Sculling anyone?

lindsay

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As a potential backup to my aging engine, I was thinking of fixing a sculling oar system that would at least get me out of a crowded Mediterranean anchorage in calm weather or into a marina.

How long should the oar (yuloh?) be? Would a standard wooden 3 metre oar from any French equipment catalogue do the job or does it need to be stronger?

28 1/2 fibreglass yacht with square transom and external rudder where it would appear to fit nicely.

There is something vaguely romantic about an old git, with tranquility and dignity, sculling his way out of a situation. And it's a lot cheaper and easier than installing a back up outboard, conventional or electric, with its own bracket.


Changing the engine is not an acceptable option due a limited future afloat due to old age.

Any experiences, first or second hand.
 

LittleSister

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I take it by sculling you mean over the stern, but in any case I imagine you will need something longer than 3m.

Traditionally (at least in the UK), working boats and yachts were moved by a 'sweep' operated over the side: a very long springy oar (typically made of ash?), used either singly or in pairs, and operated by pushing/walking the inboard end forward (suitable height and width placed rowlock/thole pin/w.h.y. and space for the operator crucial). It is said (by e.g. Maurice Griffiths) that, by this means, once the boat was moving it was not too arduous to continue for some miles, albeit at a slow (1 to 1.5 knots?) pace. That was, though,in the days when men were men . . . ;)
 

Poignard

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Here are a couple of hopefully useful links.

Collars - The Yuloh Sculling Oar

yuloh plans and experience?

The consensus seems to be that a yuloh is better for going long distance in a straight line, but an 'ordinary' sculling oar is better for manoeuvering.
Thanks for those links.

I suppose the big advantage of the yuloh over the oar for the modern yachtsman whose engine has failed (or who doesn't have one) is that with nothing sticking out of the side of his yacht, he can get her into a lock or a marina berth. But how he would get her out of a marina berth again, I don't know. (Perhaps with a stern anchor or a good shove from the many onlookers who can be guaranteed to turn up whenever there's a chance of something going wrong!)
 

lindsay

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A good point about getting out of the marina, hadn't thought about that, but then I would have had the time to cajole the engine into starting again...cold start, by putting nonengaged gear lever into reverse not forward, tapping starter motor, giving it a stern look etc etc etc.

The problem, very occasional, is probably electrical. A few qualified mechanics have spent more than several dozen hours on it over the last two years and I have had changed, or changed myself, everything they said should be changed.

Basic problem is that I have lost confidence in the engine

I like the idea of two rowlocks, port and starboard, having learnt how to row standing up from fishermen on an Italian lake at the age of ten. May be these oars could be shorter??
 

LittleSister

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I like the idea of two rowlocks, port and starboard, having learnt how to row standing up from fishermen on an Italian lake at the age of ten. May be these oars could be shorter??

As I see it, for use abeam you need a rather long sweep, or sweeps, (oars) to (a) reach the water from a yacht deck, (b) give you enough leverage on the inboard end, and (c) make your stroke in the water as parallel with the boat's path as possible, so that you (mainly) move forward rather than (mainly) spin on the boat's axis.
 

Wansworth

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As a potential backup to my aging engine, I was thinking of fixing a sculling oar system that would at least get me out of a crowded Mediterranean anchorage in calm weather or into a marina.

How long should the oar (yuloh?) be? Would a standard wooden 3 metre oar from any French equipment catalogue do the job or does it need to be stronger?

28 1/2 fibreglass yacht with square transom and external rudder where it would appear to fit nicely.

There is something vaguely romantic about an old git, with tranquility and dignity, sculling his way out of a situation. And it's a lot cheaper and easier than installing a back up outboard, conventional or electric, with its own bracket.

Had a 15 foot oar used as motive power for 26 footer thru sculling notch was right length to be in the water but useable whilst standing on deck,very elective and powerful once got going
Changing the engine is not an acceptable option due a limited future afloat due to old age.

Any experiences, first or second hand.
 

