowing when to shut them off, or if the wind / current is strong, how much to leave on. Take your boathook up to the bow before you start your approach. Do a dummy approach to get the feel of things if the circumstances allow.
Another method is to run a bow line back to the cockpit, approach the buoy with it on the windward / up current side then hook it when it is level with cockpit and attach previously rigged bow line. Personally I don’t like this method, its too easy to get the line fowled up.

Casting off – from buoys, no problems, but try not to run over the buoy.
From pontoons, lots of thought needed, loop mooring lines back onboard so they can be slipped without you being ashore. Think through in what order you are going to slip them. If there is anyone around get them to help. Lots depend on whether wind / current is holding you on or off.

Last (I think) practice, practice, practice.
 

PeterGibbs

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Some good advice given above.

May I add from my experience sailing my 38 footer alone for 70-130 mile trips. I emphasise:

1. Close quarters is when you are most vulnerable. You MUST have a fall back position, be able to re-approach the landing / pontoon / buoy a second time etc. or be prepared to take damage. The wind is an absolute killer in these circumstances and can easily have you drifting back across a load of unprotected bows/transoms.
Compared to this, it is no great shakes to handle sails yourself at sea - you have time to make it good - a harness is essential in almost all conditons: there are no second tries when alone and over the side!

2. I use my autohelm most of the time - if yours is bust or you do not have one - this is where your spare cash must go! Single handing without it is almost impossible (without the risk of serious damage)

3. Being able to amuse yourself after the first hour & the second cup of tea and the third biscuit / apple break. Take a radio and headset for those quieter moments - it reduces the tendency to talk to yourself or, heaven forbid, sing

PWG
 

johnsomerhausen

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An autopilot is not indispensable if your boat is well balanced (40 years ago, when I started single-handing a 23 footer, they didn't exist; I simply tied a line to the tiller to jeep it in place). You don't need any special fittings to singlehand a boat, though some might come in handy (rolleer furling gneoa, midship cleats, etc.). As far as picking up a mooring under sail, just get one of these toy blloons, a brick and some line and go practice in some free water.
I found that the easiest way to reduce sail with hanked on foresails was to take a reef, heaving to if necessary. But the main thing, as anotheer post saiid is:
practice, practice, practice (and sometimes let the wind push you wheere you want to go).
john
 

tyger

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Excellent advice above - however you say your sailing is inland - Norfolk Broads?

If so I would think an autohelm would be of little use but a self tacking foresail would be as good (or better) than another hand when short tacking on the rivers.

I have seen two systems for self tacking foresails (there may be others).

The modern system uses a track and car, similar to a mainsheet traveller, mounted on the foredeck. I've no experience of this system but I would guess the pros and cons are as follows...

You don't need to modify your foresail - assuming that it does not overlap the mast (unlikely on a Broads yacht?) and has a fairly high cut foot. With this system you can play abput with the draft of the sail (i.e. increase or decrease the curvature) to power it up or down. The downsides are, cost, several bits of string to play with, and the need to mount the track correctly on the foredeck.

The alternative is the system used on the first boat I sailed on - a little gaff rigged auxilliary called Pimpernel that my father hired at Wroxham. She had a club footed jib.

With this system the foot of the foresail is attached to a spar. The spar is tacked down foreward and a single sheet led to the after end of the spar. This sheet is led through a simple fairlead just forward of the mast, then round turning blocks back to the cockpit. This system is simple to set up and trim while sailing. It does not give you the same control over the the power of the jib - but does this matter? The only real downsides I can see is the club foot waiting to bang your shins at the crucial moment, and possibly the jib may need to be recut.

With a club footed foresail you can't use roller reefing or furling foresails so I would suggest you lead a downhaul from the head of the foresail to the tack and then back to the cockpit. Since you have a bermuda rig it might be worth fitting a downhaul on the mainsail.

Make sure you can let go the halyards quickly. Unless they are led back to the cockpit already I would recommend that you leave the falls at the mast. In my experience halyards led back to the cockpit need to be tended all the time or they snarl up at the critical moment. On the other hand it might well be worth leading the topping lift back to the cockpit so it can be set up in advance of your dash to the mast.

