Shroud upper tangs

William_H

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A trap for young players or am I just stupid. It all started with a post here about a failed cap shroud tang at the mast. Now the little boat is home for winter on a trailer and I am a bit neurotic about rigging integrity. Now on 4th mast. Although this one must be 20 years old.
Anyway decided to remove tangs to look at them. You know 2 plates close together then spread apart with the wire swage thimble between the plates and the top end plates close together with a bolt right through mast so a tang on each side. Same for cap shroud and intermediate shrouds. At both cap shrouds and intermediate where spreaders are based there is as stout stainless steel collar around mast so bolt goes through the collar and mast.
I found that i had done a foolish thing and at one stage replaced the manky looking studs with new bolts. 5/16 diam ww with nylock nut. All good except that the bolt was of such a length that on one side the tang was loaded on to the threaded part of the bolt and in fact the threaded part was also pressing on the ali mast and ss collar with all the load of the stay wire. Not good but apparently OK for 20 odd years.
Now originally the bolt was actually a bit of 5/16 ss rod with thread tapped on each end. I found one of the originals. However I also found that the originals must have had nut on each side done up tight onto end of thread with a fair bit of looseness. Perhaps made for a different width mast. Now I don't know if that matters but seems to me it should be pretty close but loose enough to allow alignment of tangs when loaded.
So after much battle with an old 5/16 dye nut trying to thread down another bolt. I discovered some 8mm bolts and a dye nut that actually cut the thread with not ease but at least success. Had to cut the thread own to the point where when fitted enough shank of bolt (is that what you call the smooth unthreaded part?) extends out enough to take tang thickness but thread close enough to allow a very close if not tight fit when nut goes down to end of thread.
It seems to me the bolt will act like a clevis pin except that there must be some force pulling outwards due angle of the stay away from the mast.
So hopefully all good now. Any comments. have I done it right? PS funny thing here one chandler I go to has lots of whitworth bolts etc while another has only metric. ol'will
 
A trap for young players or am I just stupid. It all started with a post here about a failed cap shroud tang at the mast. Now the little boat is home for winter on a trailer and I am a bit neurotic about rigging integrity. Now on 4th mast. Although this one must be 20 years old.
Anyway decided to remove tangs to look at them. You know 2 plates close together then spread apart with the wire swage thimble between the plates and the top end plates close together with a bolt right through mast so a tang on each side. Same for cap shroud and intermediate shrouds. At both cap shrouds and intermediate where spreaders are based there is as stout stainless steel collar around mast so bolt goes through the collar and mast.
I found that i had done a foolish thing and at one stage replaced the manky looking studs with new bolts. 5/16 diam ww with nylock nut. All good except that the bolt was of such a length that on one side the tang was loaded on to the threaded part of the bolt and in fact the threaded part was also pressing on the ali mast and ss collar with all the load of the stay wire. Not good but apparently OK for 20 odd years.
Now originally the bolt was actually a bit of 5/16 ss rod with thread tapped on each end. I found one of the originals. However I also found that the originals must have had nut on each side done up tight onto end of thread with a fair bit of looseness. Perhaps made for a different width mast. Now I don't know if that matters but seems to me it should be pretty close but loose enough to allow alignment of tangs when loaded.
So after much battle with an old 5/16 dye nut trying to thread down another bolt. I discovered some 8mm bolts and a dye nut that actually cut the thread with not ease but at least success. Had to cut the thread own to the point where when fitted enough shank of bolt (is that what you call the smooth unthreaded part?) extends out enough to take tang thickness but thread close enough to allow a very close if not tight fit when nut goes down to end of thread.
It seems to me the bolt will act like a clevis pin except that there must be some force pulling outwards due angle of the stay away from the mast.
So hopefully all good now. Any comments. have I done it right? PS funny thing here one chandler I go to has lots of whitworth bolts etc while another has only metric. ol'will
Just some passing thoughts which may or may not be right / be of any value/ be wrong..........
The through stud should have a compression tube fitted inside the mast or the tension of the nuts when tightened is trying to crush the wall of the mast.
The wall of the mast and that of the tang hole should bear on the shank of the stud. Should that shank protrude from the tang to enable this, then that protrusion can be covered by spacers/ washers to ensure that the nuts never 'bottom' on the thread before achieving the required tension.
Nyloc nuts on stainless are renowned for working loose due to vibrations as the stainless is to 'smooth' / 'slippery'. use good stud lock or pin!
 
Just some passing thoughts which may or may not be right / be of any value/ be wrong..........
The through stud should have a compression tube fitted inside the mast or the tension of the nuts when tightened is trying to crush the wall of the mast.
The wall of the mast and that of the tang hole should bear on the shank of the stud. Should that shank protrude from the tang to enable this, then that protrusion can be covered by spacers/ washers to ensure that the nuts never 'bottom' on the thread before achieving the required tension.
Nyloc nuts on stainless are renowned for working loose due to vibrations as the stainless is to 'smooth' / 'slippery'. use good stud lock or pin!
Thanks ean p there is no chance of fitting a compression tube as both ends of mast are weld not closed but not accessible. Tapered with a crane on top and closed pivot base at bottom. Anyway I think the collar provides support. However and I am not sure about this I have left bolts with nuts bottomed on thread but quite close to tight such that tangs can swing to align them selves. Sorry never heard of nylock nuts not gripping on SS but will risk it seeing as last nylocks lasted 20 odd years no problem.
Any way back to fiddling with other things. Have just got some spectra and made a replacement back stay for the little boat. Fractional rig back stay not critical. Very satisfying doing splices. Got 5mm spectra probably vastly over rated. Looking forward to spring relaunch. ol'will
 
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