Shrink wrap and tarps.

[Gordonmc]

Through last winter's refit I went through four tarpaulins despite every effort to weigh and lash down. I built a frame out of timber to give a tent shape, both to allow run-off and keep some air moving under the covers, but even this didn't help stop the tarps from shredding in the wind.

So I was interested in the possibilities of shrink wrap which is, apparently, in wide use in the U.S. to protect boats in transit and store on the hard. Its the stuff wharehouses use to wrap up pallets.

There are downsides... the force of the heat-shrinking can bend stantions if not done properly and there has to be provision for air circulation.

It seems to be an answer to a lot of problems... but I can't find any UK suppliers, or estabish if it is a feasible DIY job. A google search turned up some U.S. companies, but all the UK ones were for small jobs, like electronics and book wrapping.

Anyone cast any light?

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[jimbouy]

Actually the stuff that goes around pallets is called Stretch wrap(in this country anyway)

Shrink wrap is avaliable but needs a heat source.

Any way both can be ordered from APP Tel: 01438 777000

Let us know if you try it.

Jim

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[steve_cronin]

Don\'t do it.....

Where the wrap comes into contact with the hull will collect all sorts of debris that will over the months of lay-up abrade a band around your topsides that will be very difficult to remove in the spring. I've seen it happen and no matter how you try, grit just gets in.

Steve Cronin



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[burgundyben]

Gordon

When I bought Playtime she was an unfinished project, she had for a year been inside a tent, it was a scaffolding frame with a pitched roof, the whole tent was then shrink wrapped, it was a godsend, my own boat shed for no cost, I would exercise caution with having tarps or shrink wrap in contact with paintwork, its been know to make awlgrip blister so my yacht enamel will go and cry in the corner at the sight of it I should think.

<hr width=100% size=1>Sod the Healey - I think I'll buy an E-Type.

 

[Rich_F]

I'm worried. I was on the verge of buying a tarpaulin to make a boom tent, to keep the majority of the rain off my slightly leaky side decking.

Is this doomed to failure? Will I end up with no tarpaulin, or chafed topsides, or both? Is there anything I can do to alleviate the problem, other than fix my side decks?

I was wondering why none of the other boats in the marina seemed to do this!

Worriedly,

Rich

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[steve_cronin]

I used a frame made of 38mm domestic waste outlet pipe for many years. This had the advantage of being easily assembled (push fit pipe joints) and transported. I used 90 degree elbows to join the "rafters" at their apexes and 135degree tees at the outboard ends to allow downward pointing pieces to be lashed by cable ties to the stanchions and allow a small outrigger piece which supported the tarp well outside of the side decks. The whole series of nine (in my case) transverse frames was held in place by a central ridge pipe of 44mm on the foredeck and by the boom aft of the mast. All crossovers were secured by cable ties - now very cheap in bulk at Maplins. It kept the weather off but very importantly also allowed air circulation. The cover was made of two thicknesses of Bradshaw's finest Polytarp and was secured from where it stopped, several inches above deck level, via large eylets by the use of lengths of stockinette tied underneath the hull which were strong and caused no damage as would a shrink wrap or hard rope. The stockinette was used (after washing) in the spring for polishing cloths and replaced the following winter.

Steve Cronin

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[Guest]

Post deleted by danfoley

 

[steve_cronin]

Fits in a large canvas kitbag (another for the cover) bought at an army surplus for £6 each.

Steve Cronin

Try buying the connectors in bulk at a proper builders merchants.

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[dickh]

I use two tarpaulins to cover my boat each winter(two are easier to manage than one.
I remove the boom and replace with a length of 4x2 running from the gooseneck to the backstay, overlapping the latter by about 6".
I fix a length of 2x1 along each guard rail, clamped to the stanchions - you may have to search for long enough lengths of 2x1.
I fix another length of 4x2 from the front of the mast to the pulpit, lashed in place.
I remove all the lower shrouds at deck level
All the timber has the edges touching the tarpaulin well rounded to prevent chafe.
I then put one tarpaulin over the rear of the boat and one over the front, with a cutout for the mast, with one overlapping the other, depending on the prevailing wind.
I always fit extra eyelets between the existing eyelets.
I lash down securely all round using about three lengths of rope each side(I also tie a length of rope around the cradle to tie these ropes to)
I make it easy to untie one corner so I can get aboard during the winter months....
Leave a largish hole fore and aft for through ventilation.
I find two tarpaulins last about 4 seasons as long as they are kept taut - I usually visit the yard before and after a blow to check the lashings.
Get your tarpaulins from<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tarpaulinsdirect.co.uk>http://www.tarpaulinsdirect.co.uk</A> - Bradfords. who can supply all the extra eyelets etc.
Make sure you get them big enough, the sizes quoted are nominal and are usually 6-9" shorter on each side.




<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[chris66]

Dick, exactly the info I needed. Which grade tarpaulin do you use - I see the site has monotex, topgrade or budget ? I need it for use in the s of france where sun & rain are more a problem than wind or snow.

<hr width=100% size=1>Chris

 

[Guest]

It is not actually shrink wrap as in household ...... it is on big drums and the drum and pallet revolve on separate turntables as it is wound round tight.

Its an interesting exercise to watch pallets done - haviung spent many hours surveying cargo wrapped in this way.

As to how they 'parcel-up' boats the mind boggles ..... but I'm sure someone will enlighten us !!!! I would think that the drums must be passed around or similar with the boat stationary ?????



<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ...
Bilge Keelers get up further ! I only came - cos they said there was FREE Guinness !

 

[Guest]

Old and new ....

To lengthen the time the tarp is efective ........ place old tarp first then new on top.

The old tarp protects the new from splits / tears from stanchions, sharp corners, edges etc....... the usual cause of tarp failure.


<hr width=100% size=1>Nigel ...
Bilge Keelers get up further ! I only came - cos they said there was FREE Guinness !

 

[dickh]

Chris6 - I used the Top Grade, as I say, if carefully used and all sharp edges padded well should last 3 or 4 seasons, but do get the extra eyelets and don't rely on the 3mm diameter lines supplied with them as it is only cheap Polypropylene and degrades badly in UV. I use 5 or 6mm braided line(I picked up a load cheap a few years ago).

<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[milltech]

Re: What I got

I cannot remember why now, but at one time I purchased some big plastic sheets and a special heat gun. Using the heat to pat sections of the wrapped plastic together you then go on applying heat until it all pulls tight.

Haven't done it for years, but I do have the propane heat gun in it's neat little case and I'd like to dispose of it, not sure what I should ask.

Likewise I have about 500 suspender type clips for clipping over tarps to avoid making holes for new eyelets, don't know what to do with those either. I might put them on the web site in packs of 20 or something.

<hr width=100% size=1>John
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.allgadgets.co.uk>http://www.allgadgets.co.uk</A>