Seagull outboard

I took the plug out, cleaned it and set the gap.I found the fuel system was blocked so I have cleaned that out and now have fuel coming through. The engine is in the club tank now but won't start. I'm just about to take the plug out and check for a spark, if it is not sparking I will probably stop and order a new HT lead. Is there anything I can do with the wipac 2 unit? Still not sure if the are points. If there are I will check them.
Allan
 
Allan said:
I took the plug out, cleaned it and set the gap.I found the fuel system was blocked so I have cleaned that out and now have fuel coming through. The engine is in the club tank now but won't start. I'm just about to take the plug out and check for a spark, if it is not sparking I will probably stop and order a new HT lead. Is there anything I can do with the wipac 2 unit? Still not sure if the are points. If there are I will check them.
Allan
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You should be able to check the HT lead !
 
Yes!!!! Just had it running. Main problem was the plug cap. I took the lead off and checked it with a meter, all OK except the cap which is O/C. After replacing that with a self tapper and some copper wire it started second pull. I'll fit a new plug and cap then decide what I may need to do to make it more reliable. £36 plus fuel so far, not bad and kept me out of the pub this afternoon.
Many thanks for all the help from everyone.
Allan
 
Lack of spark is usually the lead or its connections as it goes into the mag. Damp in there or in the plug cover are common problems. Rarely the mag or points. You can access the latter by taking the black cover off the top and there are holes in the flywheel.
 
Allan said:
Yes!!!! Just had it running. Main problem was the plug cap. I took the lead off and checked it with a meter, all OK except the cap which is O/C. After replacing that with a self tapper and some copper wire it started second pull. I'll fit a new plug and cap then decide what I may need to do to make it more reliable. £36 plus fuel so far, not bad and kept me out of the pub this afternoon.
Many thanks for all the help from everyone.
Allan
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I dont know if you have the same type of plug cap as I have on my 73 and 74 models.
A hard black plastic cap with a knurled screw on the top.

I am not over overenthusiastic about those.

I've had mine work loose and drop off the plug while going along.
So I tightened the screw with a pair of pliers.
Then I managed to unscrew the terminal out of the top of the plug when I tried to remove it.

One of mine is very worn somewhere in there now. Not sure if its going to get to the point where it wont make proper contact on the plug.

Seriously thinking of getting a moulded rubber one ( Johnson/Evinrude one or similar) that pushes tightly onto the top of the plug.
 
Certainly easier to fix than my Mariner. Bought a 40+ with recoil starter on top. Nice condition 25.1 mix. Fuel lever has been changed to a motor bike one that you unscrew. All works well unless you flick the choke shut and put your hand over the end of the carb to stop it. You then leave it a couple of weeks and try to restart it :rolleyes: but then its a bit of a learning curve.

The Mariner gear selection is now sorted. Seized shaft in alloy that had to be drilled out and repaired. The handle and bits were £76.

Looking forward to trying the new Seagull. Seems far lighter than the 3.5 Mariner or is it just the age showing.
 
Vic, Mine was a Champion cap. I think I will see what Save old Seagulls has to offer, as I will probably change the points as well. I want to try and make this motor as reliable as I can.
Next job is the gearbox oil. I assume it involves removing the plastic plug at the front of the gearbox. Is that a level screw or do I just fill it with as much as I can get in?
Allan
 
Yes, remove the plastic plug. The handbook recommends lying the engine down and filling to the top, though I have seen it recommended to fill vertically. The gear oil should be at least 140 ( and maybe 225 if the bushes are worn, not 90 as in an earlier post).

140 is not easy to get and gear oil has been the subject of much discussion on SOS. I'm planning to use marine grease diluted with engine oil (or engine oil thickened with marine grease!). Grease on it's own is a no-no.
 
