Shell rimular oil - should i change?

John100156

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I want to do an oil change on both my TAMD63P (370Hp - circa 600 Hrs) engines early September, before a trip over to Mallorca.

I know VP recommend VDS-2 for these engines which is I believe around ACEA-03 specification (not that I really know what that is save only I assume the higher the number the better the oil, but suspect that might not be strictly true either, anyway), I was thinking of using Shell Rimular X 15W40 which I believe some have used with good results which is ACEA-07 Specification.

I suppose my question is, is it worth changing, clearly I would like a very good quality oil with say a two year change interval if possible, but do not want to change unless it is felt that this might afford better protection. I do not see it could cause any problems but if any feel it might I would be interested in their comments too!

Any guidance welcome in this regard.
 
The manual recommends various viscosity grades for different ambient temperature ranges.


Oils to API spec CD or CE is recommended in the manual but these are obsolete specs.

VDS oil is only required for long intervals between oil changes. It's been developed for use in transport fleet vehicles so that they can run for longer periods between oil changes
See the manual for some details.

Shell Rimula X 15W/40 complies with

ACEA E3;
API CH-4, CG-4, CF-4, CF;
MB 228.3;
MAN M 3275;
Volvo VDS-2;
RVI RD;
MTU type 2;
Cummins CES 20071, 72, 75, 76;
Mack EO-M Plus;
GM Allison C4;
CAT ECF-1(meets);
ZF TE-ML 07C.
 
You also need to make sure that the existing oil and the new oil are compatible or you will have to do a flush between. Try giving the Shell Customer Service Centre a call 08708 500 924 from UK and they should be able to advise.
(Yes, I work for Shell!)
 
I use Shell Rimula R4 in my Yanmar engine, which is a 75KW (about 89hp) turbocharged one. I use it because it is readily available in Turkey and was the oil in the engine when I bought the boat. It appears that neither Rimula X or R4 are synthetic, as the Shell website does not say that they are; perhaps someone can confirm this. I would however never dream of leaving the same oil in for two years, indeed I change the oil every 50 hours and do an oil change without changing the filter at the end of the season, as I don't want to leave old oil which may have acids in it over winter. At that time a 4 litre can fills the engine above the low mark. I then run the engine to circulate the clean oil and leave it over winter. At the start of the season I have the engine serviced, which includes running it to get it hot, and doing a full oil and filter change. My routine may be overkill, but the engine has done more than 4500 hours, and my view is that oil costs a lot less than an engine rebuild.
 
Norman, I do understand what you're saying the newer the oil the better, but I think a good oil should last at least two years in a motor boat, happy to take correction on this, I only did around 600NM last year and would expect the same this year.

Vic, thanks for the Specs, I need to do a little more digging. If it complies with VDS-2 then it complies with the Volvo manual which is good.

Tranona, I don't like double posting, but you're probably right, should have posted on MoBo!

Maxi84 - Good point, should be OK but worth checking thanks for the number!

Thanks for responses - still open to more advice any.....
 
I would not leave oil in for two years. The issue is that when you run any engine, particularly a diesel, contaminents get into the oil, and show up by the oil turning black instead of the nice golden colour it had when new. The colour is not the problem, it is that some of the contaminents from combustion are corrosive. Good oils minimise the corrosion but cannot wholly prevent it, which is why I overwinter the engine with clean oil in it.
 
Vic, thanks for the Specs, I need to do a little more digging.

Take care. You can dig a whacking great hole when it comes to trying to understand oil specs and still be none the wiser, just more confused.
 
I would not leave oil in for two years. The issue is that when you run any engine, particularly a diesel, contaminents get into the oil, and show up by the oil turning black instead of the nice golden colour it had when new. The colour is not the problem, it is that some of the contaminents from combustion are corrosive. Good oils minimise the corrosion but cannot wholly prevent it, which is why I overwinter the engine with clean oil in it.
I can see the sense in changing the engine oil annually even if the engine hasn't run much. Is it necessary to change the filter though? The element shouldn't be anywhere near getting blocked. A small amount of old contaminated oil will be lying in the filter housing over the winter but this won't be in a position to corrode the engine.
 
Is it worth the risk

I can see the sense in changing the engine oil annually even if the engine hasn't run much. Is it necessary to change the filter though? The element shouldn't be anywhere near getting blocked. A small amount of old contaminated oil will be lying in the filter housing over the winter but this won't be in a position to corrode the engine.

Oil filters are really cheap - the big Powerpart ones on my Perkins Sabres were a fiver from a truck dealer - is it worth not changing them?
 
Take care. You can dig a whacking great hole when it comes to trying to understand oil specs and still be none the wiser, just more confused.

Quite correct. I have deliberately kept out of this one as I know little of mobo lubricants. I could have made general statements but not from experience. There is far more experience on the mobo forum.
 
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