seacock query

[suse]

Hi everyone!

The seacock at the skin fitting for the sink outlet pipe is so far behind the cooker, I would have to remove the cooker(!) every time I wanted to turn the seacock on and off. Well, obviously I'm not likely to do that - heavy, removing gas pipes, etc etc. The thing is, rather than leave it open all the time, which I dont want to do, can I insert another seacock or similar up to about half a metre along the pipe in a more accessible place? If it's on the pipework (flexible), what should it be? I dont know whether it will be possible to double up on the fixings to the skin fitting, but would do this if poss. Otherwise, any other suggestions, as ever, are very welcome. And thanks in advance as usual.

suse

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[bedouin]

I don't think that would help much. If you don't want to leave the seacock open all the time (and I wouldn't) it is primarily because you are afraid of failure where the pipe is attached to the skin fitting.

Personally I would not be comfortable with any skin fitting that I could not get to easily in an emergency. If you really can't reach it then the only real option is to move the whole fitting.

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[Sunnyseeker]

If the boats out of the water cant you move the skin fitting to where you can get at it? thats what I would do

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[MarkV]

Out of curiosity, what do you do about the hole that is left, or do you just leave the old sea cock in place (turned off and blanked) and fit a new one elsewhere?

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[AndrewB]

It is quite possible to fit a secondary seacock through any convenient bulkhead. Any decent chandler will sell you a suitable threaded/hose adapter, either in nylon or metal, which can be fixed to an inner bulkhead with a couple of nuts and will take the hose one side and a seacock the other.

But, like others, I really hate this idea and think you need to consider repositioning the seacock. At the risk of grandmothers & sucking eggs, can I describe the method which is not as difficult as you might think, quite within the realms of DIY. You will need: (i) a new skin fitting of the same diameter as the old one; (ii) a blanking cap to fit; (iii) 'Plastic Padding' marine filler; (iv) a roll of PTFE tape; (v) a drill attachment for cutting circular holes, of the same size as the skin fitting; (vi) spanners of the right size for the nut on the skin fitting and the seacock. The first four are from any decent chandler, the fifth from B&Q. Try to borrow the correct sized spanners from the yard or a plumber - a plumbers adjustible spanner is definitely second best.

I'm going to suggest you re-use the old seacock. It may be better to buy a new one, but don't leave the old one in place, unused and unconnected - for one thing it will almost certainly leak a little.

Start by unscrewing the seacock from the old skin fitting (this is often the hardest part of the whole job). Then clean the thread on the skin fitting, wrap in PTFE tape, and tighten on the blanking cap. Next comes the scarey bit, cutting the new hole through your hull, but it goes easily enough once started, just make sure it is away from other fittings on both sides of the hull. The new skin fitting is pushed into the hole from the outside, being bedded in with filler (or use Sikaflex), and its backing nut firmly tightened. Wrap the thread in PTFE, and screw on the old seacock, reattach hose.

Don't forget to warn the launch guys you've done this. if you do see some leaks when launching it shouldn't take too long to tighten up and try again.

 

[Sunnyseeker]

If it was my boat I'd shave away some of the hull on the outside to give a good key, maybe 3xdiameter of hole 5mm deep, then glass a patch, finishing with a filler that can be fared back, then on the inside roughen the surface and glass over a thin piece of marine ply held in place with self tappers after filling the hole with choppped strand and resin.
Belt and braces approach.
You could just leave it but it may corrode over a few years and when you've forgotten it's there someone will drop somoething into the back of the locker and break off the handle leaving it half open....sods law of the sea.
I'm sure you'll get loads of answers to this one on here...

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[bedouin]

I would fill it in - leaving the old sea cock in place wouldn't solve the problem of having a hole that you can't easily chuck a bung in.

I think filling the hole is a simple task - although I've never done it.

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[snowleopard]

an alternative is to make up a remote handle so that you can operate it from an accessible position. think in terms of a T-bar with a square socket on the end, something like an old fashioned plug spanner. hold it on the seacock spindle with a splitpin and put the end somewhere you can get at it.

this type of arrangement is common on commercial vessels. the shaft is sometimes led to the deck through a gland.

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[TheoSr]

Did you consider an extension to the seacock / handle? If you can "see" it, but it is out of reach, an extension could solve your problem without moving the seacock.

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[TheoSr]

just beat me by 4 minutes!

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[suse]

Cor blimey, guys - anyone would think I might know what I'm up to - obviously the original question used the correct salty language - always terrified of misnaming things nautical on this 'ere board. I think I might try reaching the darned seacock with a suitable tool. Although the description of filling holes and making holes sounds pretty damn straightforward, we're talking BOATS here - when nothing is easy, straightforward or cheap in my experience. Thanks anyway - I know you're right, just a bit beyond me and the second mate. The bosun in the boat yard might do it - the year after next!!

suse

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[jerryat]

Entirely agree! The real problem isn't addressed by inserting a secondary method of closing the pipe off.

I'd go for re-locating the seacock in a more convenient place as has been suggested in other posts.

Cheers

jerry

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[William_H]

Hello Mark Filling the hole from a seacock or paddle for a log is not difficult assumong the boat is out of the water. You shamfer the edges both on the outside and inside to 30 to 45degrees. cut circles of fibreglass in varying sizes from the size of the hole at the skin to the size of the hole in the middle ie seacock sized. Clamp or jamb a backing piece of wood cut round to the size of the hole and extending about half way through which has been covered with cling wrap or plastic shopping bag. This will ensure an easy release from the resin. You can now start with the smaller circles of glass well saturated in resin . Put layer over layer. Use chopped strand mat if it is very thick until the outside layers (larger diameter) come near to the skin surface. The trick here is to allow it to harden enough to stay in place but still green enough to make a good chemical and mechanical bond to the next similar layers layed in from the inside in place of the wooden plug. The first layer should have plenty of resin in it to fill all voids. When it is all hard you can sand down and use a filler to get a perfect finish which hopefully is covered with antifouling paint. Providing the 2 blocks of glass and resin join well in the middle you have a patch which is locked in by larger flanges on both the outside and inside. If the outside section tends to fall out due to gravity before it hardens try holding them in with a patch of wood jambed against the hull of course covered with cling wrap or similar plastic. further layers can be added once it is hard enouigh to stay in place. Any excess can be cut away with a knife or chiseleasily when green but you can't sand until it is really hard Do the job when it is warm or use heat lamps or heaters and if you havn't used polyester resin (of course epoxy is fine but more expensive) then get a book and try some experiments first. There is not much li9kely hood of making a bad patch if it is as thick as the original skin. PS did you make any sense of the high field lever description? regards will

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[MarkV]

thanks for that, the high field lever made sence, still not sure about the running shrouds for the mast raising, I'll print it out and try to figure it out with the boat in front of me. My real problem is that the mast step is below a raised hatch and as a consiquence the mast will not hinge down flat, I need to figure out some kind of tabernackle.

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[jimboat]

Or just get some RayCrete and you won't have any problem filling the hole.
Google has lots on links on how to use RayCrete to repair or fill holes even under water.
Worked for me anyway. Pretty cool stuff and no technical mixing or application skills required.
See ya, Jim

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