Simple alternatives to epoxy for sealing ply/pine edges?

[steve yates]

I usually seal any ply I am using in the boat with epoxy, after my first attempt at battening all turned black in the first winter
I’m considering trying some tongue n groove in places, and wiould, as usual, coat it all with epoxy at home to seal it. However I will inevitably end up cutting ends off on site where I have got it wrong, Ideally I would like to paint some kind of sealant over the raw edge easily there and then, before fitting it.
Epoxy is too much of a faff for this because I will then need to do the same again 15 mins later on another piece I have got wrong, and after faffing around mixing it to use such a small amount, the rest will have gone off.
Anything else I could use? Like pva glue or something, which can be opened, painted on and closed until needed again and will seal wood from water ingress?
Thanks.

 

[Trident]

Bonda Marine G4 - two coats , quick drying and cheap compared to epoxy

 

[Hacker]

+1 for G4. Just used it to seal an mdf mould prior to applying gel coat. We also use it to seal any wooden part we put into boats (unless we need them to take up water, e.g clinker planks).

 

[ridgy]

Hardly cheaper than epoxy.

 

[steve yates]

Hardly cheaper than epoxy.

Its not cheaperI’m after, its more convenient.
G4 sounds like it could be just the thing, to clarify I am not bonding anything ( these things need to be removable) I just want to seal the cut edges of wood with it so it doesn’t rot.
I presume I can just use this for that?

Ironically, it will be a lot cheaper than epoxy ( and I use polyester resin) as I wont be making up batches and throwing the rest away, just painting a dab of g4 on each edge. Should last for years

 

[Trident]

Its not cheaperI’m after, its more convenient.
G4 sounds like it could be just the thing, to clarify I am not bonding anything ( these things need to be removable) I just want to seal the cut edges of wood with it so it doesn’t rot.
I presume I can just use this for that?

Ironically, it will be a lot cheaper than epoxy ( and I use polyester resin) as I wont be making up batches and throwing the rest away, just painting a dab of g4 on each edge. Should last for years

It is half the price of West System, much more convenient as it doesn't go off quickly in the pot but does so on the wood and with two coats will seal very well spit ideal for what you want

I used it on a superyacht fit out working with a very experienced shipwright who did wood every day and he always used it so now so do I

 

[Tranona]

Your boat must be very damp. I have never needed to seal cut ends of T&G, just varnish. The removable panels in the photo were at least 20 years old - and that is a wooden boat.

 

[Purple Velvet]

I bought some latex based paint from the local wood emporium that is designed exactly for the purpose of sealing the edges of plywood etc. If interested, I have the tin in my garage so will take a photo for you.

 

[ducked]

Lots of wood oils, from pricy Danish deck oil in penetrating and sealing varieties to linseed in raw and “boiled” form with similar relative function

 

[Purple Velvet]

 

[mikefleetwood]

Hopefully not too much of a thread drift:

I need to drill and seal some holes in the deck for a new winch. Would the suggested G4 work as a hassle-free alternative to epoxy to seal the inner wood layer?

Thanks

 

[steve yates]

Your boat must be very damp. I have never needed to seal cut ends of T&G, just varnish. The removable panels in the photo were at least 20 years old - and that is a wooden boat.

It was Its not now, but….

 

[ridgy]

It is half the price of West System

Liquid gold is half the price of west. Seriously who buys west any more?

 

[RunAgroundHard]

I use this stuff to seal wood, not necessarily edges, but for any sealing applications. It works very well and a little goes a long way. My cockpit locker lid has withstood the test of time using this stuff. Just pour equal amounts by volume, it’s runny like water, mix with a stick, ready in seconds, apply with a brush two coats.

Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer (CPES). 1st for durability.

I use small beakers, such as you get with liquid medicine to measure out small volumes. It also keeps in a jar with a lid once mixed for a remarkably long time. A small drop left in the bottom of the beaker set, and when examined it was quite flexible for epoxy, not brittle.

 

[Trident]

Liquid gold is half the price of west. Seriously who buys west any more?

Mostly people who have a local chandlery that has nothing else . I work in composites all the time so bulk buy from trade but almost everyone I know as hobbyists gets a small kit from the local chandler.

 

[Moodysailor]

For really good wood sealing, Pyrmax clear sealer or Bonda wood seal are both very good and are similar/same products. I have been using that on some bulkheads we repalced before bonding them in.

For cheaper sealing of battens, we have used Rustoleum Universal All-Surface paint. Available in mutiple colours to suit, goes on well and is hard wearing.

 

[Lightwave395]

I just use Ronseal wood hardener, seems to work fine, relatively cheap and easy to use