Mira
New member
I am replacing my engine Volvo 2003MD in a Sigma 362. Would appriciate any information on this task. Will it go through the hatch, will I need to remove panel in front of hatch,will gear box need to be removed.
Sigma 362
- Thread starter Mira
- Start date
Quandary
Well-known member
Since you have had no replies specific to the 362 I will respond with info which may or may not be relevant.
I have taken the engine 2003 out of a Sigma 38 for transport inland to the agricultural workshop which used to do my rebuilds honing etc. for relatively little money. (also dfid it earlier on a Sigma 33, both with no bother)
I parked the boat on its yard trolley under the clubs lattice jib crane. Took out saloon table and put half a sheet of old plywood over the teak and holly floor. Undid everything and then lifted the engine on wooden blocks so that it could be slid forward over the grp lip at the front of the bay. We lifted the engine off the floor on two rope slings under the mounting brackets. The gearbox remained in place but it could easily be removed at this stage. The engine was lifted by the crane and then rotated 180 degrees and the gearbox end was lowered to an angle of about 30 degrees below horizontal by switching the aft slings carefully. It went up to level with the cockpit bridge but because we did not want to move the crane jib we moved the boat forward about a foot so that it emerged through the hatch without problem, equivalent to lifting it up and aft at about 60 degrees.( a more flexible crane or Hymac jib would have avoided the need to move the boat.) The hatch garage stayed in place.
Its probably a good idea to drain the oil from engine and gearbox before tilting. I had a pallet on my car trailer with a piece of 4x4 each to drop it straight on to, put coach bolts through the mounting holes to secure for tranport, but you could simply wedge it in place with packing.
Hope this helps, I can't recall any significant restrictions that you have on the 362 but not on the 38. the most difficult bit was getting it up and forward onto the saloon floor, we used a combination of levers and blocks to rock and raise it and then slid it out on short greasy planks. a short bottle jack was also used I think, it was a two man job.
I have taken the engine 2003 out of a Sigma 38 for transport inland to the agricultural workshop which used to do my rebuilds honing etc. for relatively little money. (also dfid it earlier on a Sigma 33, both with no bother)
I parked the boat on its yard trolley under the clubs lattice jib crane. Took out saloon table and put half a sheet of old plywood over the teak and holly floor. Undid everything and then lifted the engine on wooden blocks so that it could be slid forward over the grp lip at the front of the bay. We lifted the engine off the floor on two rope slings under the mounting brackets. The gearbox remained in place but it could easily be removed at this stage. The engine was lifted by the crane and then rotated 180 degrees and the gearbox end was lowered to an angle of about 30 degrees below horizontal by switching the aft slings carefully. It went up to level with the cockpit bridge but because we did not want to move the crane jib we moved the boat forward about a foot so that it emerged through the hatch without problem, equivalent to lifting it up and aft at about 60 degrees.( a more flexible crane or Hymac jib would have avoided the need to move the boat.) The hatch garage stayed in place.
Its probably a good idea to drain the oil from engine and gearbox before tilting. I had a pallet on my car trailer with a piece of 4x4 each to drop it straight on to, put coach bolts through the mounting holes to secure for tranport, but you could simply wedge it in place with packing.
Hope this helps, I can't recall any significant restrictions that you have on the 362 but not on the 38. the most difficult bit was getting it up and forward onto the saloon floor, we used a combination of levers and blocks to rock and raise it and then slid it out on short greasy planks. a short bottle jack was also used I think, it was a two man job.
Zephyr362
New member
yes it will fit, however as its so heavy and ungainly when I overhauled ours I took the gearbox, head, starter motor and anything else off before lifting it using a long piece of wood with the engine slung below and some willing volunteers.
It should be a bit more manageable then. I took the block and stripped it down in its entirety before lifting the block out by hand and getting it overhauled and reassembled in the cabin.
The things we do for fun eh!
Good luck
It should be a bit more manageable then. I took the block and stripped it down in its entirety before lifting the block out by hand and getting it overhauled and reassembled in the cabin.
The things we do for fun eh!
Good luck
cagey
Well-known member
362
Did same job 4 years ago.
take off top steps, 6 screws and brute force
obviously disconnect all engine connections: water in/ out and calorifier,exhaust, elecs, coupling,fuel and mountings.
I took alternator and exhaust elbow off only because they looked vulnerable. Keep gearbox on to prevent oil spills.
Old prop shaft or strong bearer across companion way mainsheet tackle and lift engine off mounts. Hardest part of job as engine and old mounts will feel as if welded together. When it eventually lets go you'll be pleased you did it rather than crane.
Next crane, rags, ropes etc
Best of luck, if you are replacing with beta 28hp pm me and can go into detail over phone and send pictures about probs and solutions i experienced also what spec i gave to beta
Keith
Did same job 4 years ago.
take off top steps, 6 screws and brute force
obviously disconnect all engine connections: water in/ out and calorifier,exhaust, elecs, coupling,fuel and mountings.
I took alternator and exhaust elbow off only because they looked vulnerable. Keep gearbox on to prevent oil spills.
Old prop shaft or strong bearer across companion way mainsheet tackle and lift engine off mounts. Hardest part of job as engine and old mounts will feel as if welded together. When it eventually lets go you'll be pleased you did it rather than crane.
Next crane, rags, ropes etc
Best of luck, if you are replacing with beta 28hp pm me and can go into detail over phone and send pictures about probs and solutions i experienced also what spec i gave to beta
Keith
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Mira
New member
Cagey. Thanks for your help,I was looking at the steps this morning and wondering if there was more than six screws. I think I will remove the steps.
NeilH
New member
Hi Mira
How did you get on?
I've just done a full engine recon on our VP2003 in situ on our Sigma 362, with much help from ace engineer Volvo Paul.
Steps had the 6 main screws and a further two under the companionway threshold, and another from the side in the aft cabin. 12 in all inicluding 3 on the threshold. Steps slid out easy.
I disconnected all acilliary bits n peices such as alternator, starter motor, all pipework etc then prop shaft then slid engine forward onto old hardboard - having drawn out engine mount bolts from the bearers. We took flywheel housing and gearbox off too along the way. This all worked a treat.
All parts cleaned up/ replaced as necessary from piston rings and valve seats outwards and she starts sweetly every time now. Happy days.
Neil
How did you get on?
I've just done a full engine recon on our VP2003 in situ on our Sigma 362, with much help from ace engineer Volvo Paul.
Steps had the 6 main screws and a further two under the companionway threshold, and another from the side in the aft cabin. 12 in all inicluding 3 on the threshold. Steps slid out easy.
I disconnected all acilliary bits n peices such as alternator, starter motor, all pipework etc then prop shaft then slid engine forward onto old hardboard - having drawn out engine mount bolts from the bearers. We took flywheel housing and gearbox off too along the way. This all worked a treat.
All parts cleaned up/ replaced as necessary from piston rings and valve seats outwards and she starts sweetly every time now. Happy days.
Neil
