Shaft zinc anodes - is it ok to clean & refit?

PetiteFleur

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Hi, just removed my shaft zinc anodes - is it ok to clean up with drill & wire brush and refit or do I need to buy new? Have cleaned up at home and got 95% of the white deposit off. (Just trying to save money as mooring fees etc have gone up...)
 
If they are approaching 50% gone change them.

If thay are mainly intact reattach them, check for electrical continuity with the ohm setting on a circuit tester, and carry on.

Probably best not to use a steel wire brush to clean 'em up as bits of iron can be left in the anodes increasing likelihood of galvanic corrosion.

Someone will be along soon to outline the galvanic corrosion risks

Vyv Cox' s website gave great info on this topic.
 
If they are approaching 50% gone change them.

If thay are mainly intact reattach them, check for electrical continuity with the ohm setting on a circuit tester, and carry on.

Probably best not to use a steel wire brush to clean 'em up as bits of iron can be left in the anodes increasing likelihood of galvanic corrosion.

Someone will be along soon to outline the galvanic corrosion risks

Vyv Cox' s website gave great info on this topic.
As PP says, iron in extremely low concentrations will inhibit the performance of zinc anodes according to research carried out by USA military. It is safer not to use steel tools but by all means use other metals, e.g. a brass wire brush.
 
Someone on Facebook criticised me for reusing a hull anode but it was only 6% less in weight than a new one. Having cleaned the old one I cant see any reason why it should be less efficient than a new one and I am marginally better off financially for doing so. My shaft anode however is usually worn to an extent I put a new one on. Vyv was it one of your articles that suggested by painting various parts that may be subject to galvanic corrosion you protect them and make your anodes last longer?
 
The only advantage of changing anodes that are only a little worn...is the boat can stay in the water longer before the next take out. This might not sound like much of an advantage....but if at the end of next season there is a delay in taking the boat out...extended poor weather....broken crane...personal problems....that extra few weeks of peace of mind might just be worth the extra cost. And the zinc you replace doesn’t get thrown away...it’s in your parts box for reuse at another time
 
Someone on Facebook criticised me for reusing a hull anode but it was only 6% less in weight than a new one. Having cleaned the old one I cant see any reason why it should be less efficient than a new one and I am marginally better off financially for doing so. My shaft anode however is usually worn to an extent I put a new one on. Vyv was it one of your articles that suggested by painting various parts that may be subject to galvanic corrosion you protect them and make your anodes last longer?
Yes indeed it was. Painting a propeller reduces the area of the cathode, prolonging the anode life. Since painting my Bruntons the prop anode life has doubled, 1 - 2 years and the shaft anode probably more, 2 years to more than 4.
Propeller antifouling with Velox
 
The only advantage of changing anodes that are only a little worn...is the boat can stay in the water longer before the next take out. This might not sound like much of an advantage....but if at the end of next season there is a delay in taking the boat out...extended poor weather....broken crane...personal problems....that extra few weeks of peace of mind might just be worth the extra cost. And the zinc you replace doesn’t get thrown away...it’s in your parts box for reuse at another time
Surely if they're only a little worn then you wouldn't be expecting them to massively decay over the next season? Like, if 25% had gone in year one it'd be really weird for the next 50% to go in year two and for a few extra weeks to make a difference?

(Not had to worry about this yet - if my intuition is wrong I'd really like to know!)
 
Surely if they're only a little worn then you wouldn't be expecting them to massively decay over the next season? Like, if 25% had gone in year one it'd be really weird for the next 50% to go in year two and for a few extra weeks to make a difference?

(Not had to worry about this yet - if my intuition is wrong I'd really like to know!)
Unfortunately "wear" is not necessarily linear, particularly if the boat moves around and is moored in different locations. similarly, if the galvanic action is reduced by painting the cathodic item and the paint breaks down, action may increase. Given the relatively low cost of anodes compared with both other maintenance costs and haulout charges it makes sense to err on the conservative side and replace the anode at scheduled haulouts.
 
Surely if they're only a little worn then you wouldn't be expecting them to massively decay over the next season? Like, if 25% had gone in year one it'd be really weird for the next 50% to go in year two and for a few extra weeks to make a difference?

(Not had to worry about this yet - if my intuition is wrong I'd really like to know!)
If an anode is 25% gone....and you do annual haul outs...I would definitely replace it. 50% is generally considered finished....so it doesn’t leave you with much leeway.....anything could happen, for example a stray current in the water or a steel boat ties up next to you.
Also if the anodes are not fizzing away...then they may not be doing their job...so I would look at exploring why, for example are they the correct anode material for your location
 
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