Seakeeper gyro report

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted User YDKXO
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Thanks again for the tip, Nick. Here is my anode after less than 4 months in the water
A bit o/t, but your pic reminded me of the anodes in my engine exhausts.
Can't remember by heart if you have any in yours (I believe you don't anywhere else in your engines, as well as I don't in mine), but if yes, it's worth checking/replacing them frequently.
 
A bit o/t, but your pic reminded me of the anodes in my engine exhausts.
Can't remember by heart if you have any in yours (I believe you don't anywhere else in your engines, as well as I don't in mine), but if yes, it's worth checking/replacing them frequently.

I can't remember either!
 
Great report Deleted User. Your evaluation is pretty much inline with what we experienced with an SK5 on our old P43.

We have the choice of an SK16 or Side-Power VF1050 hydraulic stabilisation system on our P75 but having owned both types of systems I'll take fins every time. For me the substantially better performance at 20 knots far outweighs the slightly inferior performance at anchor.

I appreciate this wasn't an option for you and in your situation I would have done exactly the same.
 
We have the choice of an SK16 or Side-Power VF1050 hydraulic stabilisation system on our P75 but having owned both types of systems I'll take fins every time. For me the substantially better performance at 20 knots far outweighs the slightly inferior performance at anchor.
Agree with that entirely. Having had a chance to use my Seakeeper gyro extensively recently, it is clear that on my boat at least, the effect of the gyro reduces significantly with speed. At rest it performs to its optimum, at displacement speed the effect reduces with speed and at planing speed there is no discernable effect. I was looking primarily for zero speed stabilisation and ease/cost of retrofitting so a gyro made sense but if I was specifying a boat from new, I would go for fins if the option existed. In fact in an ideal world you'd probably specify fins for stabilisation at speed and a gyro for stabilisation at rest because one thing the gyro does have in its favour is practically no noise or vibration plus of course its never going to walk the boat forward in the middle of the night!
 
its never going to walk the boat forward in the middle of the night!
Humphree fins now address that, by turning 180° during zero speed operation.
That's only feasible with electrically actuated fins of course - in fact, I did suggest Mr.AC (CMC founder) to include that feature in their equipment years ago, well before Humphree even built electric fin stabs.
Don't ask me why he didn't care... :nonchalance:
 
Think a new boat I would specify fins and gyro - few years before I get another one though. Not sure about having the fins operating when I am snorkelling around the boat, something I do often as fish seem to like the shade. Gyro so far is a 'game changer' at anchor!
 
I've not heard about this effect. Is it an issue on some boats?
It is on every fin stabilized boat in some conditions, i.e. whenever there isn't at least a gentle breeze, because the fins movements have always the side effect of slightly pushing the boat forward.
By rotating 180°, Humphree fins reverse this effect and push the boat away from the anchor.
But as I said, that's only possible because electric motors have no restrictions in the rotation angle.
 
Yup Magnum, all fin stabbed boats walk forwards at anchor, but only in some conditions. Mainly in places like Villefranche where you can get swell (hence stabs running hard) and little wind (so boat isn't pushed back on the anchor chain). You just need to be aware of it but in my book it is a tiny issue and not worth worrying about. I discovered it early on, on my first finned boat in 2011, yet I have stuck with fins since then (because as you say they are far better than gyros underway) and I'd spec fins on any new boat in the future. It's a tiny issue and never happens if there is a breeze to hold the boat back.

Electric fins can in principle rotate 180 deg to avoid this but that small advantage in no way compensates for the big noise levels in electric fin gearboxes, which will be with us until/unless different gearboxes become available. CMC have done better in this regard than Humphree imho. Here's a video in relation to which Hump threatened legal action against me this summer then shut up when I showed them I have an even worse one that I haven't yet published :D:D:D (yep, Humphree score low in my book on freedom of speech :D:D): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjFEoynDPwI In contrast, your sleipner fins will be near silent, even in the master cabin when you're right beside the actuators.

The only thing to remember is that all this gear needs maintenance and Princess are vary capable of putting fin actuators under the bathroom floor and placing a bathtub or stone tiled mosaic shower above, with zero access hatches. I'd check this if I were you: I have a friend whose bathtub/mosaic tiles are being taken out today on a Princess 82 because the Trac fin under the bath needs maintenance. You just gotta hope whichever yard you pick puts it all back nicely. The labour bill, which I've seen, is pretty punchy. On my boat the fin actuators are both fully accessible by lifting floor hatches and removing one cupboard which was specifically made removable in the first place, and this is what you need imho if you plan keeping the boat > 2years.
 