Other responses have given you good advice on mooring and comming alongside. All I would add is get to know your boat well. When you are sailing with friends I suggest time spent manouvering around a "coke bottle and half brick" bouy would be well spent. Make sure you can start the engine quickly and easily. If all else fails have the mud weight ready to act as an emergency brake.

Above all - have fun.
 

oldharry

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As an inveterate single hander I agree entirely with everything thats been said above. Self tacking jib could be useful in confined inland waters, where frequent tacking is called for, but much less use than a roller reefing jib. A quick pull on the line and the sail is furled - useful at sea - essential in confined waters!

Even on inland waters some means of escaping the helm is essential. In addition to an autohelm, I use a 'Tiller Tamer' produced by Barton, which allows me to lock the tiller in any position with a line and a friction clutch, but returns control to me instantly. Would not be without it!

Bring all control lines aft to the cockpit. Plan ahead for each manoever, and have everything ready - lines. fenders, boathook etc well before attempting to come alongside.

In good conditions I regularly pick up my mooring under sail for practice against the day when the engine lets me down. I always have the engine runing in neutral when under sail at close quarters, to help out if needed.

You will make mistakes - maybe even make it to YMs 'Confessional' - but that how we learn the bits that aren't in the RYA syllabus!
 

marcost

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From time to time, I sail my Bavaria 430 alone. The rigging is not the problem; a autopilot which can be switched on and off very quickly is essential. The boat is equipped with a furling genoa and a fully battend mainsail, operated at the mast.
Of course, an electrical furling main and headsail and electrical winches make live easier; it is only a money problem.

For me the most difficult thing is leaving and entering the marina (I have to go through a lock).

Therefore I have my mooring lines which stay on the pontoon and I have a mooring cleat midships. With this cleat an enough fenders at the ends I can moor my boot alongside a pontoon or in the lock with one line.

Furthermore, before I start a handling in a harbour, I first think twice about the effect of the wind and the current on the boat and I practise and practise and practise...

see you in Ostend,

Marc
 
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If you see me in Ostend, something has gone very, very seriously awry - possibly I've been swept right over the lock at Oulton Broad, or really made a cock of the tides at Yarmouth - I'm reminded of Arthur Ransome's "We didn't mean to go to sea"...

My boat's got a big sail area for her size, like all Broads yachts, and it would be one hell of a run!

But seriously - great responses, ta very much to all
 

Footpad

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Nobody has mentioned (perhaps it was implicit?) one major advantage of an autopilot - a moderately sophisticated one will include the ability to tack the boat leaving you free to man the winches and go forward to free snags etc.
 
G

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Good comments by previous posters. The only thing I would add is self-tailing genoa sheet winches, if affordable (and the main sheet winch, ditto). When in a hurry, they have made a big difference by allowing me to quickly adjust the sheets, especially to spill air, and with one hand.
Richard in Santa Barbara, CA, USA; s/v Klarissa - Valiant 32
 

surekandoo

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I agree with all the previous. Self tailing genoa winches are a must as is an autopilot esp. if vessel twitchy.
I have sailed a Jaguar 25 swing keel single handed and it was a swine until we bought the autopilot.
High cut foresail/genoa is also a must. Remember there will only be you keeping a look out so minimal blind spots to leeward are vital.

All contol lines taken back to cockpit useful.

Handheld VHF.

Reliable engine - vital

Unbreakable flask, and large sandwich box!

Attention to weather forecast - if in doubt don't go out!

Happy sailing
 
G

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On the boats I have sailed single-handed on the Broads I have had
Self tacking jib with roller furling and quick release jammer.
Quick release jammer on mainsheet
Kiker, main halyard and topping lift, fed back to cotpit
Good easy to start motor. Autohelm tiller pilot
A good stereo (NOT for loud music But for the time I find a quite back water where I can sit relax and read)
And LOTS and LOTS of fenders especially in the summer
Goog sailing Paul
 
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