Simplifying "single-line" reefing

Danny Jo

Danny Jo

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Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

Freestyle's main has three slab-reefing points. The main halyard and the reefing lines can be operated from the cockpit. The first two reefing points are rigged up for single line reefing. The third reef has a line through the reefing point on the leech, but you have to go on deck to hook the luff ring onto the thingummyhook at the gooseneck.

Leaving aside the absurdity of being able to take in first two reefs from the cockpit, but having to go on deck to get in the third, I don't like this setup because it is a helluva job to shake out reefs 1 and 2. There is just too much friction in the system for the main halyard to overcome (not helped by the fact that the fairlead guiding the main halyard into the mast forces the halyard to make a double-bend). I suspect that this makes me slightly more reluctant to reef in the first place - in other words slightly more likely to dismiss wind speeds of 20 knots and rising as "just a little squall - it'll pass in a minute or two".

Replace the 20-year-old blocks and installing smaller diameter lines might ameliorate the problem, but I doubt that it would cure it. I am inclined to replace the complex arrangement of cars and lines in the boom with simple lines that work on the leech points only. If there is a justification for a second line for the luff point, then surely that should operate on the third reef?

Has anyone attempted to simplify single-line in this way?
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

I have only two reef points, but the second is very deep. The original set up for either reef involved pulling the leach reefing line in from the cockpit, and going to the mast to hook the luff cringle onto the ramshorn. I fitted a luff reefing line to the second reef, which runs from the mast foot, through the luff cringle, back down to a mast foot block, thence via a deck organiser back to the cockpit. It works well. Both the luff and leach reefing lines have to be pulled in by almost the same amount, so they can be pulled together, with a bit of final adjustment. It would work even better if I had blocks fitted to the sail to cut the friction.
I do not have enough organisers to run a luff line for the first reef, so I tend not to use it. I have found that there are few occasions where I would use the first reef anyway, because in the Mediterranean the wind tends to go from 20 Knots with no reef required, to gusting at over 30 knots pretty quickly, and drop off again just as fast.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

There was much discussion on the Moody owners website concerning reefing. Several have two line reefing from the cockpit. The leech is obvious but the luff also has a line back through a bullseye on the mast, just below the boom, and back through a block and deck organisers. Apparently it works a treat and avoids all that friction of blocks in the boom. The third reef always is a problem because the lines get long but it is safe. As you say, the time not to go forward is when you want a third reef!
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

To not quite answer the question; you can do a lot to reduce friction which is the main reason why single-line reefing doesn't work very well. The friction you can get, with a fairly beefy reefing line round a few blocks which look as if they are big enough, is surprisingly great.
Use of lighter lines makes (in my experience, which I admit is on a 25' boat) quite a difference, as does using a small light ball-bearing block where the line would otherwise pass through a cringle (especially at the luff)(exactly how to do this - experiment and have fun!). The result is that a system which is, to start with, frankly unacceptable can be made to work reasonably well. Not, unfortunately, very well, but well enough to get a reef in easily while retaining a more or less decent sail shape. And I can shake the reef out easily.

Like you I have a 3rd set of reef points, but as originally set up, I would have to go on deck to use them, which in worsening weather would lack appeal. I have now rigged things so I can easily move the lines for the first reef to the third reef points. In theory this could be done at sea but ideally would be done in harbour on receipt of an iffy forecast. I would then have a sail in which the first reef is tied in, in the old-fashioned way, and the second and third reefs can be done from the cockpit. Sounds fine in theory but yet to be tried in practice.
I wouldn't like to have lines permanently led through the third reef points since so much string would be bound to tangle with something ...
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

We have 3 slab reefs on a big fully battened main and all are set up with 2 separate lines for luff and leach. This system works easily and quickly but of course it does mean 3 more lines going back to the cockpit so 3 more organiser sheaves are required and 3 more clutches unless you have any existing ones that are redundant. The 3 luff reef lines don't need to be winched in as they are under no load with the halyard let off and luff tension is regained using the halyard winch. The total length of lines used is the same but it is in 6 parts instead of 3 of course.

Using a two line system is easy and quick. We can even pull a reef in off the wind if done with care to avoid the sail chafing on the rigging but that is helped perhaps because our fully battened main is on a roller car track on the mast. Shaking out a reef is also easy because there is much less friction than with single line and of course the luff reef lines are pulled out by the halyard as it is pulled up.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

Thanks for all the replies and comments. Regarding Robin's reply, I do have two spare clutches, but no spare organizer sheaves and no room is apparent for extra blocks at the foot of the mast. But if I could just squeeze in one extra block and organizer . . .