Here's a video in relation to which Hump threatened legal action against me this summer then shut up when I showed them I have an even worse one that I haven't yet published
Care to expand on that?
 
The only thing to remember is that all this gear needs maintenance and Princess are vary capable of putting fin actuators under the bathroom floor and placing a bathtub or stone tiled mosaic shower above, with zero access hatches. I'd check this if I were you: I have a friend whose bathtub/mosaic tiles are being taken out today on a Princess 82 because the Trac fin under the bath needs maintenance. You just gotta hope whichever yard you pick puts it all back nicely. The labour bill, which I've seen, is pretty punchy. On my boat the fin actuators are both fully accessible by lifting floor hatches and removing one cupboard which was specifically made removable in the first place, and this is what you need imho if you plan keeping the boat > 2years.
Good idea jfm. I'll ask the question.
 
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Yup Magnum, all fin stabbed boats walk forwards at anchor, but only in some conditions. Mainly in places like Villefranche where you can get swell (hence stabs running hard) and little wind (so boat isn't pushed back on the anchor chain). You just need to be aware of it but in my book it is a tiny issue and not worth worrying about. I discovered it early on, on my first finned boat in 2011, yet I have stuck with fins since then (because as you say they are far better than gyros underway) and I'd spec fins on any new boat in the future. It's a tiny issue and never happens if there is a breeze to hold the boat back.

Electric fins can in principle rotate 180 deg to avoid this but that small advantage in no way compensates for the big noise levels in electric fin gearboxes, which will be with us until/unless different gearboxes become available. CMC have done better in this regard than Humphree imho. Here's a video in relation to which Hump threatened legal action against me this summer then shut up when I showed them I have an even worse one that I haven't yet published :D:D:D (yep, Humphree score low in my book on freedom of speech :D:D): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjFEoynDPwI In contrast, your sleipner fins will be near silent, even in the master cabin when you're right beside the actuators.

The only thing to remember is that all this gear needs maintenance and Princess are vary capable of putting fin actuators under the bathroom floor and placing a bathtub or stone tiled mosaic shower above, with zero access hatches. I'd check this if I were you: I have a friend whose bathtub/mosaic tiles are being taken out today on a Princess 82 because the Trac fin under the bath needs maintenance. You just gotta hope whichever yard you pick puts it all back nicely. The labour bill, which I've seen, is pretty punchy. On my boat the fin actuators are both fully accessible by lifting floor hatches and removing one cupboard which was specifically made removable in the first place, and this is what you need imho if you plan keeping the boat > 2years.

given that zero speed fins and their hardware are far bigger and chunkier than ones that only work underway, why not just put the fins on backwards, ie forward of the axle. It would have to work harder underway but does that matter?
 
given that zero speed fins and their hardware are far bigger and chunkier than ones that only work underway, why not just put the fins on backwards, ie forward of the axle. It would have to work harder underway but does that matter?
That's some nice lateral thinking indeed.
I don't think the higher load would be too hard to handle, for hydraulic pistons sized to move fins pretty fast at rest.
Otoh, it might be tricky to design fins which should withstand a big load in their thinner section (because of course the wing profile should be reversed too).

Anyway, I have a funny feeling that all these things will be blown away in a very near future, as dual axis fins are beginning to be available in the market.
And aside from being, by design, vastly superior to traditional fins at anchor (regardless of whether electric or hydraulic, and straight or curved), they also don't have the walk forward side effect which is being discussed.
 
That's some nice lateral thinking indeed.
I don't think the higher load would be too hard to handle, for hydraulic pistons sized to move fins pretty fast at rest.
Otoh, it might be tricky to design fins which should withstand a big load in their thinner section (because of course the wing profile should be reversed too).
It also begs the question why, if electric fins are driven by electric motors, hydraulic fins cannot be driven by hydraulic motors instead of hydraulic rams in order to be reversible. Yes controlling the precise movement of the hydraulic motor will be more of a problem but not insurmountable and the size of the motor might be an issue but it would get over the walking forward issue with fins driven by hydraulic rams and hydraulic motors might be quieter than either electric motors or hydraulic rams
 