Allan said:
Vic, Mine was a Champion cap. I think I will see what Save old Seagulls has to offer, as I will probably change the points as well. I want to try and make this motor as reliable as I can.
Next job is the gearbox oil. I assume it involves removing the plastic plug at the front of the gearbox. Is that a level screw or do I just fill it with as much as I can get in?
Allan
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I've never changed the points in either of mine. I dont know how easy/ difficult it is to do wih the flywheel still or even if possible with it on.

If you take it off do so as described on the website .... not with a puller.

BUT if its now running Ok why change them ... Don't fix what is not broken.
I take it that you have now determined that it has points and is not not electronic.

Gear box filler is the plastic plug on the end cap. It is now advised that the correct level is up to the bottom of the hole with the engine standing upright. But you will have to lay it down to fill it, then stand it up to let excess run out, at least that's what I do.

But what oil? You say the engine number suggests EP90 , which is easy to obtain. Maybe Tranona can advise how to easily recognise a box suitable for EP 90

Have you decided what carb is fitted... exploded diagrams in the FAQs section of the website will identify it if not.
 
Your box needs SAE90, the clutched ones have real oil seals and that's the recommended oil.

I thing playing about diluting grease is a recipe for trouble.
 
yellowspinnaker said:
Your box needs SAE90, the clutched ones have real oil seals and that's the recommended oil.

I thing playing about diluting grease is a recipe for trouble.
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I agree with the comment about experimenting with grease and oil.

The website tells how to recognise a sealed gearcase, even one without a clutch :
" Give away for the sealed gearboxes is an extra screw just above the cap screws, this secures the bevel bearing and seal."​

The upper cap retaining screw locates that bearing otherwise. Something to be aware of if removing the end cap.
 
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Re. HT leads.

The HT lead on my 40+ failed. I took the old one to a local (chain) garage - the bloke behind the service desk was a bit of a bike nut. "Those look like Villiers bits" he said, then came back with a short offcut of HT cable and a handful of reclaimed plug caps "see how you get on with these!". Made up a perfect new HT lead with the bits (using the old magneto end fitting, which has a screw to grip the cable).

Try a bit of scrounging!
 
Yes, 90 oil in a clutch gearbox post 1978/9. The heavy oil was used in the earlier gearboxes (including the Silver Century Plus) because they had plain bearings and no seals to stop it coming out. Contents of the gearbox usually looked like school dinner custard. Do not put heavy oil in a sealed clutch gearbox as the drag will reduce some of the already limited power. If the oil is still oil coloured, really no need to change it.

Points can be accessed, cleaned and set through th holes in the flywheel. No need to remove the flywheel. Clumsy removal can bend the crankshaft. Remember being taught how to straighten them - reward was to buy the foreman a beer when you mastered that task ('cos he was a good teacher!).
 
It is still possible to get EP140 gear oil from an Agricultural merchant - usually the smaller ones (if there are any left).
I bought a gallon some time ago and then found my clutched models use EP90.

I read on a thread somewhere that a mix of oil and grease is NOT a good idea (or worse).

You don't have to buy a No:2 needle (although they cheap enough), just screw the adjuster in the slide assembly down a turn - or thereabouts.

It's good practice to turn the engine off by closing the fuel tap and waiting until the engine stops of its own accord. I find that when I forget to turn the fuel off, the carburettor bowl gets a load of green gunge in the bottom - which stops it starting...

John at SOS does anexcellent job and should be supported, but don't forget

clicky here based at Moulsford near Wallingford. They bought up the stock of Seagull and continue to have supplies of parts manufactured. Excellent mail order service, even though it's nice for me to moor alongside them occasionally.
 
Allan said:
I've just bought a Seagull outboard from Ebay. I'm told it doesn't start so will have to sort that out. Before I ask for help to start it I will change the plug, strip and clean the carb and check the magneto output. Assuming I can get it to start what other things should I do in the way of servicing?
I believe it is a forty featherlight, it has a gear/clutch lever near the flywheel. Once I have identified it fully, I will need a manual. Is there anywhere to download one?
Allan
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Hmm, just drop it over the side next time your in deep water.
 
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