Single line reefing routing the control lines

[lumphammer]

I've taken off the add-on in mast furling system and am replacing with slab reefing with single line reefing for reefs 1 and 2. For convenience because there is more space in the cockpit on the starboard size I would like both reefing lines to come down the mast on the same (STB) side before going to the cockpit.

Is this likely to cause problems or should route one down port side and one down starboard?

 

[vyv_cox]

My halyards are grouped for maximum convenience. On the same side, port in my case, I have both reefs, topping lift and main halyard. Reefing operations all carried out without moving feet.

 

[Stemar]

If you're running the reefing lines along the outside of your boom, it's probably easier to run one each side, but what happens from the foot of the mast is a matter of convenience and what you can get in the way of turning blocks and clutches. There's no reason the port reefing line can't be directed to starboard provided you can get a clear run past the kicking strap

 

[Wing Mark]

When I used to crew on a well sorted boat, the reefing lines went to the stbd winch, the halyard to port.
So you could set everything up in advance and do the evolution very quickly.

Why make the process of putting in the second reef different from the first?

 

[Hoolie]

When I did our single line reefing the lines naturally came out of the boom on to the sheaves on one side or the other. It seemed logical to keep the lines back to the cockpit on the same side so we have 1 and 3 on starboard and 2 on port.

 

[dunedin]

If you're running the reefing lines along the outside of your boom, it's probably easier to run one each side, but what happens from the foot of the mast is a matter of convenience and what you can get in the way of turning blocks and clutches. There's no reason the port reefing line can't be directed to starboard provided you can get a clear run past the kicking strap

For single line reefing, isn’t it the tack downhaul bits that might have an issue if all on the same side of the mast? Certainly on our boat it is important to pull down reef 1 on one side, reef 2 on the other - and reef 3 is a hook, rather than single line, but back on the same side as reef 1

 

[Martin&Rene]

It will help get a useful answer if you give the details of what type and size of yacht, what type of boom, what pulleys does it have at the front and the back of the boom on the top and bottom sides. Then you have to look at are you just running the lines through cringles from one side of the sail to the other or are you using pulleys mounted on one side of the sail.

I have detailed what I did on my yacht here

Single Line 3rd Reefing Setup

 

[lumphammer]

It will help get a useful answer if you give the details of what type and size of yacht, what type of boom, what pulleys does it have at the front and the back of the boom on the top and bottom sides. Then you have to look at are you just running the lines through cringles from one side of the sail to the other or are you using pulleys mounted on one side of the sail.

I have detailed what I did on my yacht here

Single Line 3rd Reefing Setup

Moody 36, Z-Spars boom with 4 sheaves at tack and 4 at Clew end. Sail will have pulley blocks that can be fitted either side. Nothing else in place at the moment until I get the sail.

 

[Stemar]

For single line reefing, isn’t it the tack downhaul bits that might have an issue if all on the same side of the mast? Certainly on our boat it is important to pull down reef 1 on one side, reef 2 on the other - and reef 3 is a hook, rather than single line, but back on the same side as reef 1

Yes, I wasn't very clear. Do all the bits that affect the sail one one each side, but if the turning block at the foot of the mast are by the back of the mast, at about 5 or 7 o'clock, it should be possible to take the line to the deck organiser on the "wrong" side.

 

[Neeves]

Our 3 reefing lines and halyard are all to starboard and led to the cockpit, through a bank of clutches - as Vyv says - you can do everything without moving your feet. Our headsail halyards are all to port and are controlled at the mast (we have mast winches and clutches).

Jonathan

 

[dunedin]

Yes, I wasn't very clear. Do all the bits that affect the sail one one each side, but if the turning block at the foot of the mast are by the back of the mast, at about 5 or 7 o'clock, it should be possible to take the line to the deck organiser on the "wrong" side.

Yes, if on separate sides of mast where working, then should be feasible to swap sides at the base of the mast before leading back, at the (probably acceptable) cost of slightly more friction. Perhaps might benefit from an extra block (or low friction ring) at boom level to avoid chafe / friction as passes the gooseneck.

