Simpson-Lawrence Windlass disassembly?

[rszemeti]

Hi,

As my Simpson Lawrence "Anchorman" windlass needs disasembly (the aluminium flanges and spacer that mount the gearbox to the windlass head have gone missing) I am trying to disassemble the damn thing.

I have removed the countersunk stainless screw from the bottom of the winch handle socket ... but seem unable to make further progress. The capstan seems firmly fixed and showing no signs of budging.

Does that winch handle socket unscrew or something??? The diagram on the SLS spares site is not really much help.

 

[MoodySabre]

If it's the old model this migh help
Strip Down Anchor Winch - Externals

 

[rszemeti]

Ah, that confirms it then, it is indeed that exact model.

.. "Drop a winch handle into the clutch-nut, turn anti-clockwise and remove. " ...

My version of that is "Drop a length of square bar into the clutch-nut, attach levers and beat the bar-steward with various sized lump hammers and despair as it just sits and laughs at you" ... I can see I'm going to need to apply more violence to the situation.

 

[Malish]

a spot of plusgas and leave to soak for a few days?

 

[RichardS]

a spot of plusgas and leave to soak for a few days?

And some heat will help.

I tested the heat effect last weekend when I had to remove a bearing from a shaft using a bearing puller. I put on the puller and wound it up tight but the bearing did not move although I had already applied WD40 overnight (I know, I know ), so I left the puller in place under tension and applied the gas torch. After a couple of minutes I could see the bearing start to creep along the shaft until the tension in the puller was considerably relieved and I could simply wind off the bearing.

Richard

 

[rszemeti]

a spot of plusgas and leave to soak for a few days?

It's had a bit of WD40 down it for a while now ... I'm pretty sure the clutch thing has never worked in my ownership, I didn;t even reallise it was supposed to move, it's always been solid. I shall machine up an adaptor and try with a rattle gun ...

 

[ColinR]

But the winch handle to release the clutch is the same thing as when you slacken it off to let the chain run. In that case you only need half a turn to let the chain run, to disassemble you just keep on turning the winch handle until its undone, then undo the central screw. Sometimes I have had over-enthusiastic crew who have gone on turning to let the chain run more freely and partially dismantled the windlass. If you cant turn that it must be completely seized.

 

[rszemeti]

If you cant turn that it must be completely seized.

Exactly that.

I never even reallised it had a clutch, as the bit in the middle has been jammed solid for as long as I have owned it. I'm planning on attacking it with a rattle gun, as my attempts with a piece of 16mm bar and an adjustable wrench have proven fruitless.

 

[Cantata]

I had exactly the same experience on my previous boat. The long soak in penetrating oil did the trick.
But the thing seems very prone to seizing up again.

 

[Malish]

Make up a long lever with the aid of a 4-6' length of scaffolding pole and an old winch handle and gradually apply pressure.. somthing should give way , hopefully the top of the windlass/clutch!

Much more effective than belting it with a hammer

 

[ColinR]

Exactly that.

I never even reallised it had a clutch, as the bit in the middle has been jammed solid for as long as I have owned it. I'm planning on attacking it with a rattle gun, as my attempts with a piece of 16mm bar and an adjustable wrench have proven fruitless.

its a friction clutch, very simple and effective. When you get it apart its obvious and just needs an annual clean up. A good bit of kit.

 

[tudorsailor]

Make up a long lever with the aid of a 4-6' length of scaffolding pole and an old winch handle and gradually apply pressure.. somthing should give way , hopefully the top of the windlass/clutch!

Much more effective than belting it with a hammer

So what you are saying is that the drum is seized onto the shaft? As a result you have not been able to loosen the top nut to allow the chain to freerun? If this is the case take care when forcing the drum upwards. You will be levering against whatever is holding the shaft in the gearbox. In your case it may be that the shaft is also seized into the gear box so the drum should go upwards when you lever it. However, should the shaft not be seized in the gearbox, you will probably be levering against the circlip that keeps the shaft in place. Have you tried hammering a screwdriver into the gap between the drum and gypsy? Even better one from either side? If you can get a screwdriver into the gap you may break the adhesion of the underside of the drum on the gypsy and then the drum should come up and off the shaft
All good in theory
TS

 

[ColinR]

before you exert too much force on it I would apply heat. A hot air gun is good for this and take your time, 10 or 15 mins to get the whole thing good and hot. Then it should release much more easily.

 

[rszemeti]

So what you are saying is that the drum is seized onto the shaft?

No, I am saying that the nut that you put the winch handle in to engage the clutch is seized onto its threads.

It has other problems such as the bearings in the gearbox have rusted out, the spacer between the gearbox and deckplate has disintegrated etc ... but these are all solvable, once I release the top nut ...

 

[rszemeti]

Right, with a 3 foot extension bar, managed to unscrew the clutch nut ...

The capstan then pulled clear, and with moderate use of hammers, freed off the clutch cones on the gypsy. The sub-shaft and pawls soon gave up with a hydraulic bearing puller and the whole thing was apart in under a couple of hours.

The gearbox bearings are all rusted, the seals are nick knacked ... the corrosion is to the gearbox output flange and the "spacer" that goes supports the gearbox on the windlass head ....

I reckon it's going to need some glue ... probably with bits of sawdust in it for strength.

 

[vas]

doesn't look v.good,
how about measuring and getting new pieces fabricated on a lathe?
or scrap it I guess..

 

[ghostlymoron]

I've refurbished several manual windlasses, mainly Lofrans, but wouldn't bother with that one unless you have an emtioal attachment to it.
Manual ones are pretty cheap to buy as many are fitting electric ones nowadays.

 

[rszemeti]

doesn't look v.good,
how about measuring and getting new pieces fabricated on a lathe?
or scrap it I guess..

I have a lathe ... I'll just make up a new gearbox output flange from some 6082 and replace the various bearings and seals ...

 

[rszemeti]

I've refurbished several manual windlasses, mainly Lofrans, but wouldn't bother with that one unless you have an emtioal attachment to it.
Manual ones are pretty cheap to buy as many are fitting electric ones nowadays.

Yes, but I really don't fancy a manual one .. 10mm chain and a 45lb CQR takes a fair bit of hauling.

 

[rszemeti]

Bearings and seals (mostly) arrived, new gaskets cut, castings stripped and scraped of a thick layer of rotten paint and decaying alloy, but nothing serious. Fresh paint applied.

Large lump of ally purchased to re-make the bit that had corroded away .. let the lathe work begin!