tross
Active member
I used this successfully for many years and 1000's of miles on my Hunter.seen people use a fat cable tie as a sort of latch as well.
I used this successfully for many years and 1000's of miles on my Hunter.seen people use a fat cable tie as a sort of latch as well.
This is my preferred system except that the line in stead of clipping to a pad eye runs through the padeye down to the deck to a turning block then back to cabin top (winch) Yes lots of extra rope for multiple reefs. (I only fit one reef) but with clew reefing line and halyard going back to cabin top (cockpit) it makes a quick positive reef. (forget tieing up the bunt of the sail if it is too rough to reach up. (or just do one or 2 ties). Note in the picture the padeyes (known to me as a saddle) are mounted well forward on the mast to pull tack forward as well as down. I can pull a reef in, in seconds without luffing (must be close to wind) or use of topping lift. All from cockpit. IMHO the only way to go especially for single handed sailing. ol'will
You never really directly answered my questionHi
Single line reefing should if it set up properly pull the luff down, I don’t think I said it would not.
Two line reefing can overcome some problems with friction in pulling the luff tight.
In answer to your first question I suspect it comes down to how well the set up is and the lines used. If set up correctly there would be no need to hook or tie a reefing eye but it depends I suspect on sailing conditions.
I decided to use a 2 line system as I’ll be able to use and control it easier partly cos I’m adapting a boat that has used slab reefing and I don’t want to take the boom apart at present.
Steveeasy
Well I tried too. I get your point. Are you saying that no single line system is effective if the reefing eye is not held towards the mast by a fixed point then?. Everything is a compromise and lots of people I suspect use single line systems without going to the mast and hook the reefing eye on a fixed point. I defeats the point of single line reefing.You never really directly answered my question
We have our reefing at the mast. I wouldn't change it. Its fast to reef, vastly reduced friction and we don't have string everywhere. It suits us but won't suit everybody who won't step out of the cockpit at seaOn my first boat it was set up like Doily's and you had to switch between mast to hook the tack to the reefing hook and the cockpit. Didn't take me long to realise what a stupid arrangment that was for single handing. I am a big fan of keeping things simple so rearranged main halyard at mast along with reefing hooks and reefing lines. I prefer reefing at the mast. to avoid all the complications and extra friction etc that single. line reefing brings and an extra benefit is it is cheaper to set up that way. I have never found it a problem going to the mast either on my first boat, a 25ft or my current boat at 28ft and I hate to admit but no spring chicken these days.
It is normally difficult to get the luff down hard into the gooseneck. Particularly on the second reef where there is a stackof sail slugs in the groove preventing the sail coming down. This can be overcome by having spectacles in the luff ( no one has mentioned that yet !!) & these can be made to reach past the sail stacked on the boom such that the ring in the spectacle is anchored into the internal corner nice & tight.Well I tried too. I get your point. Are you saying that no single line system is effective if the reefing eye is not held towards the mast by a fixed point then?. Everything is a compromise and lots of people I suspect use single line systems without going to the mast and hook the reefing eye on a fixed point. I defeats the point of single line reefing.
Steveeasy
My system is more a monoclespectacles in the luff ( no one has mentioned that yet !!)
I first put "spectacles" in the three reef cringles on a 42ft sloop way back in the early 80's. Knowing no better I sewed each webbing piece to the same short length. Never had any problem hooking on and tensioning the luff with any of the reefs. Exactly the same for my next three boats, the last having a fully battened main, so can not understand why you need very long tails. Obviously the reef point needs to be mid way between the two mast slides/slugs to allow the fold of sail to reach over those stacked below.2nd and 3rd reef makes for very long tails using spectacles which can catch on things.
Don't mind me...This can be overcome by having spectacles in the luff ( no one has mentioned that yet !!)
That's a little boat, like my F-24 (I have a full batten main, so similar weight), so easy.How do I stop the luff cringle dropping out of the rams head before I scramble back to the cockpit to put some tension the mainsail halyard?
On my Contessa 26 the halyard emerges from the mast at about 3 meters above deck level, then passes through a swivel block at the mast base organiser, then through sheave organiser and on to the rope clutch. I tension the clew outhaul at the mast, before returning to the cockpit.
I usually have to return to the mast to pop it back on the rams head, just at the time when I don't want to, and then hopefully try again.
TIA for your answers.
So post #2 it is thenMy teacher had a small looped bungee tied to the mast. Once you put the cringle into the ram's horn, pull the bungee loop over that horn to lock the cringle in. That cringle is not gonna go anywhere.
KISS = Keep It Simple Sailor!
And post #7!So post #2 it is then
No, first it proposed a silly ball, which gets in the way & is not needed, when one needs only bit of bungee and it was also 7 posts in to the thread.- Too late- . people get bored by then & start writing all sorts of c..p without even reading the OP's post.And post #7!