Single line reefing - replacing a line

[Twister_Ken]

Selden mast & boom. Single line reefing for reefs 1 & 2. Reefing line 1 is showing considerable chafe at both tack and clew and should probably be replaced (there is not enough spare line to chop off both ends to remove the chafe points). Is this a simple 'mousing' operation or is it something best left to a professional rigger?

Thanks in advance.

TK

 

[prv]

Is this a simple 'mousing' operation or is it something best left to a professional rigger?

Neither

It's something you can easily do yourself, no need to pay anybody else. But it's not quite a case of stitching the new line to the old one and pulling it through. You do realise that there are two completely separate pieces of rope involved in each reef, right?

The clew pendant can probably be pulled through, but the tack pendant has a sewn eye that's attached to the slider that runs up and down the boom. I think some newer booms have an opening at the gooseneck end that lets you get at this to replace it without dismantling anything, but others will need the clew end cap removed to get at the sliders. It's a good opportunity to check the little plastic wheels on the sliders and generally inspect for wear and damage - our boom operates so much better now since I dismantled and refurbished the insides over the winter.

Pete

 

[johnphilip]

Agree with prv, have taken my selden boom apart a couple of times. If replacing the lines it might be interesting to use thinner Dyneema lines to make releasing the reefs easier. See the attached link to Selden's diagram.
http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1380900658/595-668-E.pdf

 

[AndrewL]

I have taken my Selden boom apart several times to replace lines. Firstly, it's not as hard as it initially seems, so I'd recommend having a try.

My boom only opens at the clew end and has two Torx bolts holding the end cap on. The end cap has the pulley sheaves built in, so when pulling the end cap off you are also pulling some reefing line through. So make sure the jammers are open.

The cars inside the boom may have four small wheels losely attached. So extract the cars carefully and make sure you remove the wheels. The wheels are not attached, they just drop into slots, so easily drop out. Worth blocking cockpit drains before you begin.

I assume you will remove the sail first. So make sure you put secure stop knots in all lines. I failed to do this once and pulled a line into the boom, very annoying.

A very useful tool is a metal retractable tape measure which is longer than your boom. You can extend it and push it down the boom, lock it off, then using sticky tape attach a line and pull it back through. Also useful is a length of wire (not electrical), to help feed the line around pulley sheaves as you can bend it into shape.

 

[duncan99210]

It's a fun afternoon doing the job. Nothing difficult, just take things step by step and it's reasonably simple. I found a bucket tied under the end of the boom was a good idea to catch any bits dropped as I took the end cap off and pulled the little cars out.
You need to have an eye spliced into the tack line, so get that done before you start taking things to bits. I'd replace both sets of lines whilst you're at it, then you'll only have to take the end cap off the once.
Check the size of the reefing lines and make sure they match the specification Selden publish. For some reason, ours were 14mm but Selden specify only 10mm: things run much better since we replaced them with the thinner lines....

 

[AndrewL]

From reading the other comments, I suspect Selden have changed the design several times. On mine only the outhaul line needed an eye. I was replacing this line with thinner dyneema and just used a bowline, with the tail zip tied to the line. I didn't realise an eye splice was needed before it was all apart and didn't want to get involved with splicing dyneema. This had worked fine, it does not foul the other cars.

 

[peter2407]

Dont do what I did - mouse with tape and sewing, perfectly solid, rock solid in fact. As per prv I "knew" about the two lines but clearly didn't know to stop pulling when the line I was looking at and expecting to be moving, er, wasn't but the line I wasn't looking at cos I expected it not to be moving, er, was ....

Nice way to get to know the innards of your boom though ...

 

[shaunksb]

Agree with prv, have taken my selden boom apart a couple of times. If replacing the lines it might be interesting to use thinner Dyneema lines to make releasing the reefs easier. See the attached link to Selden's diagram.
http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1380900658/595-668-E.pdf

I did this and it was so much better with the Dyneema. Much less friction when shaking 'em out.


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[GrahamM376]

............the tack pendant has a sewn eye that's attached to the slider that runs up and down the boom.....

Not always, may depend on whether original or retrofit. Mine has back to back blocks in the boom so either line can be withdrawn/replaced.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Thanks all. Sounds like a project!

 

[colind3782]

Don't know the setup with Selden but, with my Zspars boom, it was a piece of cake.

 

[Ian_Edwards]

You might like to consider replacing the old SS traveller with plastic wheels which wear and go "square", with a new sliders which doesn't have wheels. When I did the sums, it seemed obvious to fit the new part, it's more expensive than a set of wheels, but should last the lifetime of the boom. The new design doesn't need a splice, just a knot.

New traveller in the boom with a Dyneema reefing line

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New and old travellers: