Sanding my Teak Decks, Advice, Hints, Tips, Photo's

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Orla

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www.yachtorla.com
I've taken Orla out of the water for a year to do some essential work that I couldn't while living on her, she is now indoors (a very big shed).

The biggest job I want to get done is the teak decks now 32years old and between 10mm & 15mm thick.

I have started the sanding and its starting to look really good, many of the screws are starting to show through and the caulk groove has been sanded out in a few areas.
I think the sanding part although time consuming is pretty easy to do.
Should I remove all plugs and screws even if the plug still looks good, and is there a sure fired way of removing the plugs without damaging the surrounding teak?
The bit that worries me the most is re-cutting the caulk grooves, I think this will take a very long time. Any advice on the most efficient way of achieving this?
Again if the caulk still looks good in some areas am I still better removing it. I have a Fein tool for this and it does a good job of removing the old caulk.

View attachment 48639View attachment 48640View attachment 48641View attachment 48642

I am aware that a router is probably the way forward with a guide plank, also heard someone did it with a suitably thick circular saw. A local professional suggested that it could be done with a router free hand, I have my doubts.
I guess the areas that rise up to the hatches will have to be dug out with chisels.
Any advice or thoughts....

Many Thanks

Dougie
 
Thanks for the link, interesting that he doesn't recommend a router. Instead a small circular saw (skill saw), I have heard this before.
I guess its easier to keep them in a straight line.
 
I'd be very cautious about trying to deepen grooves freehand - the eye can detect tiny variances and it won't look right. A router, suitably guided, will give an even parallel groove.

For plugs which look OK, leave them. Ones which pop out need the screw removing and the hole deepening (a Forstner bit is great for this).

As for sanding, be very gentle, it's easy to overdo it. I "refreshed" the teak decks on my HR a couple of times, and it's hard work but looks great afterwards.

The Yandina link is a bit odd, but maybe just old - do people mix caulking with hardener these days?
 
pvb said:
I'd be very cautious about trying to deepen grooves freehand - the eye can detect tiny variances and it won't look right. A router, suitably guided, will give an even parallel groove.

For plugs which look OK, leave them. Ones which pop out need the screw removing and the hole deepening (a Forstner bit is great for this).

As for sanding, be very gentle, it's easy to overdo it. I "refreshed" the teak decks on my HR a couple of times, and it's hard work but looks great afterwards.

The Yandina link is a bit odd, but maybe just old - do people mix caulking with hardener these days?
Click to expand...


Thanks, I tend to agree about the plugs, they would be easy to change out at a later date if they are seen to be holding moisture.

I came across Dremel DSM20, which may be the answer if they supply 5mm thick cutting discs, looks very controllable on the you tube demo's, anyone tried one?

I reckon I have about 4 or 5 more days of sanding to do before I start replacing the exposed screws and removing the old caulk, I'll be getting a Forstner bit I think.

Thanks for the advice
 
pvb said:
As you'll need to sand after recaulking, are you sure you're doing it in the right order?
Click to expand...

I was planning on masking the decks prior to caulking, then remove as much of the excess caulk with the Fein blade, I've used this already to remove the old caulking that was exposed, does a very good job, then finish of with a very light sand..
 
Thanks, she's not perfect, but is in very good condition.

Robert Perry knows how to build boats, the Lafitte 44 was his 100th design his 99th design was the Hans Christian. The Lafitte 44 (actual length 46 though we don't tell marinas that) was initially going to be the Hans Christian 46.
A few pictures and a couple of videos on www.yachtorla.com

Dougie
 
LordMacDonald said:
is there a sure fired way of removing the plugs without damaging the surrounding teak?
Click to expand...

Centre-drill the plug, then screw in a suitable sized wood screw. With luck, it should draw out the plug like a puller. Even if it doesn't, it will usually split the plug to the extent that it can easily be removed without damaging the surrounding teak.
 
LordMacDonald said:
Thanks, I tend to agree about the plugs, they would be easy to change out at a later date if they are seen to be holding moisture.

I came across Dremel DSM20, which may be the answer if they supply 5mm thick cutting discs, looks very controllable on the you tube demo's, anyone tried one?

I reckon I have about 4 or 5 more days of sanding to do before I start replacing the exposed screws and removing the old caulk, I'll be getting a Forstner bit I think.

Thanks for the advice
Click to expand...

HR Parts do low head profile screws for deck refurbishment. http://www.hr-parts.com/contents/en-us/p1229.html

Avoids/reduces over drilling the holes. They are probably available elsewhere.
 
You've preempted one of my next questions, the screws I'm removing are stainless countersunk Philips type.
The ones on the HR site look a far better replacement.
Thanks for that

Dougie
 
macd said:
Centre-drill the plug, then screw in a suitable sized wood screw. With luck, it should draw out the plug like a puller. Even if it doesn't, it will usually split the plug to the extent that it can easily be removed without damaging the surrounding teak.
Click to expand...

I´d be wary trying to break the bond by pulling the plug.
I use a thin chisel (3mm) to first take out the centre of the plug. Then by pushing on the remaining "walls" make it collapse.
 
I've used the HR screws, and they do have a very low-profile head which is flat, maximising the depth of teak plug in the hole.
 
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