I know it's another question, but to replace the leach lines (thanks also for the correct spelling) or remove the boom cars, I guess I will have to remove the rivets securing the boom-end fitting. Please correct me if I've got it wrong.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

I had the single line reefing on my Hunter Ranger. It was a nightmare reefing or shaking them out. I binned it, fitted a ramshorn thingummy at the mast end of the boom and just run the 2 reef lines from the boom up to the leach cringles and back through end of the boom to the cockpit. OK so I need to make a short trip to the mast to hook on the luff cringle but with the main halyard marked I can jam it in the right spot,dash to the mast hook on and back in time for tea. I have seen some sails with small blocks sewn into them where the cringles are. Reef early and drink tea in comfort....
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

interesting comments on this - we have a single line reefing system on our dehler 34 and it works a treat - when shaking reef out it does help if we can grab the leech reef line where it comes out of the boom and pull through some slack and as boom easy to reach that is what we do - especially as inevitably when taking reef out conditions have moderated - good to hear about freestyle - we looked at her when at lymington and seriously considered - any idea how many of her design were made - did hear of one named sparkle but haven't seen her?
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

[ QUOTE ]
good to hear about freestyle - we looked at her when at lymington and seriously considered - any idea how many of her design were made - did hear of one named sparkle but haven't seen her?

[/ QUOTE ] I heard the designer saying that he couldn't remember (or wasn't sure) how many were built. My impression is no more than three, but I know of only two. I sailed in Sparkle about ten years ago, and was very impressed. The builders of Sparkle added a foot in length, more or less by mistake, I think, and she has a tiller with a balanced spade rudder rather than a wheel with a skeg-hung rudder. Sparkle's mast, however, was too short as first supplied, so has a join in it. When I sailed in her the rig worked beautifully, and it seemed much easier to get her sailing to windward than Freestyle - which I put down to a better-cut or newer genoa and the tiller steering. We put reefs in, but I don't remember shaking them out.

When shaking out Freestyle's reefs, I do as you suggest and pull some slack on the lines exiting the boom end, but this doesn't help much, and having too much slack risks an in-boom car jam (one of which I have had, and I think I was lucky to free it without taking the boom apart).

For the record, the other difference between Sparkle and Freestyle, apart from the layout in the saloon, is the absence of ribs on the former.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

We had our system done by our local sailmaker (Crusader) who also do rigging work and were commissioned to do a complete re-rig and Furlex service after we bought our boat as the rig was 14 years old. We were coming from a ketch rigged Westerly 33 where the sails were smaller to a 41ft cruser racer with a very powerful and tall rig where we expected to have to do reefing work more frequently and wanted it to be easy so it wasn't put off. With the W33 a lot of reefing simply involved dropping or rehoisting the mizzen and rolling/unrolling the genoa, that covered a lot of windspeed range and there was always the lazy option too of genoa and mizzen with no main.

In our case we had the coachroof winches and we had organisers and clutches but not enough. Crusader swapped the existing organisers for bigger ones using the same mounting holes but could also have gone two tier (stacked) if more were needed. We upgraded clutches as well as adding more so now all are the same Spinlock and in a neat bank either side of the coachroof. They added extra blocks on the mast foot using existing block mounts but we also 'gained' a couple of blocks/organisers/clutches by no longer taking the spinnaker halyard and pole uphauls back to the cockpit, they are now done at the mast but then that is in lighter weather. We also have a flattener reef and cunningham but again these are light weather (F3) adjustments and done at the mast.

With our set up SWMBO and I (both card carrying bus pass holders) can reef and unreef quickly and safely from the cockpit and we don't put off doing it.

The pic only shows one side, we have the same starboard side of the coachroof.

DSCF0009.jpg


As far as the blocks in the boom are concerned I've never had them so not sore how they are fitted, but yes the end of the boom fitting may well need to come off. Perhaps the makers have some info on their website?
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

Robin, sorry to digress, but is that block with the red line (left upper pic) a running backstay? We have them on our Wauquiez 35 and I've no idea when to deploy. Thus I rarely use them
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

[ QUOTE ]
Robin, sorry to digress, but is that block with the red line (left upper pic) a running backstay? We have them on our Wauquiez 35 and I've no idea when to deploy. Thus I rarely use them

[/ QUOTE ]

Yes we have a removeable inner forestay which you can see in it's stowed position in that picture, just ahead of the granny bars. This extra stay is attached down from the masthead so needs to be supported when used, hence the running backstays. We have both a staysail and a storm jib to use with this set up and dedicated tracks with adjustable sheet cars too. If you have a storm jib stay that is attached close to the mast head, the extra support of the runners isn't necessary.

