Sika flex vs DIY Store Silicone

And what's best for resealing external windows ?
My 2002 windscreeen is leaking a little; taking the whole front windscreen out is, so I am told, not practical / possible. Was thinking of sealing over the hard rubber. Any thoughts ?
Cheers
 
jfm said:
++1 to that. I do this all the time!. You get a couple of goes at it before you finally throw the tube away
Click to expand...

And you become the proud owner of a tube that looks like black worms have protruded from its sides :) it definitely works though!
 
Elessar said:
Even before that though make a masking tape hollow sausage at the end of the nozzle. About an inch and a half long. Squeeze the trigger to fill the sausage with sealant. Fold the last half inch over. And put one more piece of masking tape round the lot. Make sure there’s no air inside.
When you go back to the tube you can then grab the inch long sika sausage which will pull the solid sika out of the nozzle.
Only if you’ve left it so long that this fails do you need the brute force tactics.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good idea also. I may try that next time I open a new tube.
 
bluetooth said:
And what's best for resealing external windows ?
My 2002 windscreeen is leaking a little; taking the whole front windscreen out is, so I am told, not practical / possible. Was thinking of sealing over the hard rubber. Any thoughts ?
Cheers
Click to expand...

I would start with some Captain Tolleys crack cure. It's transparent and will go deep into any crevices. Makes sure to wipe any excess with a wet cloth as it dries though. Only if that doesn't work would I start applying the black gunge - but it can be done with Sika- at least I've used it in that way on the boat and my Landie. From memory the 291i is UV resistant but check before use.
 
Motor_Sailor said:
The real problems with silicones (apart from them not being very good at long term sealing) is that they make painting and finishing really difficult. I don't know any quality boatyards that even allow silicones onto the premises for fear it will contaminate a surface that's due to be painted or varnished. They stuff we used for glazing was kept locked away.

.
Click to expand...

I think we're talking different disciplines here. I build fibreglass boats, hardly any wood in them, and certainly none on show, and not a drop of paint or varnish used. You're obviously talking wooden boats, so I can understand the aversion to silicone.
 
piston said:
I think we're talking different disciplines here. I build fibreglass boats, hardly any wood in them, and certainly none on show, and not a drop of paint or varnish used. You're obviously talking wooden boats, so I can understand the aversion to silicone.
Click to expand...

I too have avoided silicones, both for wood and fibreglass as it's never struck me as durable and doesn't adhere like Sika. I also find the smell repulsive. In the past I used it in industry for sealing body o-rings on submersible pumps, but in retrospect I wonder if it was the right stuff.

My boat is 37 years old and over the years I've stripped and replaced most things, but I've never come across any silicon sealants. Butyl yes, but not silicon.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top