Semi flex solar panel. Screw or bond?

I fixed my Photonic semiflexible panels with small stainless screws, 3 on each short side, none on the long side which conformed to the deck radius. Small amount of sealant in each hole which didn't penetrate the solid grp deck. Been fine for several years. I used pear shaped deck fittings for the wires from Index Marine which can take 2 wires. No leaks. I had to replace one panel last year, spotted through from the old panel on the new so used the same screw holes.
 
Through bolts (machine screws). But it is into the slider turtle which has no core. I take it off to work on it, since the wire also runs under the cover to a penetration that is up-hill (no possibility of leaks).

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Glued-on studs. No holes, good accommodation for curvature, and good weight distribution. For rigid panels.
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These Photonic Universe semi flex panels are actually quite stiff, they can't be taken around much of a curve.
Absolutely can hold any curve you are able to make with these panels.

Photonic Universe actually specifies a maximum curvature for their semi-flexible panels. (That they publish detailed specs such as this is one of the reasons I tend to lean towards them for my intended purchase of this type of panel.) Whether that curvature

Whether one can physically bend them to a tighter radius than specified (which would presumably risk damaging it) I wouldn't know.
 
Slight thread drift

Has anyone experience of flexible panels with the rear mounted junction box and cables?

Photonic universe specify these especially on the 200w panels.

I have used the top mounted cable terminations and have found this was the main cause of partial or complete failure of flexible panels.

Failure in a two to five year cycle seems typical and makes the screw down option more favourable!

Just interested in others experience as I am shortly to clad a new hard top with 1/2 kW of new solar panels.
 
Slight thread drift

Has anyone experience of flexible panels with the rear mounted junction box and cables?

Photonic universe specify these especially on the 200w panels.

I have used the top mounted cable terminations and have found this was the main cause of partial or complete failure of flexible panels.

Failure in a two to five year cycle seems typical and makes the screw down option more favourable!

Just interested in others experience as I am shortly to clad a new hard top with 1/2 kW of new solar panels.

I spent time online to find panels with top mounted junction box - specifically to avoid problems fixing to deck. So many are rear junction box - which then creates a problem how to mount flush to deck.

I have a couple of small panels with rear boxes ... one is clipped to pushpit rail - so the box is not a problem ... another is velcro'd to my speedboat and luckily the junction is thin and doesn't hinder fixing ... but the wires regularly come unsoldered from the rear ...
 
One word of warning with deck mounted solar panels. When I removed the old panel on my hatch box, there was some osmosis due to capillary action keeping moisture under the panel. The new panel has some 3 mm plastic rectangular rods regularly spaced under the new panels to stop this happening again. When I ever have any crew aboard, I stress they should not stand on the solar panel even though it should not be a problem, especially as when wet they are far more slippery than the non slip deck paint.
 
Just done it with the same 60W semi flexible panel from Photonic Universe. Cabin roof has a gentle curve. Stuck down with Sikaflex and taped with decent 3M 50mm tape until set. It's very slightly raised at the outer edges (2mm) but nowhere near enough to catch anything or lift.
 
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