In our case the runners are non standard and there merely for use when the inner stay is used, however some people set them up to stop masts 'panting' in big headseas. This is not something we have ever seen but we have a hefty mast section with in-line spreaders, twin lowers so well stayed and set up with a little pre-bend at rest and then a powerful backstay adjuster. Usually you just set up the windward runner when required, in our case going to a deck eye right aft and then the line to the windward genoa winch.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

[ QUOTE ]
I had the single line reefing on my Hunter Ranger. It was a nightmare reefing or shaking them out. I binned it, fitted a ramshorn thingummy at the mast end of the boom and just run the 2 reef lines from the boom up to the leach cringles and back through end of the boom to the cockpit. OK so I need to make a short trip to the mast to hook on the luff cringle but with the main halyard marked I can jam it in the right spot,dash to the mast hook on and back in time for tea. I have seen some sails with small blocks sewn into them where the cringles are. Reef early and drink tea in comfort....

[/ QUOTE ]
Yes, I had the same problem (on a 245). And yes, it was a nightmare - in fact I would say DANGEROUS (you had to stand on a cockpit seat and pull lines through by hand - trying to not fall overboard - completely unacceptable).
Thinner lighter lines helped - see above - and I have tied blocks on to the cringles (in such a way that I can move them easily on to other cringles for the 3rd reef; again, see my post above).
So I can now reef from the cockpit easily, but I expect you get a better reef (flatter sail) than I do. Two solutions to the same problem, and I imagine that a separate line for the luff cringle is a third. Certainly a solution is needed and I'm amazed that people still sail with the original set-up.
"Reef early and drink tea in comfort.... " Absolutely! and on my boat, I found that a timely reef added greatly to comfort and control (with too much sail, it was inclined to round up into wind out of control) with very little effect on speed.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

I am trying to design a simple reefing system and I was going to go for the single line system, using back to back blocks under the boom, but I wonder now if I should go for a separate line for each end of the boom?
I wonder if I can put the end of the lines through the cringles, then simply knot them onto a round bead which wont go through the cringles, instead of taking the line back down to the boom to tie off, and what would be the effect of the beads on the sail and its shape whilst not reefed?
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

I would have thought that you would put too much strain on the cringle and the sail at that point and eventually rip the cringle out. If you don't want to bring the reefing lines back down to the boom then perhaps a long bowline through the cringle would keep the effort equally spread on the cringle and sail. The main point is how well the sail will set when reefed. With all the effort being back to the end of the boom the leach may be fully stretched before the foot of the sail is tight. With a line back to the boom the sail can find its own position.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

Agreed - and I am no foredeck dance enthusiast. I'm the wrong shape. I tried the ramshorn arrangement for a bit, then - after seeing it on another boat - have sewn a couple of rings on webbing through the cringles. I have one of those Wichard spring clips on another piece of webbing at the boom. So when I go forward I just make one clipping movement, secure the halyard and go back again.

If people are absolutely certain they must have reefing line back to the cockpit, thin hi-tech line is the way to go, because friction is the problem.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

Thanks, Robin and others, for lots of food for thought. Freestyle's arrangement of coachtop winches and clutches is remarkably similar to Robin's (except there are eight clutches on each side). You've set me wondering how many of the lines coming back to the cockpit could be made off at the mast.

Starting from the outermost port clutch the arrangement goes something like this:

1. Vacant
2. Port pole downhole/boom preventer
3. Port spinnaker halyard/pole uphaul
4. Reef 1
5. Main halyard
6. Reef 3
7. Staysail halyard
8. Kicker
9. Genoa halyard
10. Reef 2
11. Mainsheet
12. Topping lift
13. Er, can't remember
14. Starboard spinnaker halyard/pole uphaul
15. Starboard pole downhaul/boom preventer
16. Vacant.

As you can see, even the skipper doesn't know what they all are, so what hope for the crew? When I don't have a spinnaker whizzkid on board and set it or pole out the genoa myself, I find myself dashing repeatedly between the foredeck and the cockpit, having tired of the "No, not that one, the red one on the port side" game. Making off the spinnaker halyards at the mast would simplify the procedure a bit. The downhauls double as preventers, and need to come back to the cockpit to allow them to be released at short notice. Perhaps I should follow Robin's example and consult a professional rigger.
 
Re: Simplifying \"single-line\" reefing

I have a piece of webbing like lifeline webbing, maybe a foot long, through the cringle or reeving eye with a stainless ring sewn at each end. In other words, the rings are too big to pass through the eye. On another piece of webbing (though it could be on a piece of cord) I have a stainless spring clip (like the thing on the end of your lifeline, but without the extra safety lock). This is attached to an eye on the mast, though I guess it could be lashed to the boom. You let the sail down until the eye and the clip are next to each other, clip on, retension the halyard, and that's that bit done. I actually have the line to the aft reef there too, so I can do the lot by one short trip to the mast. If I haven't made it clear I'll take a couple of photos next week.
 
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