Silicone antifoul - SeaCoat?

Tradewinds

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Delos have just coated their Amel with the Seacoat stuff - which is maybe why Northcave is interested.

I've always wondered what it like being hauled out with an ultra-slippy bottom.

Depends on the yard doing the hauling I guess.
 

Kerenza

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Im in my third season with the now defunct aqua cote.

works pretty well but we are in and out of salt water all the time, moored in fresh.

would go for the same technology next time.
 

Quandary

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There is a boat in our yard with it, it is very smooth but the first year came out with a considerable beard and had to be redone, to be fair, she does not move much, but I reckon it would work fine for a boat in constant use.
 

Neeves

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In the Health and safety data sheet for Prop Speed it is suggested they MAY contain carcinogens. Prop Speed now supply an acid based product to effect removal. At the yard we last used they wouldn't allow removal of silicone coatings that allowed the creation of any dust, at all (fortunately this did not apply to us)

If you do use a silicone based coating and find it lacks the desired effect - then its a devil of a job to remove all traces of silicone. Silicone is obviously a poor substrate to try to over paint.

Most AF work if the vessel is constantly moved.

Despite this negativity - I'm interested.

Jonathan
 

Porthandbuoy

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I received a sample of a silicone antifoul (can't remember the name of the company). I tried it on my self-steering trim-tab. After a season's use the trim-tab had a good beard of green slime, much more than the rest of the hull. The slime easily scrubbed off with the deck brush, and I dare say if my boat could achieve 20kts the weed would have sloughed off. At 4 ~ 5 kts, no chance.
Would I do the entire hull in the stuff? No. It is damn nearly impossible to remove the coating if you ever wanted to revert to conventional A/F.
 

phillcoops

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Has anyone used, seen or met anyone that has tried this www.Seacoat.com?
Yes. We had our S&S34 done last October. The yard didn’t get it quite right so are doing it again free of charge this Autumn in the shed this time. The finish has to be perfect at the molecular level. Worth speaking to John Bowlin at Seacoat. He is very helpful. He is sending us test panels for the river Tamar in Devon as well. I fear fouling is more about the location than any given product. Really worth watching the Delos video on You Tube too. Good comparisons of other boats in the Caribbean. Fouling does come off VERY easily but you will need regular maintenance if the boat isn’t used much. Also yards can be a bit funny about lifting but so far we haven’t had a problem with strips slipping. They just put a pair of horizontal check ropes on. Let me know if you want more info and good luck with the decision.
 

Nikia

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We are just having the hull prepped, ready to apply Seacoat V10X this week.
Hope it's the right decision!
Will feed back results.
 

phillcoops

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Please, please make sure they get the substrate perfect before applying. Has you applicator taken advice from the manufacturer? I’m not a sales rep or anything, just a customer who took the chance last year and our yard didn’t get it right. I’m desperate for the product to work (it’s the future) but poor application could result in what is conceptually a fantastic product being blamed when it wasn’t put on properly. Fortunately our applicator is also determined to persevere despite him now running at a loss on the project. Good luck guys!
 

Nikia

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I agree that its the future, I think that very soon self antifouling will be banned, having to be left to the "professionals" at triple the cost, closely followed by biocides being banned altogether.
I hope we have pitched our long term plans correctly.
 

Nikia

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Ok, the proof will be in the pudding.
Coating applied and we went back in the water yesterday.
Obviously we will be monitoring closely, and I'll report back as we see how it goes!
Needless to say this will be over the next 12 months or so.
 

Hot Property

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I applied Hempel Silic One in May this year to my 7 metre sports cruiser. 1 x coat of 2 pack primer, 1x coat tie coat and 2 x "top" coat of Silic One.

As I cruise at 20 knots the hull should be self cleaning apart from the sides which need a soft brushing down to keep the slime off. So far I'm impressed - and I gained 2 knots on top speed as a result.

Primary reason for doing it was the reduced maintenance as I can now have a "lift and hold" to change engine and leg oil which is around £100 annually vs £220 for the full lift/chock and relaunch.

I expect the coating to last 3 seasons so, in theory i'll save 3 x £120 plus I wont have to antifoul either. When it does need re-coating it's just one topcoat.

It is indeed the future as biocides will eventually be banned. Perhaps I'm a bit ahead of the curve but it intrigues me so had to try it! I have some tie coat and 2 x 750 ml Blue silic one for sale as it will have gone off before I need to use it again!
 

Quandary

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Can't imagine the business is very profitable, both the boats that I know that tried it had to be done twice at the suppliers expense, but to compensate them, once you have it you are more or less stuck with it. The one in our moorings did not move enough to stay clean but the coating was thick and easy to scrape off, the owner did well to find a buyer for the boat though because he decided selling was easier than changing it.
 

Hot Property

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I applied it myself and followed the instructions to the letter. By the sound of it any damp conditions are not good...

In terms of business viability, its all relative.

Should regulations become so tight that DIY antifouling is banned then foul release coatings will be the only alternative and the market will adapt to suit. (and so will the owners!).
 

Bob the Dog

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Just a thought...this stuff needs speed to let the crud slide off the hull. So having read with interest the ‘do I antifoul my prop’ threads I wondered if this is the way forward for this problem. High rotational speed, compared to hull speed, of blades and shaft fit the criteria for this stuff. Any thoughts as I'm out the water.
 

Hot Property

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Hempel do sell a "prop pack" but I am not sure how well it will stick to them.

The forces on a prop are significant so I think something harder would be more effective. I recall prop speed is a hard shiny coating.

Having said that I will be painting the bottom leg of my verado as friction reduction of the bit in the water may help "economy". I actually don't need it for fouling as the leg is out of the water when not in use.

I actually think IPS legs would benefit from silic one as they can foul considerably. i will update the forum with results of my application on my sports cruiser when I have something to say...
 
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