Securing jackstays

[Dyflin]

I picked up a couple of jackstays at LIBS and am now scratching my head as to the best way to attach them to the boat. Neither end has a loop, so bearing in mind the weight/load that potentially may come on them in an emergency, what's the best way of securing them to the deck?

 

[Skyva_2]

What would you like to attach them to - toe rail, deck eye?

We (well SWMBO) machine zig zag stitched a long loop at each end and covered the loops with sailcloth for UV protection.

 

[Dyflin]

Toe rail or cleat most likely candidates.

 

[LadyInBed]

Neither end has a loop - So you were sold two lengths of webbing? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[PeterGibbs]

Sounds like these items were not specifically designed as jackstays - but they may still be usable providing the material is comparable in strength.

Webbing for jackstays is pretty tough stuff - you should show yours to a sailmaker to check it out. It pays to do things right in this department!

Putting a loop in each end is easy and won't cost much at the sailmakers with nice D rings to take the load. Then link to the toerail or, as I do, the staunchion base/forward cleats. Be sure to have them fairly taut - not twanging - so you don't trip.

Finally, get them off when not really needed. UV light will send them to the skip in no time otherwise.

PWG

 

[Dyflin]

Excellent advice, many thanks Peter!

 

[Refueler]

To put eyes in the end, I would advise to hand stitch with sailmakers thread. Proper waxed or carpet thread run through beeswax. Most machines are not capable of using such thread and a domestic sewing machine will not create a strong enough joint. Consider the shock load that would come on in real life ?
Hand stitch to a simialr pattern to what you see on a cars seat belt, making sure that webbing is folded back enough length to give a good run of stitching. make sure webbing end is heat sealed or if not possible then run superglue along the cut end to firm it up.
The stitching on a car seat belt is usually in a double stitced N config. This gives high strength allied to using good thread.

I would only machine stitch if access to a sailmakers machine or industrial which can use the heavier thread / material / needles.

As to making fast on board - I use rope tails (4mm) but minimum 3 turns and then made fast. Forward to the pulpit base, aft to well secured stanchion base. But you must be sure that whatever you use fwd and aft can take that shock load. I see some boats that are strong fwd but useless aft - people forget that load can slide aft and put lot of strain on that aft connection.
Best of course is well padded / backed eye-bolts through deck or toe-rail if substantial

 

[Ruffles]

Thicker webbing is often stitched along the line of the tape. This is because the stitching disappears into the weave. Important for climbing slings but would also reduce UV degradation. If your worried about stitching it use a tape knot.

I use the "3 Tonne Jackstay Polyester Webbing" from http://www.sailcloth.co.uk/. Wish it wasn't white though. It ends up green soon enough!

 

[Boathook]

Mine are secured up front near to the base of the inner forestay and aft with dedicated through deck U bolts. Pads of ply have been used to reinforce areas as required.

 

[ghostlymoron]

I have stainless 'U' bolts aft to secure them to with ply backers. The foreward end is secured to a mooring cleat. I use a double overhand knot to form a loop at the forward end rather than relying on DIY stitching although a sail maker would stitch them for you for a few quid.

 

[kds]

Jackstays attached at the toerail are little use - they won't do anything until you are already over the side.
Connect them as close to the centre-line and as high up as practical.
No - you won't see this on many boats - just the ones that know !
ken /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[LadyInBed]

I made my own, I stitched loops into the ends using Dyneema braid fishing line.
To fit them, I put the loop through a dedicated U bolt up by the bow cleat then feed the rest of the webbing back through the loop, so no shackle required in that end.
The aft ends are shackled to the deck U bolts where the Mizzen stays attach.
I don't think stanchion bases are strong enough.

 

[VARNE]

Re: Securing jackstays[re dyflin]

Second "kds" above.
Like you, I have a 27footer. 3 "U" bolts along the centreline, the middle one to stop too much deviation. This should, theoretically, stop me BEFORE I reach the water.

 

[dulcibella]

Re: Securing jackstays[re dyflin]

Tie the loops using a "tape knot" - this climbers' knot is simply an overhand knot tidied to avoid twists in the tape. Then stitch each end onto the working part so that the knot can't work loose. The knot provides the strength and the stitching stops it from working loose.

 

[Alfie168]

Re: Securing jackstays[re dyflin]

[ QUOTE ]
Second "kds" above.
Like you, I have a 27footer. 3 "U" bolts along the centreline, the middle one to stop too much deviation. This should, theoretically, stop me BEFORE I reach the water.

[/ QUOTE ]

So.are you saying that you have a single jackstay that runs down the centreline, over the cabin roof past the mast stay with a mid point attachment as well as the bow. Or do you run two through the same U bolts, one each side of the mast?

Where do you place your strong point/U bolt at the rear? is it forward of the wheel/tiller in the cockpit floor?

I'm genuinely curious as its one of those jobs I ought to do and any explanation is helpful and informative, and running a jackstay down the centreline had not been in my plans up to now, but for obvious reasons it seems like a very sensible method. Sorry if I sound a bit simple..its cos I am /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Tim

 

[VARNE]

Re: Securing jackstays[re Alfie 168]

Yes, one line down the centreline. Webbing simply runs through the middle U bolt [Thinking about that I should "double" it around to further reduce deviation]. Rear bolt as far back as possible on coachroof.
Separate U bolts in cockpit, so do have to re-clip to go forward. Wouldn't be practical to run webbing into cockpit [and it wouldn't look good!].

 

[damo]

Re: Securing jackstays[re dyflin]

That's the method I use, and the way climbing webbing was tied for many years before machine-stitching arrived. It is weaker than a properly-stitched loop, as is any knot, but plenty good enough IMO.

(This usually provokes comments along the lines of "not professionally done, therefore unsafe" , "not a method I'm familiar with so it's no good" etc etc /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif To which I say that generations of climbers have trusted their lives to it, and regularly tested their knots for real )

 

[PetiteFleur]

Re: Securing jackstays[re dyflin]

I stitched my own as I have an industrial sewing machine. I also fitted snapshackles on each end so they can be easily removed when not needed, to avoid UV degradation - I do have to mark them P & S as they are not identical lengths! If fitting them again I would fit them on the edge of the coachroof - as mentioned not so far to fall and much easier to clip on.

 

[kds]

Re: Securing jackstays[re dyflin]

I use twin jack-stays from a U bolt forward of the mast to a strong arch above my main hatch, designed to take these and the double mainsheet system. I also have Separate U bolts for use in the cockpit and on the foredeck.
Ken

 

[MoodySabre]

Another good idea here. There is a tendency for the hook on a lifeline to snag or at least not slide easily along a webbing jackstay. I have a stainless steel ring on each of my jackstays and you clip on to that. It slides easily along and does not snag.