 

[dunedin]

Our 3 reefing lines and halyard are all to starboard and led to the cockpit, through a bank of clutches - as Vyv says - you can do everything without moving your feet. Our headsail halyards are all to port and are controlled at the mast (we have mast winches and clutches).

Jonathan

On the other hand, having the main halyard on one side and the reefing line on the other can make better use of two halyard winches, particularly as with single line reefing generally want to tension the reef line before tensioning the halyard, but a degree of juggling both tends to get the job done best

 

[vyv_cox]

On the other hand, having the main halyard on one side and the reefing line on the other can make better use of two halyard winches, particularly as with single line reefing generally want to tension the reef line before tensioning the halyard, but a degree of juggling both tends to get the job done best

My reefing pennants are marked with coloured thread at the point they should emerge from the clutches. In the vast majority of cases I can haul the topping lift by hand, release the main halyard also to a marked point, haul the pennant, usually by hand but with a brief pull on the winch if necessary, then tension the halyard with the winch. Not normally any need to use two winches.

 

[Martin&Rene]

Dunedin quote
"particularly as with single line reefing generally want to tension the reef line before tensioning the halyard, but a degree of juggling both tends to get the job done best"

A recent YM article described the problems of following this approach, which mirrored my experience (Assuming you do not have the Selden in boom single line system.) If you have a pulley on the tack reef then on some yachts you end up with the tack reef pulley jammed against the boom and mast guide and you cannot tighten the line any further to pull down on the leech. It is better to have marks on the halyard or on the mast so that you lower the sail to a point where the pulley is a few cms up the mast so that the lines do not jam and also that you are not pulling down hard on sail slider just below the reefing point. Having tightened up the reefing line, you can then just do a final adjustment on the halyard tension if necessary.

Additional comment You need to look at the second part of my referenced thread to see how I set up the pulleys on the first and second reef.

 

[dunedin]

Dunedin quote
"particularly as with single line reefing generally want to tension the reef line before tensioning the halyard, but a degree of juggling both tends to get the job done best"

A recent YM article described the problems of following this approach, which mirrored my experience (Assuming you do not have the Selden in boom single line system.) If you have a pulley on the tack reef then on some yachts you end up with the tack reef pulley jammed against the boom and mast guide and you cannot tighten the line any further to pull down on the leech. It is better to have marks on the halyard or on the mast so that you lower the sail to a point where the pulley is a few cms up the mast so that the lines do not jam and also that you are not pulling down hard on sail slider just below the reefing point. Having tightened up the reefing line, you can then just do a final adjustment on the halyard tension if necessary.

Additional comment You need to look at the second part of my referenced thread to see how I set up the pulleys on the first and second reef.

Not a problem with our boat’s setup, as have guide eyes for tack on mast set at correct position just above where sliders stack, and low friction ring rather than block on sail. Works a treat.
Clearly marks on halyard and reef lines also very helpful - but we find winching on the reef line helps the “out haul” effect to give a flat sail for efficient beating.

 

[Wing Mark]

Having sailed a few OPB's with single line reefing, and looked at a few boats for sale, ISTM that these systems can work quite well or very badly, and the subtleties of making them work well vary from boat to boat.

It's simple stuff, compared to say the raking system on a Merlin Rocket, but many details to make it not work. Maybe if the tack fittings or blocks are not in exactly the right place relative to how the line pulls, it will always want to jam?

The boat I'm hoping to buy, if I can't make the single line thing work properly, first time, every time, I will change it to separate clew and tack lines.

I suspect many people with single line reefing would be surprised how quickly a 1980s JOG boat could put in a reef in, in the dark.
But that's with two crew and a helm. (minimum).

 

[lumphammer]

Thanks for the input everybody. It seems that my ideal is perfectly feasible, now just need to wait for sail to arrive to sort out final block and fairlead positions.