Shackles ?

[Elemental]

I had to replace the traveller on Seaspray (Ben. Oceanis 351) - the car had broken and Amiot/Goit/Plastimo either no longer exist or no longer manufacture the parts. After much shenanigans, the yard managed to adapt this Ronstan unit to fit the current I-Beam track. Result However, I normally use a soft shackle to attach the bottom block of the mainsheet cascade to the traveller, but if I attach it to the main clevis pin it rubs on the side cheeks of the unit (the cascade is slightly forward of the track). Can someone suggest a fitting that I can put in the main pin to raise the shackle attachment point clear of the cheeks as a standoff.. I'm thinking of some kind of clevis pin shackle - or anything else really.
The main clevis pin is 12mm diameter and the gap between the two cheeks is 27mm.
I intended to attach the traveller control lines directly to the side clevis pins but again, using some kind of shackle might be better.

 

[tudorsailor]

What about one of these, either off the shelf or DIY Barton High Load Low Friction Eyes w/ Dyneema Loop | Marine Super Store
TS

 

[andsarkit]

Would a toggle work?
rigging toggle

You could pack any gaps with rubber washers so that it doesn't flop around too much when you gybe.

 

[PetiteFleur]

Or pack the gap with a short length of suitable sized pvc tubing? I've just done this on my blocks on the deck mounted track for my genoa sheets. Works well and stops the block hitting the window and clonking on the deck.

 

[TernVI]

I was thinking toggle too.
But alternatively, you could put some plastic washers or something on the big clevis pin, inside the fitting to reduce the chafe. I've done something similar the chafe has really been negligible, although I used a lashing of thin dyneema rather than a soft shackle.
You could also use a fine file to gently radius the edge of the fitting, taking care that the fallout doesn't go in the bearings of course!

 

[Elemental]

Some good ideas here.
The rigging toggle looks like it could work. There's a 12mm one too. I might investigate some plastic washers or pipe to hold it centrally.

Alternatively, although my soft shackles are all Dyneema, I still wonder about chafe... But rounding out the edges is also a possibility and Dyneema doesn't rattle and clatter...

 

[Poignard]

 

[tjbrace]

I use a snap shackle so I can ‘park’ the mainsheet to either side deck. This stops unnecessary wear on the car when not sailing. I had the original cars on both my current and previous boats fail probably due to the perpetual movement when parked.

 

[William_H]

I would try just an ordinary old fashioned stainless steel shackle. My jib sheet sheaves have a spring around the shackle to make them stand up. Perhaps you could try just wrapping gaffer tape or similar around the shackle to help it stand up.
Re traveler control lines. I use a 3 purchase system so one sheave with a becket at the car. However because I never need to pull the car very far to windward of centre I use stainless steel wire strops between the car and the sheave. (40 to 50 cms long for you) This reduces amount of rope involved and in your case make a convenient attachment to the little clevis pins. Incidentally I use that same car on my 6.5m trailer sailer but do find the friction for traveller becomes too much if I really load up the main sheet. 2 as you have would be better . ol'will

 

[Stemar]

I would try just an ordinary old fashioned stainless steel shackle.

That was my first though too. Take out the pin on your gizmo and feed the pin of the shackle through the pin holes