Seagull fuel tank cleaning

[Seaduck]

I have an ancient, clutch less, long shaft, Seagul Silver Century 5hp. Its the type meant as a back up for a small cruiser/yacht where it doesn't matter if the big 5 bladed prop starts turning the moment it fires (interesting handling characteristics when I tried it on the back of my 8ft dinghy) with no neutral and no reverse. I bought it as a non runner for £40, 1 new spark plug and it has been 100% reliable since

It always starts on the first tug but whilst its running it pulls a green silt out of the tank. I'm assuming this is corrosion sediment from the bronze/copper fuel tank and 40+ years of varying quality two stroke mixes.

Can anyone recommend a way to clean it or am I going to have to seal the inside of the tank somehow?

Also so I don't have to row out to open water and then take off the minute I pull the cord was/is there a kit available from Seagul to fit a clutch/neutral?

Neal

 

[VicS]

I have an ancient, clutch less, long shaft, Seagul Silver Century 5hp. Its the type meant as a back up for a small cruiser/yacht where it doesn't matter if the big 5 bladed prop starts turning the moment it fires (interesting handling characteristics when I tried it on the back of my 8ft dinghy) with no neutral and no reverse. I bought it as a non runner for £40, 1 new spark plug and it has been 100% reliable since

It always starts on the first tug but whilst its running it pulls a green silt out of the tank. I'm assuming this is corrosion sediment from the bronze/copper fuel tank and 40+ years of varying quality two stroke mixes.

Can anyone recommend a way to clean it or am I going to have to seal the inside of the tank somehow?

Also so I don't have to row out to open water and then take off the minute I pull the cord was/is there a kit available from Seagul to fit a clutch/neutral?

Neal

The brass tanks are not usually much trouble... its the steel ones they fitted later that are not so good!

A good flush out i'd have thought adequate.

but can be cleaned by shaking a hand full of small nuts and a suitable solvent around inside (engineering type, not edible off trees). .. but remove the tap and filter first.

Why not post the question on the Saving old seagulls forum.

possibly some advice already on there or on the SOS website

Not simple to fit a clutch .. it would need a different gearbox I think plus what ever is necessary for the shift mechanism. Even if possible it would be more sensible I think to sell existing and buy one with a clutch.

I use a 40 Featherweight on my 8ft dinghy.... just the ticket. About 1.5hp and a shaft length 2" less than a standard shaft length for all the other models

 

[Tranona]

A LS Century is the wrong engine for a dinghy - you are right about its intended application. Cleaning the tank, as Vic says is straightforward, but the tap and little filter can be a problem, getting bunged up with oil residue. The correct engine for a typical dinghy is a 40+ short shaft - 1980 or so onwards if you want a clutch.

 

[Seaduck]

Cheers guys.

I only tried it on the tender once to see if it ran OK the day after I bought it, its actually the back up for my 18ft Dory and gets at least a twenty minute run as the main engine once a week. I'll forgo any mechanical conversions and I'm quite attached to the old beast so I'll keep it (it's not broke so why fix it?)

It's definitely a brass tank not steel, I've tried sloshing a handful of 10mm nuts (counting them going in and coming out) with a cup of fresh petrol more than once to no avail... any suggestions as to a more suitable solvent?... on closer inspection with a bore scope it looks to be ancient gum residue from really old 2 stroke mix.

It still runs 10:1 mix and as long as I flush the (thankfully transparent) fuel line from the tank to the carb every 3or4 months it runs sweet.

Neal

PS: thanks for suggesting the SOS forum

 

[VicS]

PS: thanks for suggesting the SOS forum

Most of what anybody would want to know about Seagulls is on the saving-old-seagulls website.

What isn't can usually be answered by the fanatics on the forum.
There are people there who restore these things to as new condition.

 

[Seaduck]

Awesome web site that...

I now know its a 1965 (June) Silver Century
Can be used on dinghies larger than 12ft and displacement boats up to 5tons (Thames weight not displacement weight)
Has a 3pint fuel tank
Takes EP140 gear oil

I never really paid much attention to the prop other than checking it was firmly attached... it's 4 bladed not 5 'hydro fan'

I've also totaled up about £80 on service parts

Still can't find any alternatives to the nut and solvent tank cleaning solution though?

Neal

 

[lenten]

a dishwasher tablet+very hot water+something to rattle around inside will clean tank-----------but will probably destroy your mesh filter situated above the on/off valve------regards lenten

 

[VicS]

a dishwasher tablet+very hot water+something to rattle around inside will clean tank-----------but will probably destroy your mesh filter situated above the on/off valve------regards lenten

Remove the tap and filter. Strong dishwasher detergent probably not good for the cork in the tap.

BTw instructions are on the SOS website to rejuvenate died out corks, also how to renew them and also there somewhere how to replace them with O rings.