OldBawley

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I have made some row locks that fit into the jib sheet winches. Have two three meter long oars, ( multi multi multifunctional ) The boat has 26 feet waterline, but been an Bawley type and liveaboard loaded, she weighs 8 tons.

In absence of wind and current it is possible to row the boat, even at one knot. Standing and pushing the oars, the autopilot steering. It is just a toy really, very hard work, blisters after half an hour, then I stop playing.

Against any wind or waves it is not possible to make progress, the boat is just to heavy. But then one can sail.

Some years ago I got rid of the second oar, had not used it in years, so I cut it in pieces and burned it in our wood burning stove. Rowing with one oar is possible, we have a very big long keel and I can put the autopilot to steer while I row.

We were once stopped by a Turkish coastguard dingy, rowing out of a windless bay. I just had to do 50 more yards to have a little wind blowing from around the corner, so refused to stop rowing which they did not like. Once we started making very slow way under sail, I took their painter and towed them along at two knots. They did not like this either, wanted me to stop. I said our brake was broken and showed my papers. All well.

Just some years before that all Turkish fishing boats had oars and used them. However, a captan with a mind of his own was unknown to those young kids in coast guard uniform.


P1060399 - Kopie - Kopie.JPG
 

lindsay

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That sums it up very nicely. Thanks Oldbawley. Think I will try out a rowlock fixed to jib sheet winch, and one oar, and see how it goes. Great photo!
 

OldBawley

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My 23 years ago build rudder needs some work. Rudder is transom hanged, I can remove it while the boat is in the water. I intend to anchor in a spot that I know is bullet proof, remove the rudder and start the repair. Depending on how the repair is going we could be without a rudder for some time.

In case of a severe storm coming from North I would like to move the boat to the North (windward) side of the inland Poros sea so today I tried sailing the boat using our 3 meter long oar over the stern to steer.

Build a temporary rowlock on the stern out of a piece of flotsam wood, fixed that using a wooden wedge and some ropes. So this evening when the sea breeze turned I pulled up the anchor and sailed from behind Daskalio island to Galatas on the other side of the inland sea lake. Using just the furling jib on the bowsprit and the lug yawl sail all went well. For real steering the ( big ) blade of the oar is not big enough despite the good balance of the sails. By rowing the stern to one side I can point the boat in the good direction, very hard work but for a short trip doable.

I did not try how the steering works under engine, must be almost the same as long as the wind is not to strong.

My temporary rowlock broke, I had not anticipated the side rowing, not thought so much movement of the oar was necessary.

Still, a nice try, will make better rowlock and be ready to move if necessary.
 

ASW11

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I, for one, will be interested in reading how it goes and, if possible, learning more about the rowlock eg spec and photo. Any chance?
 

OldBawley

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My wife made a little video of the oar steering sail.

I can pm You a link if interested.

I have a cast iron rowlock on the stern of our sailing dinghy. I could have used that one but the fixing of the rowlock would create wholes in my Coelan paint so I tried something else.

I am used of sailing from the anchor behind little Daskalio island, passing the reef and then sailing and anchoring elsewhere, a benefit when moving the boat without rudder.

Here the rudder was still there, I just did not use it.

Learned a lot. First, the towing line for the dinghy was a huge pain in the ***. Next time tow from starboard. Then, the spinnaker pole of the jib must be ready to use, this time the lug yawl sail blocked most of the wind for the Jib so creating a weather helm. Balancing the rig is very important.

Learned also that with strong wind under engine it would be impossible to steer the bow into the wind. Our boat has most windage ( and no keel ) under the bowsprit and needs a lot of horsepower to turn into the wind.

Low wind conditions no problem. Take the rev´s of, point the boat by rowing the stern and off you go.
 

lindsay

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Ultimate simplicity? No engine and no sails and one oar

See this video on a "75 year old japanese man boat journey"


Can someone tecchie analyze his system?
 

stevie69p

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There's a guy posts videos on YouTube... Kevin Boothby - has a gaff rigged yacht with no engine and he uses a sculling oar to manoeuvre with. IIRC it is 14 feet long (the oar). Has a rowlock fitted at the stern just off centre.
 
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