I paid £50 for mine. I think that was cheap - good condition seagulls are sometimes advertised at about £200 but that seems silly. I'd estimate between 50 and 100 beer vouchers for an average example.
yes.
sunk it a few weeks ago, dried it out a spray WD 40 same fuel / oil & it fired 2 pull started & ran after about 10 pulls.
a seagull in my ( vast experiance of dunking o/bds) wouldnt do that .
its still noisy though
A friend bought one for £30 for his small dingy the beginning of last year. Filled with fuel, started and off he went, stopped, started, stopped, stopped, stopped.
Left under Dingy, boat (with dingy) sold. Local man took outboard a few weeks ago (with owners permission) cleaned carb, engine etc. Filled with new fuel, started first pull, but banjo leaked. He bought a new banjo, engine refuses to start. We think it is because the spark is so weak, it would not create a spark. Probably the day was colder, so the air denser, causing the compression to overcome the spark. By the time you have it running reliably, you will have spent far more than it is worth, plus a day, or days of work.
The only 2 stroke worth having is a new one.
Hope you have better luck.
<hr width=100% size=1>Malcolm.
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That's been my experience with 3 of them! Awful machines, much better to buy a second hand Japanese engine such as a Yam 2hp. I threw my Seagulls on the local dump and have never looked back...
I've got an old 40+ which gets pulled out of the shed every few years and starts up to do what I need it to do then it goes back. I wouldn't get rid of it. They change hands for about £60 around here.
Despite whats been said by some people here the Seagulls reliability is legendary.
Shane Acton of "Shrimpy"fame used his as a sea anchor for several days in a tropical storm then restarted it without much bother!
If your mates wouldnt start due to a weak spark did it occur to anyone to check the points ?
Some of these engines are older than their owners .
You can spot a seagull owner a mile off ,salty old seadog with big oil stain on trousers and car boot stinks of petrol.BUT they are long lasting and reliable when maintained.
In my early teens (God, can I rememer that long ago) a friend had a BSA 125 'field' bike that we rode around the farm. In time it became unused, and the bike gathered dust. The coil and points however gathered rain and mud while lying in the grass bank alongside the path.
Months later, when I arrived one day, he had 'recovered' the engine and was litterally digging in the ground for the coil and points etc. Once assembled and a bit of petrol in the carb, etc. it was ready to try.
I, or any other sane person would have bet money it would never go. This engine had been prone to fits of non starting, yet if fired, and ran briefly first kick.
So the moral of the story.......yes some small old 2 strokes will start, despite abuse, including being submerged etc.
I think the reason the Seagull did not start is because the magnets in the flywheel magneto were too weak to generate enough electricty to over come the gap in the spark plug when it was under compression. When the plug gap was narrow enough to get a spark to jump, the spark was too weak to cause ignition.
There was a reasonable spark on the plug while outside the engine.
As I've already said. The only 2 stroke worth having is a new, or rebuilt one. That is if you want reliability.
<hr width=100% size=1>Malcolm.
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<hr width=100% size=1>Malcolm.
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One of the most common causes of non starting is the HT lead. Totally exposed to every drop of spray going the plug and lead get salty and damp - and unless the lead is in perfect nick it will kill the spark stone dead. Carry a spare new lead.
Another common problem particularly with the smaller 40 and 40+ is excessive back pressure in the exhaust. If the leg is immersed too deep, the engine cannot blow the water out of the silencer, so will not start. So the engine works perfectly on the test bench but not on the dinghy - one of the most common Seagull complaints. There is no answer, as you have to sit at the back of the dinghy to start the engine - and on a small boat this pushes the engine too far down, except to have a large crew member sitting up forward to balance the dinghy up. The same applies if you use a long shaft engine on a small dinghy. This incidentally was why the little 40 was only produced in a short shaft version.
The main reason why Seagulls could tolerate dunking, and apocryphally, prolonged immersion, and still run was because they had plain phosphor bronze bearings which were unnaffected by immersion in salt water. The pay off was that they needed the 10:1 oil mix not for lubrication but to seal the bearings. Later 25:1 engines were machined to more precise tolerances, so that the amount of oil needed to seal them was less! This is why the older ones cannot be converted.
Noisy and very polluting - like many marine 2 strokes of 30 - 40 years ago, they either went for never, or for ever. A good seagull was brilliant, a bad one was useless.
I remember in the early 70s buying a brand new ex-works 40+. It ran beautifully in the shop. But never again. Sent back to seagull even they could not get it to start, and eventually repalced it! the same 'mystery engines' were common with the old Stuart Turners. Boat builders installing them as new regualrly found ones which just would not go, for no apparent reason they or Stuarts could establish.
I know we are straying from the topic, but that's an interesting point you have brought up, new engines that won't start.
Although modern production methods have somewhat negated this. one of the reasons racing engines are so costly it that ever so often an engine just will not produce the power. There is no measurable difference in any of the parts, or a logical reason for this.
One tale I remember, and worth repeating came from the chief inspector in the late 80s. He had been on holiday and had taken his fathers new Vauxhall. While there he called to see a friend, who owned a garage, a Vauxhall main agent. When asked what he thought of the new car he noted one point was the gears were a little stiff, and hard to engage occasionally. They arranged to take the car into the garage (remember both men were professional engineers, with an interest in the subject).
The gearbox was removed and stripped, and a few new parts were replaced. This cured the problem, and it was smooth as silk, BUT while the box was stripped the inspector had measured them, and could not find any measurable difference. It was not as if some were at the extremes of allowed tollerence. To all intense and purpose they were identical.
<hr width=100% size=1>Malcolm.
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(he who narrowly missed dismasting under Poole bridge due to a combination of a 170's FNR control rod seizing in the lower casting and weed getting into the excessively vunerable gap on the drive shaft between forward and reverse) They belong in a "Museum of British Follys" before you end up in a morgue!
<hr width=100% size=1>The above is, like any other post here, only a personal opinion