given that zero speed fins and their hardware are far bigger and chunkier than ones that only work underway, why not just put the fins on backwards, ie forward of the axle. It would have to work harder underway but does that matter?
Alas it wouldn't work Elessar.
As MM says, yon need to reverse the profile to reduce drag, which creates mechanical problems. But more important is that the water flow can beat the hydraulics. With a normal hydraulic fin, if it splays out to the side and you take the boat to 30 knots or whatever, the water flow torque can beat the torque from the hydraulics, in extremis, but that doesn't matter a jot because the hydraulic relief valve just opens and the fin naturally moves to towards the straight ahead position until the hydraulic pressure reduces. Perfectly ok. In contrast, if the fin were mounted the other way then as soon as the water flow beats the hydraulics the fin moves out even more and you get a vicious circle till everything breaks. You could of course beef up the hydraulics (and everything else) massively but building a system that can withstand a fin out sideways at 90 degrees and 30 knots is a daft thing to do. The nice thing about trailing fins is that you build them strong but you make hydraulics the weakest link, so the pressure relief valve opens before anything breaks. It's a neat thing to do and is how you build a lot of hydraulic machinery of course. You can get a similar effect with electrics by measuring current draw in the motor and winding the fin back in when the current reaches a too-high threshold.

With electrics, you can flip the fin to point forwards when in zero speed mode but it always trails back when underway, to avoid the above problem. You can actually flip a fin to point forwards using rack and pinion hydraulics (as per Sleipner's smaller fins, the size down from mine) if you build longer racks, but that creates space/fit issues in the 60-70 foot market that this product is aimed at. Definitely can be done, if any one wants to. But the compromises you'd make are not worth the very slight benefit of the boat "walking forwards", in most people's opinion.

I agree with Mapis that other solutions to walking might emerge, though I don't see the dmsholland dual axis idea as the solution - there is much cleverer thinking in the works. There are technical issues and compromises, as ever of course. Another low-tech thing you can do, as you have hydraulics running anyway, is fit a "stern thruster" that lowers from a pod or folds from transom and drives the boat backwards at 1 knot. Lots of new ideas will emerge in stabilisation in next few years, now that there are several serious makers who need to compete. All great for us the consumer.
 
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It also begs the question why, if electric fins are driven by electric motors, hydraulic fins cannot be driven by hydraulic motors instead of hydraulic rams in order to be reversible. Yes controlling the precise movement of the hydraulic motor will be more of a problem but not insurmountable and the size of the motor might be an issue but it would get over the walking forward issue with fins driven by hydraulic rams and hydraulic motors might be quieter than either electric motors or hydraulic rams
If using hydraulics it's probably easier Mike to use rack and pinion, with racks long enough to create say 270 degrees of fin rotation. Controlling the angular position of a classic hydraulic vane motor is pretty difficult and an electric system would stabilise the boat much better I expect. Also hydr motors tend to need axial length to get high torques, which increases installation height. If walk-forwarding was a big problem then people might accept the downside and cost of these solutions, but it isn't.
 
If using hydraulics it's probably easier Mike to use rack and pinion, with racks long enough to create say 270 degrees of fin rotation. Controlling the angular position of a classic hydraulic vane motor is pretty difficult and an electric system would stabilise the boat much better I expect.
Yes rack and pinion is one way but a reduction gearbox would be another. Yes controlling the angular position is an issue which is why I mentioned it but with a low geared reduction gearbox and an electronic control system it should be possible

Also hydr motors tend to need axial length to get high torques, which increases installation height.
Again correct. They do tend to be quite tall which again is why I said the size of the motor might be an issue. Yes I accept your point re walking forward not being a big issue. Having anchored in Villefranche many times in the last year, I cant say I've seen loads of fin stabilised mobos wandering all over the bay and crashing into each other:D
 
I agree with Mapis that other solutions to walking might emerge, though I don't see the dmsholland dual axis idea as the solution - there is much cleverer thinking in the works.
Well, I only read a review of the DMS thing, and I have zero first hand experience on them, so for all I know they can well be an awful product for whatever reason.
But while as you surely remember I was very critical about the Sleipner fuss on curved fins, I do see clearly several advantages in the dual axis design - avoidance of walk forward effect being the very last of them, in terms of relevance.
No matter how much cleverer thinking anyone can have on the drawing table, THIS is imho the first radical innovation in fin stabilization to hit the market, which makes both electrical actuators and curved fins just minor details, in comparison.
 
No matter how much cleverer thinking anyone can have on the drawing table, THIS is imho the first radical innovation in fin stabilization to hit the market, which makes both electrical actuators and curved fins just minor details, in comparison.
Its radical but is it scaleable down to smaller boats? And then what sort of cost would it be relative to the cost of a smaller boat? And would any production builder be willing to fit it on one of their grp hulls? How much drag would it create on a planing hull? My guess is that DMS know already that this system wont scale down which is why they're aiming it at the 30m+ market and my guess displacement steel boats only
 
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